Connect with us

Equipment

Callaway X Forged Editor Review

Published

on

EditorsChoice_13For golfers who don’t want to play a blade but also can’t bare to look down at a shovel GI iron, we have a option that impressed the editors at GolfWRX. Callaway X Forged cavity back irons for 2013 have some cool technology and the looks and feel of a forged muscle back iron.

Callaway X Forged are some sweet players irons. We are excited to have them in play. As we said in the original article about these heads: What’s better than a forged muscleback iron at address? Nothing, except maybe an iron that looks the same, plays the same and has more forgiveness. That is what we have found here with these new-for-2013 X Forged. Looks and feels like a MB but has he forgiveness of a cavity back.

Pros: Killer looks and soft buttery feel. We were suprised that a cavity back as large as the X Forged could produce such a great feel. Also the sole design has more bounce than many modern forged irons today. Roger Cleveland and the Callaway designers like to add a lot of bounce to their irons and wedges. Performance is also very good. Long irons were high and the shorter irons were flatter.

Cons: We wish there were no badges in the cavity. Callaway added two small badges that we thought at first were part of the forgings until we looked harder.

Bottom Line: Looking for a players iron that looks great, has a forged pure feel and performs as good as you can get forged iron to perform? This is one on a very short list we recommend for you launching this year. Performance packed into a great design.

Looks and Feel

The chrome finish on these irons looks fantastic. The cavity with two small badges and the face are both in a satin chrome. Combination of the shiny chrome and the satin cavity make these irons look great. You will also notice tightly spaced grooves that Callaway has been using since the groove rule regulated the size of the groove. Callaway began to space the groove tighter to allow the players to be more aggressive in shot shaping.

callaway x-forged 2013

Aesthetically, the 2013 X Forged look more like Callaway’s musclebacks as well. They have a shorter blade length than the RAZR X Forged, but it’s not quite as short as the musclebacks. The 2013 X Forged irons also lose the high heel and sharp toe that gave the RAZR X Forged a polarizing appearance, opting for a face profile closer to the musclebacks.

“Pretty much every player that puts the muscle back iron down like the way it looks,” Williams said.

The heel to toe is compact to help move players that are used to using muscle backs into these cavity backs. We learned that Callaway has attempted to create a PGA Tour-inspired forged cavity back designed by Roger Cleveland that offers cleaner looks and better performance than its predecessor, the Callaway RAZR X Forged.

callaway x forgedcallaway x forged 2013
callaway forged iron x forged

All you will have to do is demo this set to understand why we rated it so high for feel. During testing we compared the X Forged to Mizuno’s MP-64, Epon’s 302, Scratch Golf’s irons, Miura’s 501 and also the current cast offerings on the market. We will not say they felt any softer than the Mizuno MP-64’s, but we can say they are comparable. Don’t believe what we are saying? Go and see for yourself and demo a set.

There was a “black and white” difference between these and the cast offerings. Cast gave us a click sound vs. a thud and also the cast was not as sensitive to provide feedback as these forgings were. The solid feel at impact left you with a clear understanding why some golfers prefer to play forged. The forgings will provide you a clear report with the slightest hit off the sweetspot. An instant report card about the hit.

We believe that the small pocket badges in the cavity helped offset the reduced mass behind the sweetspot to allow a softer feel. More mass behind the sweetspot typically translates to a softer feel at impact. Callaway has for years used different polymers in the badge construction to optimize the “feel” and “sound” of an iron. Callaway does this typically in cast offerings. So when you see them appear in these higher end forged CB’s we chatter around the water cooler that this was an effort to make them feel even better. Possibly to tune them to satisfy the very picky Tour players that can feel the most minor differences.

Performance

What we saw in testing on Flightscope was very predicable distance control as well as some great trajectory numbers. Long irons were going higher and the shorter irons were flighting lower. Spin numbers were average and on the higher long irons we were seeing some great numbers that suggested they dialed the designs in right and with purpose.

According to Williams, Callaway’s recent musclebacks have been a hit because of what the company is calling CG Height progression. CG (center of gravity) Height Progression puts the center of gravity lower in the long irons for the higher trajectory that Tour pros want. It also places the CG higher in the short irons for a flatter trajectory. Callaway’s previous forged cavity back irons, the RAZR X Forged, had the opposite CG progression. The center of gravity was actually the lowest in the short irons.

