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The Bandon Experience

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Do you ever have one of those memories that jumps up and slaps you in the face? It happened to me the other day. It wasn’t the first time, and I’m sure it won’t be the last. One of those memories that forces you to stop whatever it is that you are doing and reminisce. It’s been just over a year since I made the trip to Bandon, Oregon, and I still think about it often.

I find myself trying to explain the experience to friends and golf buddies back home but it’s nearly impossible to do it justice. My attempts inevitably end with “you just need to take a trip up there and see for yourself. Trust me.”

I have hit more putts from off the green in the last year than I did in 25 years of golf before that. That’s Bandon. I don’t shy away from high winds and cold temperate golf anymore. That’s Bandon. I look forward to walking 18 now and am certainly not too proud to use a pushcart. That’s Bandon. But most of all, I think I better appreciate the beauty of the game. I marvel at how gorgeous each golf course can be in its own way. And I yearn for my next chance to play golf as it was meant to be. That’s Bandon.

Before I headed to the great northwest, I read a book titled “Dream Golf: The Making of Bandon Dunes.” It tells the story of how Mike Keiser created his golf wonderland in Oregon and why he chose the architects he ended up working with. It was a tremendous read and I loved every word. And while it certainly made me more eager to arrive, it did’t prepare me for the few days of golf I had ahead of me.

Three of my best friends and I flew in from all over the country to play these courses. Nashville, Houston, Fort Worth, and San Francisco converged on a little town in Oregon. They say Bandon Dunes is like playing golf in Scotland; only it’s harder to get to. There are several different ways to arrive, but we flew to San Francisco and then took the short flight to North Bend, Oregon. There is a shuttle bus that picks you up from the airport and then takes you the remaining 30-or-so minutes to the main clubhouse.

We planned our trip in February, quite frankly, to save some money. The course fees are much cheaper in the winter months and while there is a higher chance for bad weather, we all knew that bad weather was possible year round in the Pacific Northwest anyway. We were prepared to play in less-than-ideal conditions, so we decided to pay less for it. Also, if you play two rounds a day like we did, the second 18 is priced half off. There are no carts on the property so you’ll be walking, but come on! Half off golf to play some of the best courses in the country! You need to be playing 36 a day. We booked our first 18 holes of the day in advance and then we would make an afternoon tee time the morning of. I recommend doing this if you aren’t sure which of the courses you want to play twice. It is definitely doable to hold off on waiting to make your second tee time of the day until you are on property. At least it was in February.

As incredible as the golf ended up being, I may have been more impressed with how efficiently the well-oiled Bandon machine operates. Our golf clubs, which were shipped in advance to make travel easier, were ready for us as soon as we arrived. The entire trip went this smooth. The folks at Bandon have convenience down to a science. Each clubhouse, course and practice facility is within the friendly confines of the Bandon Dunes gates. Shuttles work on a schedule that is frequent enough to prevent any downtime. Each clubhouse has a restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, all offering a unique menu to fit any taste. More on that a bit later. But imagine Disney Land for the golf nut.

The Preserve

We departed the airport shuttle, changed shoes right there on the spot and immediately headed for The Preserve, a Coore-Crenshaw designed, 13-hole par 3 course. Our luggage was handled by staff and their main priority was to make sure we got some golf in before the end of the day. We only had a couple hours of daylight left after travel, so this dynamite little track was just the right amount of golf to whet our appetite. When you make your trip to Bandon Dunes, do not be tempted to skip this course just because it is a par-3 track. Find time. Make time. Some of the best views on the property are out on The Preserve. The holes range from 63 yards to 150 yards with decision making winds on each tee. We ended up playing it again before we left for the airport at the end of our visit. The perfect bookend.

Food and Lodging

Our favorite spot to take dinner was without a doubt, McKee’s Pub. A lively atmosphere with golf history on the walls, the place is usually full of tired golfers and stories of missed birdie putts. Pro tip: the scotch eggs are a game changer. McKee’s is stocked full of good bar food and local craft brews. The meatloaf is a hefty portion and honestly, it may have saved my life after our first day of 36 holes. Above McKee’s is another bar and banquet style room where you can grab a drink if you need to wait for a table.

Every clubhouse on site has their own restaurant with a unique menu and beverage list. Trails End is within the Bandon Trails and Preserve Clubhouse and provides views of both courses. The menu is asian influenced and the noodle bowl is a legit lunch option. The Pacific Grill provides plenty of seafood dishes and it overlooks the Pacific Dunes finishing holes. It is also steps away from the Punchbowl, a 100,000 square foot putting green/course designed by Tom Doak. The PunchBowl is a fantastic way to kill an hour and practice putting on the undulated greens found on the property. There is also a green-side bar to help make the experience even more memorable. It’s a great spot to gamble a few bucks. We played two man teams and my partner was unconsciously good. So I drank for free. Thanks buddy.

The main lodge has both the Tufted Puffin Lounge and the Bunker Bar. Both spots are casual and affordable. The Bunker is also home to a billiards table, poker table and fantastic selection of spirits.

