Connect with us

Equipment

Titleist 620 irons: Classics refined for the modern player

Published

on

Some irons need no introduction.

For decades, the number 600 has been synonymous with classic forgings from Titleist. Blades and cavity backs that have found their way into the bags of the world’s best and golfers looking for the ultimate experience in shotmaking and feel. Be it the 660, 670, 680, 681, or 690, a set of these in a golf bag usually meant one thing—look out!

These timeless designs evoke memories of well-struck shots and golf balls curving in the air at a player’s will. In homage to the legacy of those that have come before, and looking towards the future with refinements for the modern player, Titleist introduces 620 MB and CB irons.

Titleist 620 MB irons

Blades, also known as muscle backs, are the easiest style of clubs to recognize in the game. Whether it be on a shelf in a pro shop or in a Sunday bag next to the practice green, you can spot them in a second. The thing is, when it comes to the 620s from Titleist, you won’t find the initials MB on them anywhere. The reason is beyond simple in its explanation, according to Marni Ines, Director, Titleist Irons Development: “We wanted to bring this blade back to its roots and make it as clean as possible, eliminate any unnecessary markings on the hosel on the back. So we didn’t stamp it with MB. We figure it you’re in the market for a blade you don’t need to be told what one is.” As I said, it almost makes too much sense.

Beyond the stamping, there is more to these irons than initially meets the eye. The 620 series offers improved turf interaction throughout the set thanks to more camber and a tweaked leading edge. I realize this is something often mentioned with new releases, especially with players clubs, but there is a good reason: As modern swings are changing, so are turf conditions. The improved agronomy of modern courses means club soles especially need to be tweaked to offer maximum playability. The sharp leading edges of yesteryear are LONG gone!

In addition to the sole tweaks, there is also less sole to worry about in the short irons. Let me explain: To offer greater control of trajectory and help players “hit their proper windows,” the set has characteristics hidden in each club. The blade length is progressive from the longest iron to the shortest, the transition is so smooth that unless you set clubs next to each other, it’s quite difficult to notice. Every detail of each head was checked, double-checked, and tour validated before getting to this point. The next part of this progression is the face height, which also transitions from more shallow to tall in the pitching wedge. This is where the extra control comes from, especially in the shorter irons with a higher CG.

Titleist has taken everything it has learned from previous MB designs, and with feedback from the best players in the world, created the finest, most controllable, blade it has ever made. It will never be the most forgiving option, but I can’t blame a player of any skill level for wanting to give 620 MB irons a try.

Titleist 620 CB irons

Just like its big brother, the blade, the Titleist 620 CB has gone through a total refinement process to get to where it is today. The sole and profile have similar tweaks to the MB but in an ever-so-fractionally larger package.

Progressive blade length and face height create the same trajectory control, but what makes the CB different is that unlike the blade (or the Titleist T300 iron), it’s not a club found at either end of the spectrum, it’s within it. Data shows that more thanr 80 percent of tour players play some sort of combo set, whether it be blades to CBs, or CBs to unsupported faster-faced irons. What this means is that the CB has to hit this perfect middle ground between transition club and being its own boss.

This is what Titleist has done to complete perfection, not just with the CB but with the clubs around it. Each radius, curve, and transition slots in perfectly with the models on each side of it, this allow you as the player to pick the set the way YOU want, and not be dictated by some unpleasant look from address. The 620 CB is still 100 percent its own unique club, designed for a specific player type, but thanks to some very smart engineering it also gives you more options.

There is more than meets the eye with the long irons of the 620 CB too. Just like the T100s, the 3 and 4-irons of the CB are co-forged with tungsten in the heel and toe to keep the size small but give a serious boost to MOI and launch.

“Our ability to use co-forged high-density tungsten in such a compact blade size like 620 CB is extremely powerful, especially at the long end of the set where players need the most help with launch and forgiveness,” Marni Ines, Director, Titleist Irons Development.

