On top of some stamping that I want to try out i might consider trying out some cherry bombs on putters/wedges and I feel like it could just be done with a drill press but I don't wanna risk it.
These pics, courtesy of gafooseball and the pimped out clubs thread, show what I'm going for.
Share your ideas...

Mike

The problem with doing this is that weight will be removed from the putter. The OTRs, unless stated otherwise, are 330g and making a tour dot is just going to remove weight that the putter really needs. The reason for Cameron doing this on his tour putters is to move weight aroung so that he can make sure the sweet spot is in the center of the putter. There is a purpose to this practice and it really is not entirely cosmetic. Applying a tour dot or cherry dot on an OTR is only for cosmetics and I personally would rather have the additional weight instead of a vanity dot. Just my 2 cents.

A drill press works fine. If you're doing it for cosmetic reasons, it won't remove more than a couple of grams. I suggest a cobalt drill bit and use the drill press at the lowest speed possible.

Depending upon the finish, you could crack it as well. Also you have to watch out for rusting. As stated earlier, it won't take much weight off but, it will take off weight. Probably practice on some worthless heads first.

You need to do this with a milling machine and only a milling machine. Have slighter do it or Hot Stix Golf

Why adulterate any club with a b/s tour dot?

IMO, an aftermarket site dot will result in a much lower resale value, at least this is what I see in sales for putters with these.

I have noticed it more on ebay these days on wedges than anything else. Sorry, if a 2 MM deep dent in a club changed the center of gravity like some of the junk I have seen on there---then may as well just beat your clubs up in a parking lot lol

Here is a real ported wedge. It's factory- the holes are wide, and deep.

The putter with the hole out on the toe.... no idea on that one.

I believe the purpose of this was to raise the COG producing a lower standard shot trajectory.

I'm takin' some abuse for bringing up this topic but I guess that's what I asked for. I understand some people wouldn't do this to their clubs but I want to and I'm not looking to take a drill to my camerons or anything, I just wanted to know how people are putting some of these dots on wedges and putters. I don't care about weight or screwing with the value or anything, I just want to make some old clubs look cool. Sorry if you don't think it's a good idea, I was just looking for some help/recommendations.

You won't get the big Tiger dots but you will get the older tour dot look. You can do so with a drill press as mentioned. Tiger dots are milled. Plated finishes will chip and crack. If you want, try taping off the area with a masking tape. That might help with the cracking. Your putter...you are free to do whatever you would like with it.

No abuse given. To each their own I say.

However, if a person does this and then tries to pass it off as a Tour Cameron that Scotty or the Studio did then that is a different story. I know this is not what you, or your friend, is doing. People can do what they want to their own putters. I have made adjustments to wedges and irons I have owned, custom grinding of soles. I have never modified a single putter I own probably for two reasons.

1) Because I have no idea how to grind a putter for any performance benefit.
2) I could care less about tour dots, stamps, letters, etc. I am not into mimicking stampings or drilled/milled dots.

That is just me. If people want to do that and as long as the putter is never sold as a "tour" or "custom" putter by the putter manufacturer then I really have no problem.

Dots on Camerons (that were not done aftermarket) are flat bottomed (the ones I've seen, anyway). These have to be done with an end mill (2 flute I would assume) with the putter clamped solidly in a vise on a milling machine. Putting an end mill in a drill press chuck (or any chuck) would be a no-no. These dots tend to be very shallow and would remove virtually no weight.

Dots that are done aftermarket tend to be angled bottomed. These were done with a drill bit (118* angle is standard). The locations would be center-punched and it could be done in a drill press or a mill if precise depth is important. These dots tend to be deeper due to the tapered bottom and this would remove a little bit more weight.

Correct.... it is.

Now the Faxon I can see. But compare these 2. You can tell one is for decoration- one is for function.

I would do whatever makes you happy. I remember seeing one of Couples Cleveland wedges he drilled a two cavities in to make it a bit lighter. I have owned ported and non ported wedges and really couldn't tell any difference in performance..

Now you could purchase a end mill bit and put it in a drill press to get a flat bottomed dot.

I guess so. Since all the load is up and down (not lateral) it should be OK. A plunging end mill exerts a lot more force than a drill bit does. If the plunge is only .015"-.02", and the end mill is 3/8" or smaller, an end mill in a drill chuck would probably be OK. Doing that in stainless would make me nervous though.

Thanks for the input I figured this would be a option to throw out there since he mentioned that a drill press available. however one thing I forgot to mention was if you are going to go this route make sure that you use some cutting oil and also make sure that the head is clamped in a vise.