Bandon Dunes has lodging options to suit all types of guests and budgets. You can stay within the walls of the main lodge or also book from one of many apartment/condo style rooms for larger groups. We stayed in a 2 bedroom apartment with common area near Chrome Lake. The shuttles can pick you up from your room whenever you desire and take you directly to your first tee. I was genuinely shocked at how wonderfully easy it was to get around the property. Never a wasted second. And depending on the month, room rates start as low as $100 a night. But don’t spend too much on rooms. Most of our time was spent on the course.

Old Macdonald

Our first round of 18 was at Old Macdonald, named after famed course architect Charles Blair Macdonald. This was the fourth course built on property and the second track designed by Tom Doak. This time he was assisted by Jim Urbina to create the 6,944 yard (from the tips–it’s so much better from back there) par-71 course. Golf Digest’s most recent Top 100 ranking of United State’s public golf courses have all four of the Bandon tracks listed in the Top 15. Pacific Dunes comes in at number two, followed by Bandon Dunes at seven, then Old MacDonald at 10 and finally Bandon Trails at 14.

The round at Old Mac started with light dew on the ground and clouds in the sky but the temperature was pleasant enough for a light sweater. I didn’t know what to expect but whatever I had in mind, this course was different. It’s a tribute to all the classic designers with template hole after template hole. A true links style course, with the famed “Ghost Tree” visible from many spots around the course. The greens were massive and tricky, but the layout itself played incredibly fair. I think that is one of the best things about the golf at Bandon…it never was too difficult. It’s a place for golfers of all skill level to enjoy.

Old Mac had incredible ocean views, but some of the best moments of my round came from the shots that I couldn’t see at all. The course provided several elevation changes that forced us to fire at tops of flags with no pins in sight. And when we finally made it up the hill with our pushcarts, our balls could’ve been anywhere on those massive greens depending on the slope Doak and Urbina dealt to us. We only played this course one time on the trip, but I feel Old Mac is the best suited of the quartet for a drastic score improvement on the second time around. I look forward to that chance someday.

Pacific Dunes

By the time we teed off on our afternoon round at Pacific Dunes, the infamous Oregon winds had picked up. I genuinely don’t remember the first four holes because my head was down the entire time. Thankfully, we were granted some relief as the winds decided to die down and give way to clear skies. And just in time for some of the most spectacular ocean view holes I have ever played in my life.

Pacific is another Tom Doak design. The course plays to 6,633 yards and is a par 71. It was the second course built on property and a trio of par threes on the back nine were designed to best utilize the ocean frontage for several breathtaking holes.


Two of the fellas in my group decided to share a caddie for this round. The guy was a real gem and he provided us with stories that enhanced our experience a great deal. I would recommend doing this if you have a little extra money to spend. But keep in mind, you’re also going to want to break the bank on merchandise as well…each course has their own logo. One of my friends may have gone a bit overboard on gear. He’s a logo guy. And as long as we are on the subject of logos, my buddy ranks them as follows: Preserve (it really is so good), Bandon Dunes, Pacific Dunes, Punchbowl, Bandon Trails and then Old Mac.

Pacific Dunes probably has the best collection of views on property and they alone might justify the number 2 ranking on the best 100 US public courses. The high winds made it tough to judge just how difficult this course actually plays, but it really didn’t matter. Just being out there and looking around made it an enjoyable round.

As our round progressed, it became apparent that we might struggle to finish before nightfall. We picked up the pace and played ready golf but things weren’t looking good when we reached 17, a beautiful but lengthy par three over a gorge. But then the charm of Bandon showed its face. The group ahead of us, obviously realizing that we were in a race against time, waved us up and stepped aside, allowing us to hit our tee shots before they putted. We all hit and then began a somewhat lengthy walk around the gorge to the green, allowing the group ahead to putt out and proceed to the 18th tee. And we finished our round with just barely enough light to see our final putts roll in the cup. Had it not been for the kindness of those golfers on 17, whom we did not know one bit, we likely wouldn’t have finished our round. But that’s Bandon.

Bandon Trails

I went into our morning round at Bandon Trails with little excitement. I am an ocean-view kind of golfer and I had just been completely spoiled by Pacific Dunes. I knew this Coore-Crenshaw par 71 layout was all internal on the property, away from the ocean and that didn’t have my juices flowing.

By the time I had played the first three holes, all of that had changed. This course was special.


Looking back on it now, the lowest ranked course at Bandon may easily have been the round I enjoyed the most. The third course built on the property, Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw somehow found a direct line to my golf heart without distracting me with views of blue water. The routing at Trails lead my foursome through forest and dunes alike, up hills and over water. The greens were challenging but fair and the fairways attainable and inviting.

The coastal forest provided a beautiful backdrop that I had largely ignored in my Bandon preparation. Trails, in my opinion, is the most underrated of the four Bandon courses. The par 4 14th hole stands out in my mind as a hole I’d like to play over and over again. The elevated tee box looks down on a drive-able par 4 begging for an escalated swing speed. I hit driver. Of course. But the target, a hog back green, is small and deadly and full of terrors. Any miss left or right required a savvy short game to salvage a good score. It was a wonderful golf hole and a highlight of the trip. One of my playing partners would like me to mention that he made birdie, I’m sure.

