Equipment
Forum Thread of the Day: “Mini driver vs. Big driver”
Today’s Forum Thread of the Day comes from bjh1 who has been having success with the 2014 SLDR mini driver (14 degrees). However, bjh1 “wants to hit a ‘real’ driver”, and after explaining how his results haven’t been as good with ‘big’ drivers, our members give their advice on steps bjh1 could take.
Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.
- DaveGoodrich: “If you actually hit the “mini” better (i.e. more consistent center face contact), then the general recommendation has been to try a normal driver with a shorter shaft and/or more loft.”
- MillHill88: “Keep Swing Weight in mind. Every inch you cut off a club, you will reduce the swing weight by a few points. Example: your D2 swing weight could become C9. If you cut the shaft down, put a heavier grip on to help eliminate too much SW loss.”
- Valtiel: “For many people, it is a length thing, modern drivers are just too dang long most of the time. For others, it’s a head size thing. Remember, it’s just a piece of metal on a stick; everything else is in your head. Figure out what makes your head work and you’re golden. Try shortening your driver first and don’t be afraid to take a lot off. Maybe try with a cheap shaft first just to experiment.”
- MBBG: “Just go with what works. It’s that simple. The Original One has been a life saver for me as I’ve struggled through some major driver issues this spring. Been playing driver roulette all season and think I now have something that is going to work, but I’m keeping it in the bag.”
Entire Thread: “Mini driver vs Big driver”
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- Steve Stricker WITB accurate as of the Zurich Classic. More photos from the event here.
Driver: Titleist TSR3 (9 degrees, C4 SureFit setting)
Shaft: Fujikura Motore Speeder VC 7.2 X
3-wood: Titleist 915F (13.5 degrees)
Shaft: Mitsubishi Tensei CK Pro White 80 TX
Hybrid: Titleist 816 H1 (17 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Motore Speeder VC 9.2 X
Irons: Titleist T200 (3, 4), Titleist T100 (5-9)
Shafts: Project X 6.5
Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM8 (46-10F @55), Titleist Vokey SM10 (54-10S @53), Titleist Vokey SM4 (60 @59)
Shafts: True Temper Dynamic Gold X100 w/Sensicore
Putter: Odyssey White Hot No. 2
Ball: Titleist Pro V1x
Grips: Golf Pride Tour Velvet Grip Rite
Check out more in-hand photos of Steve Stricker’s clubs here.
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- Alex Fitzpatrick what’s in the bag accurate as of the Zurich Classic.
Driver: Ping G430 LST (10.5 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Ventus Black 6 X
3-wood: TaylorMade Qi10 (15 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Ventus TR Black 7 X
Hybrid: Ping G430 (19 degrees)
Shaft: Fujikura Ventus Black HB 10 TX
Irons: Ping iCrossover (2), Titleist T100 (4-PW)
Shafts: Fujikura Ventus Black HB 9 TX (2), Nippon N.S. Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 X (4-9)
Wedges: Titleist Vokey Design SM10 (50-12F, 56-12D, 60-08M)
Shafts: Nippon N.S. Pro Modus 3 Tour 120 X
Putter: Bettinardi SS16 Dass
Grips: Golf Pride MCC
Check out more in-hand photos of Alex Fitzpatrick’s clubs here.
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In our forums, our members have been discussing Mini-Drivers and accompanying shafts. WRXer ‘JamesFisher1990’ is about to purchase a BRNR Mini and is torn on what shaft weight to use, and our members have been sharing their thoughts and set ups in our forum.
Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.
- PARETO: “New BRNR at 13.5. Took it over to TXG (Club Champ but TXG will always rule) in Calgary for a fit. Took the head down to 12, stuck in a Graphite Design AD at 3 wood length and 60g. Presto- numbers that rivaled my G430Max but with waaaaay tighter dispersion. Win.”
- driveandputtmachine: “Still playing a MIni 300. The head was only 208, so I ordered a heavier weight and play it at 3 wood length. I am playing a Ventus Red 70. I play 70 grams in my fairways. I use it mainly to hit draws off the tee. When I combine me, a driver, and trying to hit a draw it does not work out well most of the time. So the MIni is for that. As an aside, I have not hit the newest BRNR, but the previous model wasn’t great off the deck. The 300 Mini is very good off the deck.”
- JAM01: “Ok, just put the BRNR in the bag along side a QI10 max and a QI10 3 wood. A load of top end redundancy. But, I have several holes at my two home courses where the flight and accuracy of the mini driver helps immensely. Mine is stock Proforce 65 at 13.5, I could see a heavier shaft, but to normal flex, as a nice alternative.”
Entire Thread: “What’s the perfect Mini-Driver/Shaft combo? – GolfWRXers discuss”
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Steve Stricker WITB accurate as of the Zurich Classic. More photos from the event here. Driver: Titleist TSR3 (9 degrees, C4...
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Alex Fitzpatrick what’s in the bag accurate as of the Zurich Classic. Driver: Ping G430 LST (10.5 degrees) Shaft: Fujikura...
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View this post on Instagram A post shared by GolfWRX (@golfwrx) Driver: TaylorMade Stealth 2 Plus (10.5 degrees)...
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Dan
Jun 30, 2019 at 3:40 am
Ok, here is the real answer people. First MillHill88 has it the closest, but he’s wrong about the heavier grip helping, it actually does the opposite, it lightens swing weight more. Every inch cut is 5 swing weight points. The reason mini drivers work is the shorter length and heavier head weight. The shorter the club the heavier the head gets to balance the same. Driver is the lightest, wedges the heaviest. Solution- most drivers are too long for most to control, so get a 12 deg driver( use a bigger head with a bigger sweet spot and moi) cut it down to 44” ( old 1980’s std length) add weight to the head with lead tape to match the swing weight from before the cut. Pack of lead tape $6, new grip $5-10. Mabye no new club, just adjust current driver to max loft, take a lesson or two, and go have fun. You’re welcome.
Rich
Jun 28, 2019 at 10:09 pm
I use the Mini Driver as a replacement for my fairway wood. I played the original SLDR club, and I’ve since put the new one in the bag. I love it! When I need to get it into the fairway with some distance, it’s the best choice for me. I lose about 30 yards in distance, but the accuracy is amazing.
Tim
Jun 28, 2019 at 9:23 am
I think if someone has an issue with driver, but not the shorter clubs, its most often due to rhythm and sequence. So many golfers have poor rhythm. Everyone chops at the ball with their upper body, hoping desperately to catch it just right. That may work for short irons, but the driver requires a true golf-swing:
Turn your right pocket back and then the left pocket back. Let the club head follow freely, dragging lagging like a fish tail. Do this around a steady rotating sternum. Without a ball, swing back and forth slowly at first then let it pick up speed, making a louder and louder swish. Feel your weight pressure your right heel then your left toe.
Now put a ball in the way. Keep that sternum behind the ball and swish it past you through the ball.
JP
Jun 27, 2019 at 10:57 pm
If you can’t hit a real driver, GO GET LESSONS. It’s only the most important shot on the course.
Jay
Jun 28, 2019 at 8:59 pm
Most important shot? You might pull a driver out 14 times but that number comes down with some course management skills. A great putter might use the putter 30 times and a shitty am will hit 45-50 putts cut down on those shoot better scores. Vast majority of people would be better off hitting less club, its probably the least important shot of each hole.