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The Quest for 300: It Starts with Your Clubs (Part 3)

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So far in this series I have discussed the prerequisites for hitting a true 300-yard drive. This means hitting it 300-plus yards without the aid of wind, elevation, a sprinkler head or a cartpath.

It is true that only a small segment of golfers who read this are capable of this feat. Heck, many golfers would love to hit their drivers 250 yards once in a while. I understand the struggles of those golfers, and aim to help every one of them hit their drivers as far as they can, even it that distance is much less than 300 yards.

One of the most talked about aspects of driving a golf ball long and straight is the club that is used. Since this article is published on GolfWRX, I feel very confident assuming that my readers are using drivers that are six years old or less. If you are playing something older than this, consider upgrading, because you’re really missing out on forgiveness.

Click here to read other articles written by Steve Pratt.

To maximize performance, a golfer needs a driver that fits their swing, not just an expensive or flashy one. It needs to create the correct launch and spin to have a landing angle between 36 and 39 degrees. If golfers see their tee shots “climb” in the air, and their shots don’t roll much when they land on a firm fairway, they probably have a landing angle of more than 45 degrees. If they hit low line drives, they likely have a landing angle under 30.

There are infinite combination of launch angles and spin rates that will produce the correct landing angle for a golfer’s course conditions. For example, golfers who play in the desert might get more total yards out of drives with a lower landing angle, while golfers who play in softer conditions might get more distance from drives that carry farther. The ideal launch, spin and landing angle will also vary by a golfer’s club head speed and angle of attack.

Let me give an example of wildly different launch and spin numbers that will produce an optimal landing angle. Some golfers might launch their drives at 6 degrees with 3600 rpms of backspin with a landing angle of 38 degrees. They might get similar results by launching their drivers at 16 degrees with 2200 rpms of backspin. It is a delicate balance, but the distance golfers gain from finding the ideal launch, spin and landing angle will be well worth it. For the golfers who I have fitted, the average gain has been 33 yards.

Here are a couple of tips to help you find the right driver for your swing:

  • The loft stated on the bottom of the club can be misleading. Head design and shaft can change the actual spin loft of that driver by several degrees. Just because you’re a 9.5 in one brand doesn’t mean you will be in another brand — or next year’s model from the same brand.
  • Shaft choice can affect ball flight by affecting the overall spin loft of the club. This is why the “bend profile” and “tip stiffness” of a shaft can be so important. Knowing “cpms” may also come in handy, considering that a stiff shaft in one major brand can differ significantly from another.
  • A golfer’s angle of attack (AoA) will profoundly affect what driver will work best for them, so it is integral that they knows what their AoA is. Keep in mind that AoA does not affect spin rate. Trackman has discovered scientifically (and in practice) that hitting down by itself does not cause an increase in backspin.
  • User error will trump equipment changes by a large margin. Unless a golfer is a really good player (2 handicap or less), they will not see a meaningful differences in spin or ball flight by making small changes in shafts or heads. They’ve got to compare apples to apples, and the average golfer hits a lot of oranges. Even small mishits will result in gear effects that will easily overcome a minor change in equipment.

For example, I’ve seen golfers go from 4000 rpms of spin to 2000 in a half hour without changing gear. They merely worked to hit the ball more solidly and squarely. It would be very difficult to simply change gear and get this much change, and much more expensive too!

While technique plays the biggest role in the efficiency of ball flight, a poorly fit driver can cost golfers as much as 60 yards. If golfers can understand what optimal ball flight looks like and decode what the target audience of a particular driver head or shaft is, they will be on their way to adding free distance off the tee. Their best bet is get on a FlightScope or Trackman with an experienced fitter and learn what they can do to hit it farther.

Coming next: I will talk about a simple training routine that can steadily increase your club head speed so that you can realize your distance goals.

The Quest For 300: How To Bomb Your Driver (Part 1)

The Quest For 300: How To Bomb Your Driver (Part 2)

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Steve Pratt teaches full-time at Lindero Country Club in Southern California using Trackman technology. Steve teaches the Mike Austin method of swinging which, using Kinesiology, unlocks the maximum power and accuracy possible from the human body. Steve's clients include many professional long drivers who routinely hit the ball over 400 yards. You can find Steve on the web at www.hititlonger.com, and @hititlonger on Twitter.com.

15 Comments

15 Comments

  1. Steve Pratt

    May 16, 2013 at 5:17 pm

    @tmk – For 115 mph I like 2000-2300 spin a lot more than 1500. Even at 14 degrees launch I doubt that the ball is hanging up long enough. Can you share what you’re hitting to get that low spin?