When I think back on my Bandon trip, I first think of those oceans holes on Bandon and Pacific Dunes. But it doesn’t take long for my mind to take me back to Trails. From a pure golf perspective, it is the best course on property.

Bandon Dunes

I had read up more on the original 18 at Bandon Dunes than either of the other three courses. Designed by relatively unknown (at the time) Scottish architect David McLay-Kidd, the course that started it all opened in 1999 and the rest was history. Bandon Dunes plays at 6,732 yards, par 72 and winds along the pacific coast towards a climactic finish that is as good as any in golf.

Weather for our round at Bandon was ideal. Overcast, slight wind but not too cold. It turns out, our decision to play in February worked out great for us. We dealt with rain on the morning of our third day but we were still able to fit in our golf.

Golf rankers tend to rave about Pacific Dunes, but I will take Bandon over Pacific, pound for pound, any day of the week. The bunkers are deep and large and the fairways are pristine condition. And while Pacific Dunes clearly worked hard to maximize its ocean views, the flow of Bandon Dunes seemed more natural while still providing incredible coastal holes.

Hole 16 is a classic risk reward par 4. Reachable off the tee with a typical down wind, the smart play is to poke your spoon out to the raised fairway on the left. But with the pacific ocean crashing ashore to our right and the sun setting behind, we all decided to hit driver. And it worked out for a couple of us. This is arguably the most beautiful hole I’ve ever played in my life and I remember walking off the green, looking back towards the tee box thinking “wow…I am not sure it gets any better than that.”

Until I played the next hole. And then the hole after that. Both 17 and 18 are incredible golf holes in their own right. The closing stretch at Bandon Dunes is truly as good as it gets. And if you time it correctly like we did, your walk down 18 is illuminated by the setting sun bouncing off the windows of the clubhouse. Life is good.

People who visit Bandon love to rank the courses and then ask for your rank as well. Half of the conversations at McKee’s Pub are started with this very topic. And while you certainly can’t go wrong with any selection, for me it starts and ends with the original, Bandon Dunes. I’d rank Bandon Trails second, Pacific Dunes third and Old MacDonald fourth. And you know what…each of my three buddies put those courses in a different order.

There is something for everyone at Bandon Dunes. You just need to take a trip up there and see for yourself. Trust me.

 

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Johnny Newbern writes for GolfWRX from Fort Worth, Texas. His loving wife lets him play more golf than is reasonable and his son is almost old enough to ride in the cart with dad. He is a Scotty Cameron loyalist and a lover of links style courses. He believes Coore/Crenshaw can do no wrong, TMB irons are almost too hot and hole-in-ones are earned, not given. Johnny holds a degree in journalism from Southern Methodist University.

16 Comments

16 Comments

  1. Courtney Connell

    Feb 25, 2019 at 10:12 pm

    Johnny,

    Thank you for sharing your journey. Your story is well done. The photographs motivate me to pack my bags and leave for Bandon ASAP. I look forward with great enthusiasm to reading more stories.

    Best,

    Courtney

    • Johnny Newbern

      Feb 26, 2019 at 2:07 pm

      Thanks so much for the kind words, Courtney. You are a gentleman.

  2. Scott Saunders

    Feb 25, 2019 at 6:25 pm

    Experienced BD for the first time a few weeks back. Huge group from Bellingham, WA that has been going for 20 years. It was transformative. Weather was mostly amazing. Though when it did get bad, I may have had the most fun I had all week.

    As the author noted, Feb. was the perfect time to visit. Many, including caddies, noted that during warmer months the resort can be co-opted by wealthy types that change the feeling on-site. Visiting in the off-season seems to guarantee sharing the property with golf focused folk.

    36 is very do-able during the winter, but you won’t have much time to waste in between rounds. Even in February most courses were pretty busy. While there is some maneuverability with switching courses/teetimes for afternoon rounds, you may get skunked if you don’t prearrange.

    My ranking is:
    1. Old Macdonald – while you only get one real look at the ocean(7 green), the sea still plays a big role. The sound of waves is prominent from 3-15, and fine fescue tee to green gives the impression you’re golfing in UK. The course is a monster moon-scape with holes that offer endless variety of shots. It’s the only course of the four that operates as such tee to green. The greens are >14Kft2 and alone require the analysis that most other holes on property demand from tee-green. You could honestly play that course every day for the rest of your life, and never play a hole the same way twice.

    2. Pacific Dunes – Bandon perhaps has a bit more class as a big brother, but Pacific has a touch more scale on top of the views. Specifically, the green/surrounds are more complex and perilous. The greens here are noticeably firmer, demanding a touch more focus on the ground.

    3. Bandon – holes 15-17 are probably the best 3 hole stretch I’ve ever played. It’s more scorable than PD, and in that regard feels more natural.

    4. Bandon Trails – could be in any other locale in the US and be regarded as the best course in the state. It’s a totally different experience – aside from the first few and last few holes. You’ll have a blast on this course, but Bandon wouldn’t exist as it does if all the courses mirrored BT. Every other course could be the centerpiece of a world class golf resort. I just don’t feel that BT offers that sort of magic.