Callaway also got feedback from Tour pros that the RAZR X Forged irons had a tendency to dig through impact, while the muscleback irons went more smoothly through the turf. So the new X Forged were designed to have what Williams called “a slightly wider muscleback sole.”

Here is a photo of the new Callaway X Forged on the left and last years RAZR X Forged on the right.

x forged vs razr forged

This is part of the review that is more objective for us. GolfWRX like to make sure to blend in facts and objectivity to our editorial reviews.

That is why we are trying to distance ourselves from very subjective criteria. Callaway designed a very forgiving sole design here. The bounce on the irons are more than a typical set you will see in this category. This isn’t new for Roger Cleveland and the design crew at Callaway. Here is a picture of the generous bounce on the Callaway X Forged 7 iron:

x forged sole

As an example, the bounce on the Callaway X Forged starts in the 3-iron at 3 degrees and increases by a degree for every club ending at 10 degrees for the PW. Compared to the Mizuno MP-64 bounce progression starting at 2 degrees for the 3-iron and ends at 6 degrees for the PW. That doesn’t sound like a lot but four degrees of added bounce or a difference from 6 degrees and 10 degrees for the X Forged on the PW is a lot. So much you will have to consider that when you buy the gap and sand wedge to match the set.

The X Forged irons go farther than the RAZR X irons as well. They do so, according to Williams, for two reasons:

  1. The clubs have one degree stronger lofts (20-degree 3 iron, 46-degree pitching wedge)
  2. CG height progression

Despite what many believe about modern iron design, the lofts were not strengthened simply to make the ball go farther. Stronger lofts are a result of Tour feedback. Williams said that Callaway had set the lofts on its Tour irons based on Tour trends. And it’s vital for Callaway to follow the loft trends on Tour, since changing the loft of an iron also reduces the bounce on an iron, which can lead to digging. Bending an iron one-degree strong won’t change a iron’s response to the turf that much, but bending a club stronger than that can certainly change things.

“We really design a forged iron product like the X Forged for the Tour,” Williams said. “But we know if we get them right, they will work for amateurs as well.”

CG Height Progression makes the X Forged long irons go farther because since they’re launching higher, they’re also carrying farther. It also makes the short irons go farther thanks to a more piercing trajectory.

Williams expects that the X Forged will become Callaway’s most popular iron on Tour, knocking some muscleback irons out of the bags of Callaway staff players.

Luke Williams, senior director of global woods and irons for Callaway, said the most popular irons on the PGA Tour and European Tour right now for the company are not its forged cavity backs. It’s the company’s muscleback offerings — last year’s RAZR X Muscleback irons and its predecessor, the Tour Authentic X-Prototype irons — that Callaway Tour players are trusting in their bags.

Jim Furyk one of the most particular equipment aficionado’s on Tour, switched to the new Callaway X Forged cavity back. Furyk has a history of playing what works the best for him even if it means playing manufactures other than his sponsor. Luke List, Branden Grace and now it looks like Furyk made the switch to the new X Forged cb’s. Here is a photos of Jim Furyk testing the clubs in March at the WGC:

furyk witb

Here is Branden Grace WITB photo. You can see a full gallery by CLICKING HERE.

branden grace

The reason is not necessarily that Tour players don’t need the added size and forgiveness of a forged cavity back, either. Yes, one of the reasons musclebacks are more popular with Tour players than forged cavity back irons is because of their clean looks. But there are also performance reasons.

Golfers looking for a Tour-quality ball flight will also be happy to learn that the new X Forged irons come stock with a Project X PXi shaft, a lighter weight model of the popular Project X shaft with similar flight characteristics.

“We felt that PXi was the best fit, given the trend of going lighter with iron shafts,” Williams said. “Players are recognizing the value of lighter shafts if [those shafts] can maintain the consistency.”

The 2013 Callaway X Forged irons will retail for $999.99 per set. Here are additional specs:

Screen Shot 2013-03-10 at 6.37.12 PM

Click here for more discussion in the “Tour/Pre-release equipment” forum. 

Below are images and comparison pics of this year’s X Forged and last year’s RAZR Forged irons.