    You may have overshot the mark here a bit. The penalty would be not being able to carry bunkers or doglegs on command, which is two advantages a long hit can gain. Of course, the built in hazard of going from, say a 9.0 to a 7.5 is the slight extra curve on a face error.

    • tmk

      May 20, 2013 at 12:48 pm

      Thanks Steve. The club I was fitted for that brought my spin down that low is an Adams speedline super LS in an 8.5 degree loft. Loved it on the launch monitor as it was getting me about 15 extra yards. But your prediction was correct. I was able to demo before buying, and, on the course this weekend, in soft conditions, the Adams generally was not quite as long as my gamer (Ping Rapture V2 with Fuji Rombax 6w06, x flex). Now, I’m at a total loss. Maybe just stick with my current gamer.

  2. tmk

    May 16, 2013 at 10:54 am

    Great article Steve. Quick question — I have a 115 swing speed and recently was fitted to a very low spinning head (slightly lower loft as well). With just this change, my spin dropped from 3000 to 1500. LA is around 14 degrees. All this seems good as I know I’ll get more distance on solid hits. However, I’m sure there is going to be some downside as well. Will I have less control in general? Will mis-hits be penalized more severely? Thanks in advance.

  3. Steve Pratt

    May 15, 2013 at 9:01 pm

    Hey Andy!

    A full set of data makes it really easy to give feedback.

    You would ideally want to launch it higher and land it steeper. You could either add loft, keeping the same swing…or you could change the swing direction from -4.8 to +4.8 by swinging significantly more to the right. This will dramatically increase your AoA and launch automatically.

    Of course the kicker is that you will have to square the face to the new path and not leave it open. Overall it appears you are losing about 15-16 yards here.

    • Andy

      May 17, 2013 at 4:14 am

      I’m continually working on getting more from the inside, but this has always been a weak point. I come from a steep swing that was from the outside with a big cast. Now (years later) that’s gone, but when I haven’t played for a while I slip back into that weak cast a little from the outside. The data above shows this clearly.

      Having hardly played in Jan-April (terrible winter here in the UK) it’s as bad as it gets right now and will improve over the summer as I get into comps, training and much more practice.

      But I need to get the swing speed up a LOT if I’m going to get the ball further out there. Right now 98 is an average with my best peaking at 101 / 102.

      I will definitely up the loft on the driver during the winter / wet conditions. But in the summer I’m going to be enjoying watching that ball roll out. 🙂

  4. Andy

    May 15, 2013 at 5:16 am

    Hi again Steve. Still enjoying the articles and especially looking forward to part-4.

    Looking at the Trackman data from the fitting session at TaylorMade Wentworth recently… Landing angle averaged at 32.5 (lowest 31.7, highest 35). Averaging 231 carry + 30 roll.

    I have regular sessions with my PGA Pro and suspect that extra strength / fitness is the key to raising club speed and therefore distance. I doubt that there are any easy fixes.

    Below is my Trackman data for the R1 TP driver with Rul 60 shaft.

    Att Ang — -1.8
    Club Path — -3.1
    Face to Path — 2.1
    Club Speed — 98.7
    Ball Speed — 146
    Launch Angle — 11.2
    Spin — 2553
    Carry — 231.6
    Total — 261.7
    Land Angle — 32.5
    Smash — 1.48
    Spin Ax — 5.3
    Spin Loft — 15.1
    Face Ang — -0.9
    Dyn Loft — 13
    Swing Dir — -4.8

    • Andy

      May 15, 2013 at 5:37 am

      It’s also worth adding that this data was taken with range balls. Although they were 100% compression the fitter stated there would be a small performance loss (up to 5%) over a premium ball.

      Weather was around 9 degrees Celsius and fairly calm. It didn’t rain during the fitting, but had done so earlier. I’m guessing they set the TrackMan to “concrete” ground settings to make you look better – lol.

      The driver was set to 10deg loft, draw bias (10g in the heel -1 in toe), face alignment left as standard.

  5. G

    May 13, 2013 at 1:15 pm

    You’re not helping manufacturers sell more gear if you’re telling people they can improve their spin rate just by changing their swing in a half-hour session!

    • Andy

      May 15, 2013 at 4:26 am

      We all know that working on our swing is far more important than any equipment. But that fact will never stop us buying more equipment anyway 🙂

  6. Steve Pratt

    May 13, 2013 at 12:55 pm

    @Niles – Yes chances are pretty good that you can pick up 25 or 30+ yards. From your information I would guess that you have high clubhead speed and a fairly severe negative AoA on the driver (-5 or more). It also sounds like your driver probably fits your current swing pretty well…if the smaller devices can be trusted.