  3. Daniel

    Feb 25, 2019 at 6:05 pm

    Where I come from we remove our caps indoors

    • Jason

      Feb 26, 2019 at 4:26 pm

      Where I come from we don’t put up with snobbish pricks who get there panties in a wad about stupid sh*t like whether or not somebody wears a hat indoors.

      This guy writes a great, descriptive article about his golf trip to one of U.S. golf’s greatest gems, and all you can think to comment on is that???? Wow…. just, wow….

  4. Gally

    Feb 25, 2019 at 4:45 pm

    Great article. Makes me wanna go back. Had the chance this weekend but the weather was apparently right out of Perfect Storm.

    I’d put Pacific in the top spot (prolly cuz I won four skins in a group of 16) and Bandon #2. That said, you could play Bandon three out of four times and be very happy.

    Bring a set of miura baby blades and a Jones bag — doesn’t get any more pure.

    • Johnny Newbern

      Feb 26, 2019 at 2:12 pm

      Thanks Gally. One of the guys in my group was playing Muira blades out there on the trip! So funny you say that.

  5. Colin Moody

    Feb 25, 2019 at 3:22 pm

    Great feedback guys, and a very helpful article Johnny, as I am planning to play Brandon Dunes in July. The sad thing is I’m only going to get the chance to play one round, as me and the good lady wind our way up by car from SF to Seattle. This golf mad Brit really shouldn’t complain, given my long suffering, non golfing wife, is allowing me to tick off Pebble, Spyglass, Brandon and Chambers Bay from the bucket list on this trip!

  6. TVGolfer

    Feb 25, 2019 at 1:39 pm

    Johnny, one of the guys in your group looks like a member of ours from Dalhousie Golf Club. Is one of your group named Andrew?

    BTW, I did a Bandon trip in 2006 and still recount stories from it to this day. It is an epic place to play and build memories. So much different from midwestern golf. I would go back in a heartbeat!

    • Morety

      Feb 25, 2019 at 1:59 pm

      Yep, it’s me! Andrew from Dalhousie Golf Club.

      • Johnny Newbern

        Feb 25, 2019 at 2:04 pm

        Haha there you go. GolfWRX is where friends meet to greet.

      • TVGolfer

        Feb 25, 2019 at 2:30 pm

        Hey Andrew! This is awesome! I’ll buy you a beer sometime soon and we can swap Bandon stories! Great read!

  7. Andy McNiece

    Feb 25, 2019 at 12:57 pm

    People frequently ask me which one is my favorite. My answer is always “whichever one I am playing at the moment”. It is an experience almost beyond words. Your article is exceptional. The other question I often hear is “which course should I play when I go” and my answer is always “every one of them”. Your article does a really great job of describing the experience but nothing is like being there.

    • Johnny Newbern

      Feb 25, 2019 at 1:12 pm

      Thanks so much, Andy. Glad you enjoyed it! It really is a special place.

  8. ND Hickman

    Feb 23, 2019 at 5:42 pm

    Heard about this place in No Laying Up.

  9. Russell Ziskey

    Feb 22, 2019 at 6:08 pm

    Great review of the experience! Being based in Seattle I get down to Bandon 2 times every year (buddies trip in mid December, a Bandon hosted tournament in May)….the Trails phenomenon is a thing: lowest expectations at 1st, then ends up being ur favorite for many…if I had 10 rounds – 3 ea on Trails & Pac, 2 ea on Mac and Bandon…Bandon is getting a 5th course with acquition of the Sheep Ranch! No official opening date but they’ve already built 11 greens// and prob open for summer 2020…McKees Pub: the lamb stew or the chicken pot pie wil make you forget the 22,000 steps for the day…Trails and Mac are the toughest walks – caddies r invaluable on those courses
    especially if 36 is the plan…Shortys is another 9 hole par3 option right by the range // conditions aren’t as good as Preserve but it’s free and walkon // good for 8somes!!…Bunker bar is usually empty after 11pm due to sheer exhaustion so u can often have the place to yourself…

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Courses

The Pinehurst Experience

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We have all heard stories about Pinehurst. Friends have returned home to talk about its greatness. The Ryder Cup history, the U.S. Open tournaments, the cradle of American golf, and Payne Stewart’s fist held high in the air. And while the Village of Pinehurst and the ten golf courses that complete it are the primary reason to make the trip to North Carolina, we really go for the stories. To hear them and to create them. And eventually, to be able to tell them ourselves.

The story of my family’s Pinehurst Experience is one we will remember forever.

We left Texas for North Carolina with no real expectations. My wife, Shannon, and our 11-month-old baby boy William joined me. As did my mom, Tammy,  and my dad, John. None of us had been before. And, quite honestly, none of us were expecting such a perfect weekend. I wasn’t sure if this type of golf intensive trip would be a good fit for my wife and mom, both non-golfers. But there was plenty for them to do each day. I was so excited to hear how much they enjoyed their time.

Carolina Hotel at Pinehurst

We flew into Raleigh and took a rental car the remaining 70-minute drive to the Pinehurst resort. Pinehurst offers several different hotel options, but we booked our rooms in the historic Carolina Hotel. It’s the one you see in all the pictures. Built in 1901, the hotel is the definition of Carolina class. The wood floors under elegant carpet creak every few steps, reminding you that this place has held the weight of the best golfers the world has ever seen for over a century. And of course, the Ryder Cup Bar just off the hotel lobby is an immediate hat tip to the history of Pinehurst.

