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Even though most modern drivers have some sort of adapter, there are still many times when you have to pull a shaft from a fully bonded head whether it be a driver, fairway wood, or hybrid. With bonded heads, you have to be careful with a few things including using the right amount of heat, where to focus it, and properly using your tools.

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Ryan Barath is a writer & the Digital Content Creation Lead for GolfWRX. He also hosts the "On Spec" Podcast on GolfWRX Radio discussing everything golf, including gear, technology, fitting, and course architecture. He is a club fitter & master club builder who has more than 16 years experience working with golfers of all skill levels, including PGA Tour professionals. He studied business and marketing at the Mohawk College in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, and is the former Build Shop Manager & Social Media Coordinator for Modern Golf. He now works independently from his home shop in Hamilton and is a member of advisory panels to a select number of golf equipment manufacturers, including True Temper. You can find Ryan on Twitter and Instagram where he's always willing to chat golf, from course architecture to physics, and share his passion for club building, and wedge grinding.

8 Comments

8 Comments

  1. Ryan Michael

    Mar 10, 2019 at 12:27 pm

    It’s 2019 how about successfully pulling an adapter from a shaft! Many would be surprised at how precise you need to be in pulling it out perfectly straight to protect the shaft fibers on top of applying the heat just right. Not an easy job!

  2. Gunter Eisenberg

    Mar 9, 2019 at 12:38 pm

    Shaft pulling from Woods is becoming a lost art because of the adjustable adapters.

  3. 2putttom

    Mar 9, 2019 at 11:45 am

    outstanding job. Make me wanna buy a new puller.

  4. Tim S

    Mar 9, 2019 at 10:58 am

    Would be really cool if you did bore thru removal….Callaway, Titleist 905 and 906 series. Bore thru us much more intriguing. Good video though.

  5. MollyDooker

    Mar 9, 2019 at 10:29 am

    Removing a shaft because the ferrule didn’t fit correctly. LOL. Now I know I’m not the only one. Thanks!

    • Tom

      Mar 20, 2019 at 9:42 am

      Why not just buff the ferrule enough to be even with the club hosel?

  6. Merde

    Mar 9, 2019 at 9:24 am

    Seriously can we get rid of this guy
    He’s not fit to be talking

    • Rod C

      Mar 10, 2019 at 3:43 pm

      Another tiresome comment of no constructive value at all! Frankly, I found the video informative and useful and that’s what matters. Let me ask you this, what have you done to help others or do you just criticise?

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Whats in the Bag

Stewart Hagestad WITB

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Driver: TaylorMade M6 (10.5 degrees)
Shaft: Graphite Design Tour AD DI 7 X

3-wood: TaylorMade M5 (15 degrees)
Shaft: Mitsubishi Diamana S+ 80 X

Driving iron: TaylorMade P790
Shaft: Graphite Design Tour AD HY 85 X

Irons: TaylorMade P770 (4), TaylorMade P730 (5-PW)
Shafts: KBS Tour 125 S+

Wedges: Titleist Vokey SM6 (50, 54, 60)
Shafts: KBS Tour 610 Wedge 120

Putter: Scotty Cameron XPerimental Rev10

Ball: TaylorMade TP5x

Grips: Golf Pride Tour Velvet Cord

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Equipment

WRX Spotted at U.S. Open: Justin playing just Rosey with new TPT

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We are a little more than halfway through the U.S. Open at Pebble Beach, and so far the course is giving and taking as much as you would expect from a perfect setup by the USGA.

Taking the lead on Thursday and continuing to lurk into the weekend is Justin Rose. Since we have been paying close attention to his Honma golf bag all year, we noticed a shaft change in his Tour World driver.

We reached out to TPT to see if we could get an update on what Rose has put in play for what is often referred to as one of the toughest driving weeks of the year. Here’s the inside info

“Justin has put into play a TPT Golf 14 MKP-LT-SW shaft in his Honma driver. This shaft is a full 10 CPM ( Cycles per Minute ) stiffer than the 15 LKP-LT-SW shaft that he put in play at The Memorial after testing it that week. It’s also different in that it has a Mid Kick Point (MKP), where as the 15 LKP-LT-SW has a Low-Kick-Point (LKP) design.”

From a technical and fitting perspective (generally speaking) a lower kick point shaft will hit the ball higher with more spin compared to a mid or high kick point shaft if all other factors are equal. We don’t have access to his driver numbers but with the U.S. Open being played on what can always end up as a windy venue the theory would be that this change to the MKP is to help keep ball flight lower and more controlled — which will also be a benefit next month at the Open Championship.

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Forum Thread of the Day: “Best budget driver?”

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Today’s Forum Thread of the Day comes from Ivyguy who is on the lookout for the best driver to be had at an affordable price ($300 or less). Our members give their suggestions, with plenty of different drivers getting a mention.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • tbsbama: “Cobra King LTD is a wonderful driver. The pro model has lofts from 7 to 10 with fade settings. The regular from 9 to 12 with draw settings. Both heads are absolute bombers and can be found pretty cheap. Best driver I have hit in several years.”
  • zzyzxx33: “I won a Tour Edge EXS Driver, and it has been Awesome! Great Price, Look, Sound and Results! It’s longer than anything else I’ve hit.”
  • AG12: “I would say the regular PING G400…you can get new for $300 on PGA SS website, ’17 M2 is a good choice, and the M4 can be had at under $300 used in most shops.”
  • Badshaft: “I have the F8+ and bought the extra weights off of eBay (inexpensive, shipped from China)- 12g front 7g back- Blue Tensei 70g stiff. Longest for me – straight and as accurate as anything. Nice well-balanced combo. Looks to me it has the same moveable weight strategy as the F9.”

Entire Thread: “Best budget driver?”

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