    It would take some adjustments to your swing, but you would probably end up hitting your 3 wood as far as your driver.

    Your first step could be to check out the Trackman locator on their site, or just google it.

  7. Niles

    May 13, 2013 at 11:18 am

    I am a +1 and have a low launch angle (6 degrees or so and create 3300 rpms or so) I’ve never been on a Trackman rather smaller devices at demo days and simulators. I am as long or longer than most people I play with in competitive state and USGA events. I am often told I should hit it further than I do. I am located in Iowa and would love an accurate driver fitting. What are options in central Iowa?? Thanks!

  8. Steve Pratt

    May 13, 2013 at 3:25 am

    Trackman has shown conclusively that AoA has virtually no effect on spin rate. This is because the spin loft stays the same, no matter what the AoA is. You only change dynamic loft and launch angle by hitting down.

    • Tony Wright

      May 13, 2013 at 11:43 pm

      Thanks for the reply Steve. So you are saying, as an example – say I am using a 9 degree loft driver, if I hit a drive with a -3 degree AofA and then another with a +3 AofA that the spin rates of the two shots will be the same? Or am I missing something here. Thanks again.

  9. Tony Wright

    May 12, 2013 at 11:40 pm

    I am enjoying this series of articles thanks Steve. I do have a question. You say AofA does not affect spin rate. That has not been my experience. Can you elaborate with details on why you said that thank you.

  10. nick

    May 12, 2013 at 12:15 pm

    very beneficial info regarding multiple options to achieve landing angle.

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Instruction

The Wedge Guy: The easiest-to-learn golf basic

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My golf learning began with this simple fact – if you don’t have a fundamentally sound hold on the golf club, it is practically impossible for your body to execute a fundamentally sound golf swing. I’m still a big believer that the golf swing is much easier to execute if you begin with the proper hold on the club.

As you might imagine, I come into contact with hundreds of golfers of all skill levels. And it is very rare to see a good player with a bad hold on the golf club. There are some exceptions, for sure, but they are very few and very far between, and they typically have beat so many balls with their poor grip that they’ve found a way to work around it.

The reality of biophysics is that the body moves only in certain ways – and the particulars of the way you hold the golf club can totally prevent a sound swing motion that allows the club to release properly through the impact zone. The wonderful thing is that anyone can learn how to put a fundamentally sound hold on the golf club, and you can practice it anywhere your hands are not otherwise engaged, like watching TV or just sitting and relaxing.

Whether you prefer an overlap, interlock or full-finger (not baseball!) grip on the club, the same fundamentals apply.  Here are the major grip faults I see most often, in the order of the frequency:

Mis-aligned hands

By this I mean that the palms of the two hands are not parallel to each other. Too many golfers have a weak left hand and strong right, or vice versa. The easiest way to learn how to hold the club with your palms aligned properly is to grip a plain wooden ruler or yardstick. It forces the hands to align properly and shows you how that feels. If you grip and re-grip a yardstick several times, then grip a club, you’ll see that the learning curve is almost immediate.

The position of the grip in the upper/left hand

I also observe many golfers who have the butt of the grip too far into the heel pad of the upper hand (the left hand for right-handed players). It’s amazing how much easier it is to release the club through the ball if even 1/4-1/2″ of the butt is beyond the left heel pad. Try this yourself to see what I mean.  Swing the club freely with just your left hand and notice the difference in its release from when you hold it at the end of the grip, versus gripping down even a half inch.

To help you really understand how this works, go to the range and hit shots with your five-iron gripped down a full inch to make the club the same length as your seven-iron. You will probably see an amazing shot shape difference, and likely not see as much distance loss as you would expect.

Too much lower (right) hand on the club

It seems like almost all golfers of 8-10 handicap or higher have the club too far into the palm of the lower hand, because that feels “good” if you are trying to control the path of the clubhead to the ball. But the golf swing is not an effort to hit at the ball – it is a swing of the club. The proper hold on the club has the grip underneath the pad at the base of the fingers. This will likely feel “weak” to you — like you cannot control the club like that. EXACTLY. You should not be trying to control the club with your lower/master hand.

