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Titleist T-Series irons: Ultimate tour performance

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New technology, new name: The Titleist T-Series irons.

The concept behind the T-Series started with one goal: To produce the best performing, most technology packed, playable irons, ever produced by Titleist…simply put: mission accomplished! With the launch of the new T100, T200, and T300s, Titleist is ushering in a new era of forgiveness, speed, and control with Max Impact.

What does that mean? Before diving into Max Impact, let’s start with the control part. With the launch of the new T-Series, Titleist is reminding golfers that fitting is the key to maximizing your set. From wedges to woods, each club should serve a distinct purpose and earn its spot in your bag—never carry a club because you “think” you need it, carry the clubs you know you will use.

Titleist calls this is the 3D Fitting Process

  • Distance
  • Dispersion
  • Descent

Focusing on these factors ensures each iron in your bag is creating the proper parameters to improve scoring. Statistics prove that the closer you hit it to your target (descent and dispersion) the likelihood of getting the next shot closer (or in the hole) goes way up—it’s the strokes gained principle pioneered by Mark Broadie. Each iron in the T-Series has been designed to blend with the other models including the 620 series blades and CBs to make sure regardless of your final set make up it transitions on both looks and performance. With the new T-Series, the larger the number model 100, 200, 300, the faster the ball speeds and the higher the launch. Add the all-new Max Impact Technology, and you have three distinct iron sets designed to help any player find the performance they are looking for.

Titleist T100 irons

Built from the ground up with direct input from Titleist’s PGA Tour staff, the mission statement from the design team for the new T100 was to simply create the best performing tour iron ever—NOT “the best AP2.” With a shape that is distinctly Titleist but completely redefined as far as offset, top line, sole width, camber, and blade length, the T100 gives players looking for a tour performance iron more playability than ever before.

Co-forged with large amounts of tungsten (66g on average in the 3-7 irons) in the heel and toe, the T100 looks a lot more like a single-piece forged players cavity back than multi-piece forgiveness monster, but looks can be deceiving. It has the thinnest face they have ever built into a true forged players club, which allows designers to push more mass around the head and create greater ball speed, which is a never a bad thing especially when you consider that it still has a fully supported face.

Just like with club technology, turf conditions are always evolving with new grass types and mower techniques. This means where the club contacts the ground has to evolve too, which is exactly what has happened to the whole T-Series including the T100. Sole width and profiles have been reduced to offer more camber and radius, which through the testing process has lead players to say the same thing over and over: “they feel faster through the turf.” That’s from Marni Ines, Director, Titleist Irons Development. It’s not that they actually go through that much faster but they react through the ground much more efficiently, which means as course conditions vary, whether through the season or thanks to traveling, you are going to great results shot after shot.

(Club fitter thought break for a moment)

I can’t reiterate this enough: In the world of designing golf clubs, the rules set forth by the governing bodies along with mass totals for club heads will always create a unique challenge for engineers. Every single gram saved is valuable in creating higher MOI, better COG placement, and optimizing ball speed. Tweaks that might appear to be small can actually make a big difference for some players, for example; a simple change in sole shape. What we are seeing is the practice of marginal gains, which can be summed up by this practical application: rather than attempt to improve one thing by 10 percent, improve 10 things by 1 percent to equal better results. Now take it further and imagine if you improve 10 measurable factors by 1.5 percent, these are tangible numbers for increased performance.

So why do I bring this up? It’s because this is how engineers work to help you play better golf. All these small changes compounded together make for big improvements to your golf game. It’s about using every technology available in both production and design to create improvement. If you can change three parameters to get angle of decent two percent higher from 43 degrees to 45 degrees that’s greater stopping power to help you get closer to flags, equaling the potential to score better. Something we all want to do.

Speaking to technology jumps, this bring us to…

MAX Impact

Max Impact is a combination of technologies that pairs the thinnest faces Titleist has ever produced with structural support and polymer core behind the geometric center of the face to increase speed, launch, and improve feel.

So about the supporting polymer: It’s not some run of the mill, “Hey that sound like a good idea,” piece of just anything. If there is one thing Titleist knows beyond how to make the number one irons on tour, it’s polymers. With help from the golf ball R&D Team, the Titleist Iron engineers went through a multitude of options before settling on the what was the final variation based on density, rebound properties and finally acoustic enhancement. As they explained,

“Think of the unsupported face like a trampoline, pulled tight with a huge potential for rebound. Now take that trampoline and put an exercise ball underneath it right in the middle. You’re going to bounce higher and increase the rebound not only in the middle but also when you don’t catch the middle of the trampoline – That’s the application of the Max Impact.”