We arrived just after 1:30 in the afternoon, giving us enough time to check into our rooms and then head out to our first round of golf. The front desk provides you with a personalized Pinehurst bag tag which lists every tee time you have scheduled for the week. This allows for your clubs to be sent from course to course ahead of your round so you aren’t having to deal with carrying your bag around the resort. It’s seamless and convenient.

My dad and I had four rounds scheduled. First at the par-3 track, The Cradle, followed by Pinehurst No. 4, Pinehurst No. 2, and the Pinehurst No.8.

The Cradle

Shuttle buses run like clockwork all over the resort town and their affable drivers are willing to take you just about anywhere. The longest we ever had to wait for one was probably five minutes. Our clubs were waiting for us at the Clubhouse, the hub of the Pinehurst golfing community. The Clubhouse features an enormous pro-shop, locker rooms, caddie shack, The Deuce Restaurant (which overlooks the 18th green at Pinehurst No.2) and is the headquarters for courses one through five.

It’s approximately a three-minute shuttle ride from the Carolina Hotel and could easily be a nice walk if you’ve got time and good weather. It also backs up to the Thistle Dhu putting course, a 15,000 square foot putting green, complete with 18 marked holes, scorecard and beer holders on every tee. It’s a great place to spend 30 minutes. And it’s kid friendly, too.

Thistle Dhu Putting Course

We didn’t have much time but we were hungry. The bartender at the Deuce told us to make a quick burger, hot dog or sandwich at their buffet, which was perfect. We were able to get a hardy meal for $15 and give us a boost for the rest of the day. The view overlooking 18 green on No. 2 was incredible and I could’ve been just fine staying there to watch the golfers come off one of the best tracks in golf.

The Deuce Restaurant and Bar

But we headed to the Cradle, a nine-hole par three course designed by Gil Hanse in 2017. The longest hole tops out at 127 yards downhill, so a full bag is not necessary. I carried my putter and my pitching, sand and gap wedge to the first tee. The starter provided me with a carry bag and scorecard. The Cradle has been described as “the most fun 10 acres in golf” and that might be true. There are 16 speakers disguised as rocks playing music throughout the course, blasting Steve Winwood, Garth Brooks, the Rolling Stones and everything in between. Green fees at the Cradle are $50 and that gets you all day access. Kids under 17 play for free. In fact, we ended up being joined by four other golfers, one of whom was a 4 1/2 year old named Parker who had a better swing than me. We still got around the course in about an hour, including a couple of stops for drinks.

Positioned on a high part of the course behind the 3rd and 8th green sits the Pine Cone, a teardrop style camper that has been converted into a full bar. It has to be one of the coolest places to have a drink in all of golf. And with the music playing and a wedge in your hand on every shot, it’s impossible to have a bad time. Play the Cradle a couple of rounds. Have a few beers. Be happy.

    

The family met us for a drink back at the Deuce patio overlooking 18 of No. 2 and then we headed into town for dinner. The Village of Pinehurst itself is a cute little community, full of cafes, pubs, inns and shops. We were told to check out the Pine Crest Inn and to eat at Mr. B’s Lounge, a dark old bar full of golf history. Payne Stewart’s name is still prominently displayed on the wall where he signed it back in 1999. It was just yet another cool glimpse into the history of the golf town.

Breakfast the next morning (and then every morning thereafter) was at the Carolina Dining Room within our hotel. The family enjoyed a full breakfast buffet in an elegant dining room setting. The biscuits and gravy were out-of-this-world good. And the service, like everything else at the Carolina Hotel, was exquisite.

The girls had a couple of trips to the spa planned while the boys played golf. Shannon had a massage in the early afternoon while my mom watched baby Will. The next day, they flipped and my mom enjoyed some time relaxing herself. The pool at the Carolina hotel was also a huge hit with the family (especially William). They also loved going into town and shopping at the boutiques, which was only a 6 minute walk from our hotel.

I’ve experienced places like Bandon Dunes, which is a fantastic buddy golf trip location. And make no mistake, Pinehurst can be that, too. I saw countless groups of guys having a great time. But I realized that Pinehurst is an absolutely wonderful place to visit for entire families, whether they all play golf or not. And everywhere we went was kid friendly and welcoming. Just an absolute pleasure.

Pinehurst offers several options that include meal plans/stay and play packages. And I am telling you right now, it’s an experience you and your entire family will cherish.

Pinehurst No. 4

Back at the clubhouse on day two, our clubs were yet again waiting for our arrival, this time on a cart pointed towards the driving range. We hit a few balls on the spacious practice, large enough to handle the type of traffic for all five courses the clubhouse facilitates.

Pinehurst No. 4 is a new renovation from Gil Hanse and, quite honestly, a great introduction to Pinehurst golf. The fairways are lined with “waste hazard” bunkers and pine needles, which both allow for grounding of the club and removing loose impediments. Whatever you are imagining in your head when you think of Pinehurst….that’s likely Pinehurst No. 4.