Your Reaction?
  • 89
  • LEGIT10
  • WOW7
  • LOL16
  • IDHT2
  • FLOP2
  • OB2
  • SHANK2

GolfWRX is the world's largest and best online golf community. Expert editorial reviews, breaking golf tour and industry news, what to play, how to play and where to play. GolfWRX surrounds consumers throughout the buying, learning and enrichment process from original photographic and video content, to peer to peer advice and camaraderie, to technical how-tos, and more. As the largest online golf community we continue to protect the purity of our members opinions and the platform to voice them. We want to protect the interests of golfers by providing an unbiased platform to feel proud to contribute to for years to come. You can follow GolfWRX on Twitter @GolfWRX and on Facebook.

25 Comments

25 Comments

  1. Lawrence Sacharuk

    Jun 24, 2014 at 12:53 am

    Was at the driving range, I hit my buddies forged x callaway irons….I’m playing x22’s …I loved the forged clubs ….

  2. Mike

    Jan 17, 2014 at 12:51 pm

    Just picked up a set of these yesterday. Callaway just released the new Apex irons and I stumbled into a Golftown and saw a brand new set of these for $300. I have been looking for a second set of clubs to keep around my parents place for those times I’m visiting and don’t have room to bring my set. Needless to say I would have bought these regardless at that price. Will be interesting to see how they compare to my TaylorMade MB’s.

    • Ray

      Jan 29, 2014 at 1:36 pm

      Was it 300 for used open box or new.

    • garth blain

      Apr 26, 2014 at 9:46 am

      which city was this golf town in l,m in calgary and was going to buy a set callaway forged irons at my golf town,same as yours new for 599.00 .l would love to pay 300.00

    • Dennis

      Sep 22, 2014 at 5:38 pm

      I have the set with Project X95 Flighted. Are you familiar with this set versus the PXI? I am trying to figure out which is best for me. The PXI’s are supposed to be lighter and softer but I have not been able to hit them. I have the 5.5 in my x95’s that are supposed to be between the regular and stiff but I cannot tell. Could you help? Do you have the PXI’s in your set? Know where to go to try them (I am in MA)?

  3. golfing badger

    Aug 18, 2013 at 3:38 pm

    anybody know if Callaway will go w/ less grooves/wider spaced grooves in the future? I am going to the Mack Daddy 2s and cannot stand looking @ tight spaced grooves & wide spaced grooves in the same bag.

  4. aaron

    Jul 21, 2013 at 1:55 pm

    Phil Mickelson has put these in his bag the last 2 tournaments and has had some of the best ball striking of his career not to mention winning both tournaments (scottish open and open championship)….I picked up my irons yesterday and cant wait to get out tomorrow and compare them side by side to my Mizuno MP59s

    • matt

      Aug 9, 2013 at 11:17 pm

      Aaron, have you had a chance to compare the 59’s and xf side by side because these are the only 2 left on my short list. I’ve played the xf and really like them but have only hit the 59’s in the store, like them there but that doesn’t compare to the real world. Almost feel like I cant miss the xf and the 4 iron usually is weak for me but now I actually have a lot of confidence when I have to pull it out. Cant wait to read feedback

      • frank

        Aug 15, 2013 at 2:30 pm

        Matt, the mp59 is not as soft as the X forged. Mp59 makes a clicky noise at impact. X forged wins hands down based on looks and performance.

    • Michael

      Aug 18, 2013 at 11:58 pm

      I’d love to know your feedback 3-4 weeks out. I’m buying either the MP-59’s or XF’s this week. The high bounce on the XF’s worries me a bit with none of the other club manufacturers going as high as Callaway has on these.

  5. Jeff

    Jun 8, 2013 at 2:00 am

    Just picked up my Cally Forgeds yesterday, custom fit and pured. Wow…I’ve always been a TM man but everything changed with these girls. 15 to 20 yards more on the lower irons. 4&5 were the same with lower flights. The feel is butter. I’m over 50 with a 90mph iron swing, yet my trusty 6 was 190 carry, 200 with roll. Well worth the change. Blew rocketbladez off the mat! Only thing better is EPON. (save your lunch money for those)Rem: it’s not the arrow…it’s the Indian.

  6. David

    Jun 2, 2013 at 12:25 am

    Just got my new Calloway Forged 2 days ago I went with PXI 5.5 I was really wanting the 6.5 or 6.0 , Man was my guy right these clubs are awesome. My current 2011 Ping Answer forged are a little harsh for me “SHAFTS I Think”, theses cally’s are smooth babies I feel I will be bagging these a while.