This isn’t the only club in the new Titleist iron line that has gone through this reimagining. The T100 profile has been shrunk compared to the previous AP2 (its most direct club in the previous line) to be the exact same size as the CB to offer greater stability through the ball thanks to embedded tungsten. So, regardless of if you are looking to go full CB or build your own combo set, the 620 irons from Titleist give you the classic look and feel you want—with plenty of performance.

620 MB and 620 CB Specs

STOCK SHAFTS

Steel

620 CB: True Temper Project X LZ: Mid-launch shaft that offers smooth feel, and tour trajectory for those looking to maximize control and have a smoother tempo.

620 MB: True Temper Project X: Low-launch, low-spin shaft that has been a staple on tour and in the bags of some of the world’s top players with faster tempos looking for maximum stability.

Graphite

This is a new one for Titleist. Just like with the original True Temper AMT, they will be the first to offer the Mitsubishi MCA Tensei White AM2 (stands for “ascending mass”).  This new shaft is a low-launch, low-spin option for those wanting a lighter total weight and vibration dampening. The shaft will ascend two grams per club, starting at 108 grams in the PW and going to 94 grams in the 3-iron.

These options are on top of Titleist’s already extremely large selection of available shafts—including options from KBS and Nippon—many of which are available at no additional up-charge.

AVAILABILITY

The new Titleist 620 irons will be available in golf shops worldwide beginning August 30, with fittings beginning August 8.

Steel: MAP $175 per club ($1,399/set of 8)

Graphite: MAP $187.50 per club ($1,499 /set of 8)

Your Reaction?
  • 115
  • LEGIT8
  • WOW3
  • LOL5
  • IDHT1
  • FLOP3
  • OB2
  • SHANK9

Ryan Barath is part of the Digital Content Creation Team for GolfWRX. He hosts the "On Spec" Podcast on the GolfWRX Radio Network which focuses on discussing everything golf, including gear, technology, fitting, and course architecture. He is a club-fitter & master club builder with more than 17 years of experience working with golfers of all skill levels, including PGA Tour players. He is the former Build Shop Manager & Social Media Coordinator for Modern Golf. He now works independently from his home shop and is a member of advisory panels to a select number of golf equipment manufacturers. You can find Ryan on Twitter and Instagram where he's always willing to chat golf, and share his passion for club building, course architecture and wedge grinding.

10 Comments

10 Comments

  1. Mike

    Aug 8, 2019 at 8:33 pm

    Finally one with nothing stamped on it, just a clean Blade NICE!

  2. Bobbyg

    Aug 7, 2019 at 1:40 pm

    Makes me miss my 660 blades.

  3. Doesnotno

    Aug 7, 2019 at 8:46 am

    $175 for the MB, made by hitting a black of hot metal with a hammer before grinding and polishing it. The T300 is $125 a piece, with multiple pieces and polymers, and presumably a degree of grinding and polishing.

    What gives? Aren’t blades the cheapest clubs to manufacture any more?

  4. dat

    Aug 6, 2019 at 8:47 pm

    MB yes, CB no.

  5. The dude

    Aug 6, 2019 at 2:12 pm

    MB’s….wow!…now that’s clean (lookout Miz)

  6. Michael Constantine

    Aug 6, 2019 at 9:57 am

    Specs available anywhere?

Leave a Reply

Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

Published

on

@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

Your Reaction?
  • 1
  • LEGIT1
  • WOW0
  • LOL0
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB0
  • SHANK0

Continue Reading

Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

Published

on

In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

Your Reaction?
  • 1
  • LEGIT0
  • WOW0
  • LOL0
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB0
  • SHANK0

Continue Reading

Equipment

GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

Published

on

It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

Your Reaction?
  • 18
  • LEGIT0
  • WOW0
  • LOL1
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB1
  • SHANK0

Continue Reading

WITB

Facebook

Trending