No. 4 plays 6,961 yards from the men’s blue tees. There is a tee box further back that plays at 7,227 yards, but the markers are not typically set up for regular play. Honestly, that’s a shame because standing on a few of those back tee boxes, I could tell the course would be even better from back there. It’s still a tough course from the blue tees, playing to a par 72. The elevation changes make some holes play much longer than the scorecard indicates.

The property interweaves with Pinehurst No. 2, so the landscapes are similar. But the features of No. 4 seem grander in comparison. The exposed sand areas are full of native wire grass blend, making fairway misses playable but unpredictable. And the land-forms are much more dramatic on No. 4.  I was a bit surprised to see the types of elevation changes out on this course. There is a body of water that sits low in the center of the property around holes 4, 13 and 14 which provides some incredible views. When you stand on the 6th green, you can actually see parts of 15 other golf holes. It’s arguably the most beautiful view in Pinehurst.

We teed off at 9:50 on what was an unseasonably warm day for May in North Carolina. We took a cart, though the entire course was path only to preserve the pristine conditions. If the course is cart path only still when you decide to visit, I would consider hiring a caddie for this round as we ended up walking a ton anyway.

The fairways are wide and accessible and the greens are large, though they don’t play easy at all. A little local knowledge can go a long way on the greens at Pinehurst. Holes 13 and 14, in my opinion, is the best two hole stretch on the course. The first is a short par 5 but with a narrow fairway landing area off the tee between the water on the left and waste area on the right. Longer hitters can reach the green in two but the entire shot will be over water to a diagonal sloped green. It’s a wonderful risk/reward shot that I, of course, attempted with the help of some liquid courage.

The next hole stays water with a 200-yard par three to a slightly downhill green. Miss short and left and you are wet. It’s just a wonderful hole. Plenty of room right to approach the green from the front.

All in all, Gil Hanse made his mark on Pinehurst No. 4 and created a sensational companion course for the famed No. 2. If you only have a couple of rounds at Pinehurst, make sure to include both courses.

After our round, we headed out to the newly opened Pinehurst Brewery, just around the corner from our hotel. The restaurant is housed in the old Pinehurst steam power plant, which supplied the entire town their power beginning in 1895. Now it supplies the entire town with Carolina style BBQ and great local beer.

I ordered the combo platter, which came with pulled pork, chicken, sausage, and brisket. The beer was cold and the food was tasty. The pulled pork, when paired with the vinegar based East North Carolina BBQ sauce was my favorite. And this Texan actually thought the brisket was a happy substitute for what I am used to back home. My wife had a pint of the Hawaiian Delight brew, a pineapple infused beer that gave it a cider type kick. She highly recommends.

  

Pinehurst No. 2

Waking up the morning of your first ever round at Pinehurst No. 2 is a pretty special experience. I watched a couple youtube videos of Payne Stewart’s final holes in 1999 to get my mind in the right place. The first tee is tucked in a corner of hedgerows and the starter house is an exact replica of the Old Course Starters Box in Scotland, built to symbolize a bond of shared ideals and common values. St. Andrews is the home of golf and Pinehurst is the guardian of its traditions in the United States. Pretty cool.

No. 2, a Donald Ross build, opened in 1907 and Ross himself describes it as “the fairest test of championship golf I have ever designed.” It has been the host site for more single golf championships than any course in America, including U.S. Opens in 1999, 2005 and 2014.

My dad has never used a caddie in his entire life. Golf has never been his passion and, quite frankly, he was a bit self-conscious about a player of his skill set using a caddie for a round of golf. However, we shared one for Pinehurst No. 2 and his mind was changed completely. We got lucky, too, because our caddie, Andy Kurasz, was first class. Andy, or AK, has lived in Pinehurst since 1994 and has been a caddie for 15 years. With a bag on each shoulder, he was incredibly personable and friendly the entire round. Just as important, he knew this course like the back of his hand. If you get to play Pinehurst, ask for AK.

The greens at No. 2 might be the toughest I’ve ever played. Each one crowned like an upside down saucer, if you miss slightly on your approach in any direction, your ball will not likely hold the putting surface. No. 2 is most certainly a second shot golf course, forcing you to think about your approach shot before you tee off on each hole. And while the par 72 track plays at less than 7,000 yards from the men’s tees, it can be tipped out to nearly 7,600 yards for its Championships. With the complex approach shots and difficult greens, I can’t even imagine how tough this course would be at that length.

But the course is fair. Most fairways are lined with those famous sandy waste areas and the pine trees even wider still allow for punch outs off the pine needles. Our caddie Andy said this is the hardest course we will ever play without losing a golf ball. And he was right. We both got through it without a lost ball penalty. Andy also saved us each several strokes per side, always giving us the right target, right line, proper encouragement and reminding us to slow down our tempo and “enjoy your backswing.”

Donald Ross, who also built his home on the course, was brilliant in his routing. The course evolves naturally and uses the contours of the land to play tricks in your mind. If the fairway slopes hard right to left, like it does on the par 4 fourth, the green will slope the opposite direction, which makes putts feel like they will break a completely different way from the actual line. You need a caddie.