Gripping too tightly

Nearly all golfers hold the club too tightly, which tenses up the forearms and prevents a proper release of the club through impact. In order for the club to move back and through properly, you must feel that the club is controlled by the last three fingers of the upper hand, and the middle two fingers of the lower hand. If you engage your thumbs and forefingers in “holding” the club, the result will almost always be a grip that is too tight. Try this for yourself. Hold the club in your upper hand only, and squeeze firmly with just the last three fingers, with the forefinger and thumb off the club entirely. You have good control, but your forearms are not tense. Then begin to squeeze down with your thumb and forefinger and observe the tensing of the entire forearm. This is the way we are made, so the key to preventing tenseness in the arms is to hold the club very lightly with the “pinchers” — the thumbs and forefingers.

So, those are what I believe are the four fundamentals of a good grip. Anyone can learn them in their home or office very quickly. There is no easier way to improve your ball striking consistency and add distance than giving more attention to the way you hold the golf club.

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Clement: Stop ripping off your swing with this drill!

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Not the dreaded headcover under the armpit drill! As if your body is defective and can’t function by itself! Have you seen how incredible the human machine is with all the incredible feats of agility all kinds of athletes are accomplishing? You think your body is so defective (the good Lord is laughing his head off at you) that it needs a headcover tucked under the armpit so you can swing like T-Rex?

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How a towel can fix your golf swing

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This is a classic drill that has been used for decades. However, the world of marketed training aids has grown so much during that time that this simple practice has been virtually forgotten. Because why teach people how to play golf using everyday items when you can create and sell a product that reinforces the same thing? Nevertheless, I am here to give you helpful advice without running to the nearest Edwin Watts or adding something to your Amazon cart.

For the “scoring clubs,” having a solid connection between the arms and body during the swing, especially through impact, is paramount to creating long-lasting consistency. And keeping that connection throughout the swing helps rotate the shoulders more to generate more power to help you hit it farther. So, how does this drill work, and what will your game benefit from it? Well, let’s get into it.

Setup

You can use this for basic chip shots up to complete swings. I use this with every club in my bag, up to a 9 or 8-iron. It’s natural to create incrementally more separation between the arms and body as you progress up the set. So doing this with a high iron or a wood is not recommended.

While you set up to hit a ball, simply tuck the towel underneath both armpits. The length of the towel will determine how tight it will be across your chest but don’t make it so loose that it gets in the way of your vision. After both sides are tucked, make some focused swings, keeping both arms firmly connected to the body during the backswing and follow through. (Note: It’s normal to lose connection on your lead arm during your finishing pose.) When you’re ready, put a ball in the way of those swings and get to work.

Get a Better Shoulder Turn

Many of us struggle to have proper shoulder rotation in our golf swing, especially during long layoffs. Making a swing that is all arms and no shoulders is a surefire way to have less control with wedges and less distance with full swings. Notice how I can get in a similar-looking position in both 60° wedge photos. However, one is weak and uncontrollable, while the other is strong and connected. One allows me to use my larger muscles to create my swing, and one doesn’t. The follow-through is another critical point where having a good connection, as well as solid shoulder rotation, is a must. This drill is great for those who tend to have a “chicken wing” form in their lead arm, which happens when it becomes separated from the body through impact.

In full swings, getting your shoulders to rotate in your golf swing is a great way to reinforce proper weight distribution. If your swing is all arms, it’s much harder to get your weight to naturally shift to the inside part of your trail foot in the backswing. Sure, you could make the mistake of “sliding” to get weight on your back foot, but that doesn’t fix the issue. You must turn into your trial leg to generate power. Additionally, look at the difference in separation between my hands and my head in the 8-iron examples. The green picture has more separation and has my hands lower. This will help me lessen my angle of attack and make it easier to hit the inside part of the golf ball, rather than the over-the-top move that the other picture produces.

Stay Better Connected in the Backswing

When you don’t keep everything in your upper body working as one, getting to a good spot at the top of your swing is very hard to do. It would take impeccable timing along with great hand-eye coordination to hit quality shots with any sort of regularity if the arms are working separately from the body.

Notice in the red pictures of both my 60-degree wedge and 8-iron how high my hands are and the fact you can clearly see my shoulder through the gap in my arms. That has happened because the right arm, just above my elbow, has become totally disconnected from my body. That separation causes me to lift my hands as well as lose some of the extension in my left arm. This has been corrected in the green pictures by using this drill to reinforce that connection. It will also make you focus on keeping the lead arm close to your body as well. Because the moment either one loses that relationship, the towel falls.

Conclusion

I have been diligent this year in finding a few drills that target some of the issues that plague my golf game; either by simply forgetting fundamental things or by coming to terms with the faults that have bitten me my whole career. I have found that having a few drills to fall back on to reinforce certain feelings helps me find my game a little easier, and the “towel drill” is most definitely one of them.

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