So what do we do about all of this speed? The one thing players often talk about is the inconsistency in distance they see from irons with unsupported faces (“hotspots”) that occur on shots hit around the face. During my discussion with the engineering team, I asked if these “hotspots” still really exist on modern irons and to my surprise I was told in one way or the other “YES…BUT.” These shots that go further don’t actually come from the face being hotter in one area, they come from gear effect from shots usually hit high on the face above the center of percussion…

Center of percussion? Let’s explain that before going any further (Thanks Harvard Natural Sciences Lecture) “The center of percussion (COP) is the place on a bat, racket, or golf club where it may be struck without causing reaction at the point of support. When a ball is hit at this spot, the contact feels good and the ball seems to spring away with its greatest speed and therefore this is often referred to as the sweet spot.”

Just like with a driver, shots hit above that area will launch higher with less spin—that creates parameters for shots to go further. But if you can prevent that from happening or shrink that area, the likelihood of those shots occurring goes WAY down and you get a much more consistent ball flight. That’s part of the genius of Max Impact, not only does it help create greater speed but creates more consistent speed and launch conditions all over the face. Everything you want in an iron built for speed in a players package.

Titleist T200 irons

The first thing you’ll notice that makes the T200 unique from any Titleist iron before it is Max Impact Technology. I realize this sounds very different from any Titleist iron before it and…well…that’s because it is.

Thanks to new materials and manufacturing techniques, along with lessons learned through the introduction of the Concept Series and Speed Project, the T200 has an unsupported (by metal) Forged L-Face that not only feels great but flexes for more ball speed. Thanks to the weight savings of the thinner Forged L-face, more tungsten (average of 90g from the 4-7-irons) can be placed low and on the perimeter of the club to increase forgiveness and overall total stability where players need it.

That’s part of the reason stronger lofts are required—these things really do LAUNCH. Max Impact isn’t found in every T200 though, it has been placed in the 4- 7 irons because Titleist player testing and data crunching proved time after time that as players get away from their scoring clubs distance gapping and dispersion becomes an issue. This is where the 3D fitting process makes sure every club in the set has a purpose and hits a proper flight and distance.

Titleist T300 irons

If you just look at the spec for the T300, I already know what you’re going to say “WOW, these lofts are jacked, no wonder they go so far.” That’s not the full story, and at this point in golf technology, I’m completely over hearing that as an excuse for players to NOT trying a club. This comes from the perspective of a fitter rather than a player—not the other way around.

The T300 is the hottest and most forgiving Titleist iron ever made. Just like its smaller brother, the T200, it uses the same Max Impact Technology to both add rebound and improve overall feel. The unsupported face is stretched across a larger area thanks to the bigger face size, wider sole, and undercut perimeter to push the COG low and away from the face—if the T200 launches, then the T300 REALLY Launches! This deep COG and thin fast face is what makes this club launch so high, it’s also the reason stronger lofts are necessary. If it wasn’t for strong lofts, then with the speed and spin they would create at “standard” lofts, ball flight would end up uncontrollable. Basically the exact opposite of what you want in an iron.

Part of how they were able to make the T300 the most forgiving Titleist iron ever is by actually eliminating a part of the club that was beneficial in previous models (like the AP1)—hollow-body construction. Even with a hollow-body design, there is unnecessary weight placed high along the back of the club.

Generally for many designs this is fine because the wall thickness is minimal, and thanks to smarter people than me, this allows for more flexing of the body of the club to enhance ball speeds. But if given the option between the two, a fully undercut iron would have a higher MOI and help create that same trampoline when engineered properly and free up more discretionary mass. For the T300, Max Impact is found in the 4-7 irons to again help with launch and speed and create proper set gapping.

Stock Shafts & Availability

Titleist has one of the largest available shaft matrices available through custom order, but the stock shafts for each model are as follows.

Steel

T100 – True Temper AMT Tour White AMT White
T200- True Temper AMT Black AMT Black
T300- True Temper AMT Red AMT Red

Graphite

This is a new one for Titleist. Just like with the original True Temper AMT, they will be the first to offer the Mitsubishi MCA Tensei AM2 (stands for ascending mass) shafts that will come in  versions White, Blue, & Red.