  7. Robert b

    Apr 10, 2013 at 4:08 pm

    Wonder why Furyk & Grace stopped playing them. They sure playing the prior model.

  8. Gary Whittington

    Mar 16, 2013 at 8:10 am

    Surprised you did not include specs on the offset for the irons. How do the X Forged compare to musclebacks in offset?

    • Greg

      Mar 18, 2013 at 6:50 pm

      Has anyone been able to compare these with the Titleist AP2 ‘s I tried hitting the X-hot pro’s and liked them but if these have some forgiveness I think I would like to try forged irons again.

  9. John

    Mar 14, 2013 at 7:23 pm

    “For golfers who don’t want to play a blade but also can’t bare to look down at a shovel . . .” I’m one of those. I, honestly, can’t take my clothes off to look down at a shovel!

  10. Rob

    Mar 14, 2013 at 3:37 pm

    I recently purchased a set of these forgoing my AP2’s. I found the AP2”s just a little too big and with less feel than some other forged irons I’ve played. I have 5 rounds played with the new Callaway X Forged and I must say they are as good as the review says if not even better! I used to play blades a couple years ago and was looking for more forgiveness. Most cavity backs made it way more difficult to work the ball in comparison though. The X Forged play like blades when it comes to working the ball but are just as or more forgiving than their counterparts in this category! I’m amazed at how accurate I am with these! Props to Callway for stepping up and putting great shafts in them too! If you get the chance to hit them I highly recommend it! You’ll be very pleasantly surprised at how great these really are!!!

  11. Guy

    Mar 14, 2013 at 3:33 pm

    Anyone notice that Branden has 15 clubs in his bag — and I don’t even see a putter.

  12. mike robertson

    Mar 14, 2013 at 12:41 pm

    Agree re supply issues – attended callaway demo event this week and liked the XHOT Pro’s but the fitter did not have any of the new forged heads so not able to demo them to compare. So no sale that day. Will now have to wait for them to return later in the year to see if they bring them with them on that occasion. If you are releasing new clubs, the first thing to do is ensure your travelling demo fitters have all the new range with them, surely!!!

  13. Graeme Clark

    Mar 14, 2013 at 10:17 am

    Lovely irons but going to be ruined by a supply issue for these heads…ordered a custom set of these three weeks ago and Callaway now telling me its likely to be May or the end of May before I see them…I am in the UK but that will kill this iron release dead. Callaway needs to get its house in order – big release of new irons has to be backed up with product. I dont imagine this issue is simply limited to the UK.

    • Patrick

      Apr 3, 2013 at 7:04 am

      It’s not because I ordered my set on feb 6 and to date, the set has not arrived. Something about a back order on the 8 or 9 heads. Why release them if they weren’t ready to fulfill orders?

  14. Villa

    Mar 13, 2013 at 12:09 pm

    BTW, Branden Grace’s wedges are AWESOME!

  15. MG

    Mar 11, 2013 at 6:11 pm

    Can you further explain how bounce works? I hear a lot about bounce in wedges but never in like a 3 or 6 iron. Who would benefit from higher bounce in their irons? What is the bounce designed to do in your longer irons? I know the Wilson/Staff fg tour v2’s have the same amount of bounce as well.

    • Jack

      Mar 12, 2013 at 1:06 am

      Bounce is there so it’s more forgiving on shots you hit fat. Imagine if the leading edge (the bottom of the face) was the lowest part, then if you were to hit into dirt then it would be a pretty good shovel. All’s good and well if you hit it perfectly ball first then ground and take a nice divot, but when you time it wrong and hit the ground early before the ball, then lots of distance is lost as a result. If there is more bounce, then the club does exactly that, it bounces a little when you contact with the ground because the lowest part of the club is not the face. So more forgiving. Another advantage to have less bounce is that it’s easier to hit out of the rough (assuming again that you contact the ball first).

Leave a Reply

Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

Published

on

@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

Your Reaction?
  • 16
  • LEGIT2
  • WOW0
  • LOL0
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB0
  • SHANK1

Continue Reading

Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

Published

on

In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

Your Reaction?
  • 10
  • LEGIT0
  • WOW1
  • LOL1
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP1
  • OB1
  • SHANK1

Continue Reading

Equipment

GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

Published

on

It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

Your Reaction?
  • 31
  • LEGIT2
  • WOW0
  • LOL1
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB1
  • SHANK3

Continue Reading

WITB

Facebook

Trending