Home of Donald Ross

In 2010, the design team of Bill Coore and Ben Crenshaw worked to restore No. 2 to the original design. Dozens of acres of turf was removed to reintroduce the hardpan natural bunkers and native grasses to the course. The No. 2 of today is essentially the course as it was in 1907. And it’s perfect.

Walking up 18 fairway is one of those special moments in golf. The clubhouse is behind the green, full of people enjoying food and drink from the Deuce, sitting on rocking chairs and enjoying the golfers approach shots. Also in view is the Payne Stewart statue, striking that famous pose after his winning putt poured in to win the U.S. Open. I hit my drive right and had to escape short of the green. My caddie simply said “That’s okay, let’s go get up and down just like Payne did.” What an incredible feeling to play a course with so much history.

Our family was waiting for us just off the back of the green. The fitting end to a perfect day on Pinehurst No. 2.

We had dinner that night at the Carolina Room in our hotel, which, as usual, was first class. A traditional steak and fish menu with an impressive wine list to accompany. But after a long day of strategic golf on one of the world’s toughest courses, I went to sleep early and dreamed of true approach shots at waving flags.

Pinehurst No. 8

My final round at Pinehurst was on the Centennial Course, Pinehurst No. 8. The Tom Fazio design was built to celebrate Pinehurst’s 100th anniversary and it has a different style and feel to both No. 2 and No. 4. Interestingly, the course was built on the site of the old Pinehurst Gun Club, where Annie Oakley used to give shooting lessons and exhibitions.

The shuttle ride takes a few extra minutes to get to No. 8’s stand alone clubhouse. And those extra minutes change the landscape dramatically. The fairways at No. 8 are lined with a cut of rough on most holes, as opposed to the natural sand areas seen on the other courses I played. And the course is tucked in to a more heavily populated forest of trees, giving this course a more secluded feel. The par 72 plays at 6694 yards, but there are many more opportunities for lost balls here. Water and marsh land comes in to play on several holes, giving off a low country course vibe.

 

I had a 9:00 am tee time but was able to get off at 7:30 in order to make sure we had enough time to get to the airport later that day. I played this round alone and was the first man off, which allowed me to get around the course in a little over 2 hours in a cart. It was an amazingly peaceful round. After playing No. 4 and No. 2, this was a pleasant contrast.

The par-3 8th hole is perhaps the most beautiful hole I played at Pinehurst. At 204 yards, the tee shot still requires accuracy to the left side in order to avoid the well placed natural marshland short and right. The greens at No. 8 are large but less severe than those found on No.4 and No. 2, to make up for the more difficult marshy hazards on the course.

 

I am glad I played No. 8. It’s a different style course than I expected to find at Pinehurst, but it complements the experience. I would recommend you include it as a part of your Pinehurst trip as well.

After the round, we had just enough time for a visit to the Village of Pinehurst for a quick bite to eat. Our rental car was already loaded up by the Carolina Hotel staff, proving once again that they do everything right at the resort. While in town, we stumbled across the Old Sport and Gallery boutique, owned and operated by former professional golfer Tom Stewart. It was an incredible collection of golf history, books, art and antiques. And speaking with Mr. Stewart for a few minutes made me wish I had another day in Pinehurst to hear his stories. This is a must visit for any golf fan.

 

And with that, our Pinehurst trip was over. We played incredible courses, ate wonderful food, received first-class hospitality everywhere we went and created those Pinehurst stories we’ve heard about all our lives. Now they are ours to keep and to share. I hope you visit one day soon so you can create your own stories, too.

Just remember to “enjoy your backswing.”

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Brough Creek National: The backyard course you wish you’d built

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Raise your hand if you’ve ever wanted a golf course in your backyard.

Of course you have.

Now leave your hand raised if you actually rolled up your sleeves and made it happen.

Among the very few people left with their hands in the air are Ben Hotaling, Zach Brough, Evan Bissell, and Mark Robinson, the driving force behind Brough Creek National. That’s right. These guys are building a golf course in their backyard. From scratch.

The true beginnings of golf aren’t well-documented, but one thing’s for sure: people were playing golf at least 400 years before the first working internal combustion engine. Long before golf course architecture was a multi-million dollar investment before the first dime of revenue trickled in, courses were laid down largely by hand using the natural movement of the land. In that same spirit, Ben happened to notice that there was one particular shot in their backyard that reminded him of the Road Hole at St. Andrews, as it plays over their barn and to a green situated right in front of the road to the property.

Ben ultimately convinced his roommate Zach, whose family has owned the land for some time, that they should clear some trees and put in a makeshift green for their Road Hole. That was in 2015 and, while that’s technically the genesis of Brough Creek National, it was in 2018 when they started sharing their ideas in No Laying Up’s online forum section that things escalated rather quickly. Bouncing ideas off their fellow compatriots revealed great natural setups for a Biarritz/punch bowl combination, a Redan, and more. Before they knew it, they had a 630-yard, 7-hole golf course criss-crossing through the three-acre property in Kansas City, KS.

