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Nike Golf unveils new Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour golf shoe in collaboration with Brooks Koepka

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Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour

In collaboration with World Number One Brooks Koepka, Nike Golf has launched the Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour golf shoe.

The Nike Air Zoom Infinity shoe bids to provide maximum speed and comfort to golfers and is designed to produce maximum energy return from the ground up by re-harvesting and redistributing some of the energy lost during a player’s swing.

 Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour

 

The collaboration on the project began in 2017 when Koepka challenged Nike designers to create a running shoe he could play golf in. The result of which is the Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour shoe which looks to blend comfort and style while also generating maximum power from the ground upwards.

Speaking on the creation of the new Nike Air Zoom Infinity shoe, Matt Plumb, Nike Golf Product Line Manager stated

“Brooks was instrumental in the Air Zoom Infinity Tour iterative process, helping us get to the point where we can now help golfers look at their footwear as part of their equipment on the course.” 

 Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour

 

According to Nike, designers analysed data from pressure maps to see where traction elements needed to be positioned on the shoe for an ultimate return on movement. They developed a holistic system that transfers more power up the kinetic chain. The brand then obsessed the areas of fit (to reduce in-shoe movement), ride (for maximum energy retention) and traction (for zero slip in any direction).

 Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour

The Nike Air Zoom Infinity shoe contains Nike Zoom Stroble technology and moderator plate, first tested on court by Kevin Durant in Nike Basketball’s KD12 – designed to provide structure, comfort and enable energy return needed on the golf course.

 Nike Air Zoom Infinity Tour

Another feature of the new addition from Nike is the company’s weather-resistant Flyknit.

The brand also borrowed design elements, and Nike REACT foam from Nike Running’s Nike React Infinity Run Flyknit for added cushioning and energy return on the golf course.

Nike’s Air Zoom Infinity Tour golf shoe releases April 1 on nike.com.

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Gianni is the Assistant Editor at GolfWRX. He can be contacted at gianni@golfwrx.com. Follow him on Twitter @giannimosquito

21 Comments

21 Comments

  1. Natty

    Jan 26, 2020 at 4:07 am

    40% of america is anti-america. Thats exactly the side Nike has chosen. Sad.

  2. dat

    Jan 23, 2020 at 10:25 pm

    No longer support this disgusting company. What I have is what I have, but I’m not buying anything new. Their hardgoods were great, and bags were even better. But, once they got out of that it was all downhill and it shows in the softgoods as well as their politics.

    • Phil

      Jan 24, 2020 at 12:44 am

      please explain how their politics correlates to their product quality? My guess is you’re just a racist but i could be persuaded otherwise!

  3. Ray

    Jan 23, 2020 at 12:27 pm

    My family will never buy another Nike product again. I’d go barefoot and naked first

  4. Jerry

    Jan 22, 2020 at 7:55 am

    I am assuming this won’t be the only color scheme, but they look nice. Now the more important question, how much?

  5. Fred

    Jan 19, 2020 at 5:11 pm

    Wow that’s a nice combo, it’s funny seeing non sneaker heads talk about how a shoe looked, but tech wise I have flynit reacts and they are very useful for walking and keeping that constant comfort/support in a good level versus other shoes that’ll bottom out after 1-2 hrs of wearing them. Very nice they put a zoom unit in them which is a great addition. Y’all old heads stick to your bs saddle shoes while I wear some of these and let my feet stay comfy

  6. Michael

    Jan 19, 2020 at 12:35 am

    Same company that makes a Kapernick shoe with the date of his first kneeling. Not for me.!

    • Brad

      Jan 19, 2020 at 2:48 am

      You should buy a pair and then set them on fire. That’ll show em!

    • george

      Jan 22, 2020 at 8:09 pm

      Yea I don’t buy anything Nike for that reason

      • Stephen

        Jan 24, 2020 at 1:25 am

        No, but if you buy them and set them on fire everyone will see how much you hate them!

    • Wes B

      Jan 23, 2020 at 11:33 am

      Definitely agree. As good as these look no way I’m giving them money after they support someone like that.

      • Jerry

        Jan 24, 2020 at 1:27 am

        I think we all know what the “B” in Wes B stands for. And we know it stands for something because it darn sure doesn’t kneel!

  7. Teetee

    Jan 17, 2020 at 4:24 pm

    Who erased the LGBTQ comment?
    I am LGBTQ, and I think these shoes are perfect for me.
    The heel spinning comment was spot on, that’s exactly what this shoe looks like!

  8. DB

    Jan 16, 2020 at 4:23 pm

    Clothing/shoes made with Brooks Koepka? The guy who wears thongs on social media? Haha. No.

  9. Mark M

    Jan 16, 2020 at 3:39 pm

    I like everything they’re saying about the making of the shoe, but do they have to be so damned ugly?!

    • Brandon

      Jan 18, 2020 at 9:30 am

      All Nike shoes are ugly,golf or otherwise.

      • Deion

        Jan 24, 2020 at 1:24 am

        Hot take there, Brandon. Don’t cut yourself on that edge.

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Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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