T100 – Mitsubishi MCA Tensei White AM2 | Low launch, low spin | 94-108g (2g per club)
T200- Mitsubishi MCA Tensei Blue AM2 | Mid launch, mid spin | 74-88g (2g per club)
T300- Mitsubishi MCA Tensei Red AM2 | High launch, mid-high spin | 54-68g (2g per club)

T-SERIES AVAILABILITY: New Titleist T-Series irons will be available in golf shops worldwide beginning Aug. 30, with fittings beginning Aug. 8. With Pricing of the T100 and 200 set at $175 per club with steel ($1,399/set of 8) and $187.50 per club ($1,499 /set of 8) graphite

T300 will be $125 per club ($999/set of 8) Steel & $137.50 per club ($1,099/set of 8) graphite

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Ryan Barath is part of the Digital Content Creation Team for GolfWRX. He hosts the "On Spec" Podcast on the GolfWRX Radio Network which focuses on discussing everything golf, including gear, technology, fitting, and course architecture. He is a club-fitter & master club builder with more than 17 years of experience working with golfers of all skill levels, including PGA Tour players. He is the former Build Shop Manager & Social Media Coordinator for Modern Golf. He now works independently from his home shop and is a member of advisory panels to a select number of golf equipment manufacturers. You can find Ryan on Twitter and Instagram where he's always willing to chat golf, and share his passion for club building, course architecture and wedge grinding.

23 Comments

23 Comments

  1. B LANEY

    Aug 19, 2019 at 4:24 pm

    Do you guys have an editor? If not, please hire one. The spelling and grammar errors across the site are sloppy very unprofessional.

  2. bill

    Aug 19, 2019 at 3:20 pm

    whats the offset?

  3. Nate

    Aug 19, 2019 at 2:06 pm

    You negate the question, but then don’t answer it – WHY does Titleist use these ridiculous loft angles!? PSA to anyone at Titleist – I was actually getting into the idea of getting these T200s, but when I see these loft angles, I just think that you guys are trying to fool us into thinking our X iron goes further than the competition and that makes me really not want to get these. Is there a reasonable explanation why??

  4. Aztec

    Aug 17, 2019 at 1:55 am

    These are UGLY…

  5. s

    Aug 8, 2019 at 5:10 pm

    Now that PW is a 150yd club, we will need to buy 5-6 Vokey wedges to fill the gap. Way to go, Titleist!

  6. Pelling

    Aug 8, 2019 at 6:31 am

    Junk.

    • Bing Hogan

      Aug 8, 2019 at 10:20 am

      Yep, and embarrassing to have in the bag.

  7. Bobby

    Aug 7, 2019 at 8:32 pm

    The T300 will be in my bag ASAP. AP1s were great. If these are better, sign me up.

  8. Bing Hogan

    Aug 7, 2019 at 9:43 am

    Time to have a PW distance contest

  9. Robstercsi

    Aug 7, 2019 at 5:16 am

    See you’ve changed the spelling of ‘descent’ now – no thanks needed, and best wishes, Rob

  10. Mark

    Aug 7, 2019 at 2:05 am

    Dear Mr. Barath,

    I have an interest in golf club technology but possess limited knowledge. Given your extensive knowledge, please would you be so kind as to explain what the terms “tour performance” and “tour iron” mean.

    Yours appreciatively,

    Mark B.

  11. Kansaslefty

    Aug 7, 2019 at 12:25 am

    No thanks

  12. Spyy

    Aug 6, 2019 at 11:03 pm

    One ugly set of irons, a huge glob stuck in cavity’s…….pitiful loony

  13. Chuckies In love

    Aug 6, 2019 at 10:41 pm

    Oh look!! Fashion irons, the penny loafer and tie bar on a stick!

  14. Brent

    Aug 6, 2019 at 10:38 pm

    I’d be interested in AP1 irons this fall, but not the new T300s. Ryan, any idea if both sets will be available for custom orders for a few more months, or only the new irons?

  15. DJ

    Aug 6, 2019 at 8:54 pm

    I want the T300 11* one iron

  16. dat

    Aug 6, 2019 at 8:47 pm

    Hideous

  17. Curt

    Aug 6, 2019 at 8:29 pm

    Cool clubs. To much technology. Should be banned on tour. I’ll never understand why pros are so spoiled. Be like the MLB finally allowing metal bats. Just making the sport easier and easier every day. Personally do not believe modern pros are any better and every record breaker needs an asterisk *****.

  18. Scott

    Aug 6, 2019 at 5:57 pm

    Mizuno MP 20 release is 9/5

  19. Cc Shop

    Aug 6, 2019 at 5:04 pm

    Much better look in person. Plus I couldn’t argue with results. Current 718 Ap2 are two degrees strong loft and I was getting nearly identical distance and spin numbers out of the T100 at its stock loft. If your an AP2 player give the New CB a strong look. A little higher spin for me but feel and forgiveness was outstanding.

  20. JCGolf

    Aug 6, 2019 at 2:15 pm

    Changing descent angle from 43 degrees to 45 degrees is a 4.6% difference. Not a 2% difference.

  21. BettiBoop

    Aug 6, 2019 at 1:50 pm

    Those have to be the ugliest irons I’ve seen in a long time. All of them are just plain ugly.

  22. duke

    Aug 6, 2019 at 11:39 am

    Beautiful clubs and T100 for me. Wow 43* PW. OEM’s are on a “pw loft” competition.

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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