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2019 Titleist T-Series irons—T100, T200, and T300—hit retail

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The 2019 and 2020 Titleist T-Series irons: On August 30th, the Titleist T-Series T100 (AP2 replacement), T200 (AP3 replacement), and T300 (AP1 replacement) will hit retail stores, and what will be waiting for golfers is an iron line that will satisfy on multiple levels.

Photos of the new 2019 and 2020 Titleist T100 irons

titleist t100 irons

titleist t 100 irons

titleist ap2 replacement titleist t100 iron

GolfWRX staff has had a chance to hit and study the Titleist T-Series since its initial launch and these are the early reactions.

LOOKS: Titleist T-100 irons

The 2019 Titleist T100 iron has a couple of key changes to the optics that we think are a huge improvement over the AP2.

  • Thinner topline
  • Reduced off-set

Both of these changes were based on the input from tour staffer Jordan Spieth. Here is what he had to say about the AP2 Replacement

“When I first saw the T-100 irons and it didn’t say ‘AP2’ on it, I had to have full trust,” Spieth said. “I’m sitting there saying, ‘Man, I played the same iron that said the same thing on it since 2010, probably earlier.’ But I’ve been playing Titleist clubs since I was 12 years old, and they’ve never led me in the wrong direction and they’ve always gotten better. And the idea of a name change – really an entire change across the board with their irons – is big. But there are big changes.”

FEEL: Titleist T100 Irons

The 2019-2020 Titleist T-100 iron is equipped with a new fully-forged dual cavity construction that provides more consistency across the face as well as increased ball speed for maximum distance. The face is thinner overall but a solid “forged blade” feel is not sacrificed.

66 grams of dual-density tungsten was placed in the heel and toe of the mid and long irons to increase stability and provide a heavier hit overall.

“The Titleist T100 irons shocked me a bit. It’s actually very forgiving on miss hits which for me is a thin, center strike. Typically with players irons that miss always has a dead feel to me, with The T100 not only did it feel fantastic but I still got the proper feedback, spin and carry….does that make sense?”-Johnny Wunder, Host of The Gear Dive

OVERALL: Titleist T 100 Irons

“The Titleist T100 iron is a winner form top to bottom. It looks amazing, its extremely playable and the new thinner topline and reduced offset may convert the traditional MB/CB players. I don’t think it’s any coincidence that a good number of tour players that have never put the AP2 in the bag are starting to mess around with these.”-Johnny Wunder, Host of The Gear Dive

Tour Pics

CHARLES HOWELL III 4- 8-iron 2019/2020 Titleist T 100 irons

Titleist has also launched for 2019 and 2020 their player irons the Titleist 620 MB blade and the Titleist 620 CB cavity back irons. You can see that in a separate article here.

Titleist T100 Iron prototypes for Cam Smith

Titleist T200 Irons

On Spec’s Ryan Barath had a full testing with the T-200 irons and this is what he had to say

LOOKS: Titleist T-200 irons

The very first thing I noticed about the 2019 Titleist T200 iron is that although slightly more rounded and bigger than the smaller 100, thanks to the tweaking of the topline, sole and toe profile, the T200 to me looks more like an older AP2 than its predecessor in the lineup, AP3. The short irons of the T200s still frame the ball very nicely and allow for workability and the chance to flight shots.

FEEL

Max Impact sounds and looks very different from any Titleist iron before it, because it is. Thanks to new materials and manufacturing techniques, along with lessons learned through the development of the Concept Series and Speed Project, the 2019 Titleist T200 has an unsupported forged L-Face that not only feels fantastic but flexes for more ball speed.

That’s what I loved about these irons, they felt so close to the Titleist T100s as far as feel and sound go, that I instantly thought of building a combo set. The ball takes off high and comes down soft. The speed is the reason stronger lofts are required for the 2019 Titleist T200 LAUNCH. The lower COG paired with the faster face and higher ball speed means that without going stronger, players are going to spin it TOO much—not something you would generally expect from a club with “stronger” lofts. but what I really loved about them was how they felt through the turf. They don’t have the feel of a midsized iron…but they do have the speed!

I loved everything about the T200 and I think that if you are getting fit for new irons, these have to be on the list to try!

titleist t200 irons

titleist t200 irons titleist 2020 irons t200

Titleist T300 Irons

Ryan Barath also gave the 2019 and 2020 Titleist T-300 irons a spin

LOOKS

The 2019 and 2020 Titleist T300 irons is a game improvement, tech-packed, fun to hit distance iron. So if you are a traditionalist, then we get it, it’s not a forged blade. HOWEVER, The Titleist T300 is a well put together package that won’t offend anyone from an optics standpoint. The 2019 Titleist T 300 iron has a clean mid-size look with a nice top line, a longer blade length and progressive offset.

Long story short, if a better player snuck a 4 or 5-iron in a blended set, they would find a set that blended VERY nicely.

FEEL

They are by no means clicky or clunky and that again comes backs to how the dampening of the Max Impact behind the face. Just like the other irons in the T Series, through the turf, they perform like a much smaller club because of the redesigned and finely tuned camber and radius.

When I first saw the specs for the T300, I said what a lot of people did “WOW, these lofts are strong, they should go very far.” But as someone that knows clubs, I know that stated loft is not the full story, and at this point in golf technology, I’m completely done with hearing that as an excuse for players to NOT trying a club. In the case of T300, we’re still talking Max Impact. The T300’s don’t hide who they are—an undercut, fast, forgiving iron meant for speed.

The unsupported face is stretched across a larger area thanks to the bigger face size, wider sole, and undercut perimeter that pushes the CG lower and away from the face! The deep CG and thin fast face are what makes this club launch so high, which is another reason why I really liked it. You won’t confuse the feel of the 2019 Titleist T300 with the 2019 Titleist T100 because they are completely different animals. The 2019 Titleist T300 feel and sound FAST!

To me, the 2019 Titleist T300 are not a “higher handicap” iron, with the classic Titleist looks, and modern speed, any player looking to hit it higher and further is going to benefit from giving these a shot.

titleist t300 irons

titleist 2019 irons t300 titleist t-300 irons titleist t series t300

Which ones are for you?

GolfWRX.com always recommends you get fit! Keep in mind that the 2019-2020 Titleist Irons are designed to be mixed and matched to make up the perfect set for you. Go to an authorized fitter in your area.

HOWEVER, if you must make a decision now, boil it down to this: playability. If you are a better player but want some help, The 2019 Titleist T100 iron is it. If you want a bit more help and an iron that is a little more confidence-inspiring BUT don’t want to sacrifice much on the workability, the 2019 Titleist T200 iron is your choice. And if you just wanna hit bombs and have a blast, the 2019 Titleist T300 iron is it.

Comparison shots of the new Titleist T-Series irons

Titleist T100 vs the T200

titleist t100 and t200 irons titleist 2019 t series t-100 vs t-200

Titleist T200 vs the T300

titleist t200 vs t300 irons 2019 titleist t-200 and t-300 irons

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GolfWRX is the world's largest and best online golf community. Expert editorial reviews, breaking golf tour and industry news, what to play, how to play and where to play. GolfWRX surrounds consumers throughout the buying, learning and enrichment process from original photographic and video content, to peer to peer advice and camaraderie, to technical how-tos, and more. As the largest online golf community we continue to protect the purity of our members opinions and the platform to voice them. We want to protect the interests of golfers by providing an unbiased platform to feel proud to contribute to for years to come. You can follow GolfWRX on Twitter @GolfWRX and on Facebook.

7 Comments

7 Comments

  1. Matt Wiseley

    Sep 1, 2019 at 8:00 am

    I tried a fitting on the t200 and t300 last Saturday. No matter what shaft they used, they couldn’t get my spin rates and decent angle better than my Callaway cf16 apex.

    7 iron T200/300= 194 carry rolling out to 201. Decent angle 41*, with only 6700 rpm spin.
    Callaway 7 iron= 193 carry rolling to 196. Decent angle 45* with 8900 rpm spin.

    The loft jacking does become an issue.

  2. Curt

    Aug 31, 2019 at 1:46 pm

    The black T-100’s made me drool a bit lol.

  3. rex 235

    Aug 31, 2019 at 10:34 am

    And just how many of these new Titleist models are RH Only?

  4. Roy

    Aug 31, 2019 at 8:39 am

    Maybe they are trying to sell more Foley’s b/c with these lofts seems you will. We’d 6 gap wedges

  5. Still a donkey

    Aug 30, 2019 at 7:08 pm

    Nice irons, but Matt Kuchar is still a big donkey.

  6. Alex

    Aug 30, 2019 at 2:22 pm

    100s look great other 2 look terrible. I’d rather ass the new utility on high end than the 200 series.

  7. David

    Aug 30, 2019 at 11:43 am

    My local Roger Dunn’s had them displayed yesterday and I hit the T100. Pure, but not so much different from the 718 AP2 and 718 MB. Would like to see what lightly used sets are going for in a few months.

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Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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