Road Hole green at Brough Creek National

Perhaps the most impressive aspect of Brough Creek National is that it has operated solely off of donations, which started with a weed eater here and a can of herbicide there and has since grown to a recent GoFundMe campaign of $15,000. These donations have allowed them to purchase grass seed and other vital equipment to see the project through. The community aspect of Brough Creek National is so important to what they’re trying to achieve that anyone who provides their name and address on the website is sent a free new membership packet (I happen to be member #209). Included are some stickers, a ballmark, and a welcome letter that states (among other things),

“We are proud to have you as a lifetime national member at our exclusive, member-owned (and maintained) club…The vision of Brough Creek National is to have a place for community golf modeled around fun for members and guests from all golfing backgrounds…Your dues will be assessed at the rate of $0.00 annually.”

Ben further emphasizes the importance of the community aspect by saying:

“I think Brough Creek stands for community. It’s like-minded individuals coming together and supporting something they’re proud of. It’s a smart, intriguing golf course, but it’s ultimately about making friends and that’s what matters. The quality of the golf course is almost inconsequential because the real purpose is to assemble this brotherhood of people who are passionate about the game of golf. We think it’s done in a way that sheds the elitist stigma that golf has often struggled with and we’re almost mocking that in a playful way.”

“I’m not going to tell anyone they have to experience the game a certain way, but we try to go above and beyond to be approachable and welcoming because we think that’s more important than status. Golf’s not a money-making business. It’s just not. So, why don’t we just take that out of it, come together as a community, and create something we can all be proud of?”

If we’re all having an honest moment, not even Ben and Zach know exactly how this project is going to evolve, but one thing’s for sure: an emphasis on maximizing fun for the highest number of the golfing community is never a bad place to start. Those who believe par and total yardage are irrelevant in determining the amount of fun available to them should be in for a treat. To watch the project unfold, check out www.someguysbackyard.com and follow @someguysbackyrd on Twitter and @someguysbackyard on Instagram.

Below is an overview of the course, narrated by Ben Hotaling

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Courses

Ari’s Course Reviews: Bethpage Black

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Bethpage’s Black course was designed by A.W. Tillinghast and opened for play in 1936. It was immediately considered one of the best tests of golf in the world, and it has tested golfers coming from all over the world in its 83-year history. Bethpage State Park itself has five courses. The Green was the first course built and was originally called Lennox Hills Country Club. In the early 1930s, the Bethpage Park Authority purchased Lennox Hills CC and other adjacent property and turned the whole thing into what is now known as Bethpage State Park. Course architect A.W. Tillinghast was hired to remodel what would become the Green course as well as build the Blue, Red, and finally the Black. The Yellow Course was designed by Alfred Tull and opened in 1958.

Bethpage first hosted a major championship in 2002 when it hosted the U.S, Open. What is somewhat forgotten 17 years later as it hosts its third major, is how much the course had fallen into disrepair by the mid-1990s. Luckily, the USGA could see through all of that and helped fund a complete restoration that was overseen personally by Dave Catalano, the larger than life (in both stature and personality) head of Bethpage State Park. Dave had been working at Bethpage since he was a kid in 1967, picking up papers in the picnic area. It was his baby, and with Rees Jones by his side, they painstakingly restored the Black to its former greatness and into a true championship test of golf. After the PGA Championship, the Black will be back in the spotlight 2024 as host of the Ryder Cup, joining a very short list of courses to host a U.S. Open, a PGA Championship, and a Ryder Cup.

Playing the Black is one of the most unique experiences in the game because of what it takes to get a tee time. There are a very limited number of tee times. They are easier to get if you are a NY resident, but for most of us, it’s first come, first serve. Which in practical terms means they have a parking lot with numbered spaces and people start showing up the day before to sleep in their cars to play. In fact, I can proudly say that the last three times I slept in my car it was just to play at Bethpage. One of those times I didn’t even get out on the Black and had to settle for playing the Red! Should have eaten dinner in the car I guess….

Every time I have slept in the car I have had a great time. It’s a party in the lot with a bunch of golfers hanging out all excited to play the next day. There’s usually a few beers around and one of the times, someone called a cab and went and got 50 cheeseburgers from McDonald’s at 1 a.m. to show us all some top-notch NY hospitality! That’s definitely not an experience you will have going to play any other top courses!

Once you finally do get to sleep, the staff wakes you up around 4 a.m. to go get in line and get your tee time and course assignment. Then you can go back to sleep or go eat breakfast or hit balls or whatever you want until it’s your turn to tee off. On your way to the tee, you see the famous WARNING sign telling you that the Black Course is an extremely difficult course which they recommend only for highly skilled golfers. Hopefully, you didn’t lose your tee ticket because you will need that to get onto the tee and trust me, they aren’t messing around with the rules!

The golf course itself sits on a huge, sprawling, fantastic piece of land with abundant elevation change and lots of random contours. The bunkering is big and bold and not to be messed with. There is abundant long fescue and numerous trees off to the sides of the holes which combined with the beautiful bunkering makes for a very beautiful setting.

The first hole is a downhill, almost 90-degree dogleg right. The fairway is pretty flat and so is the well-bunkered green. The key for the player is to put their drive into the right place in the fairway to get a good angle to the hole location. From here you cross Round Swamp Rd and head to the second, which is a short, uphill par 4 of 389 yards. The fairway slants a little right to left and the green is elevated and can be a challenge to hold. The third is a par 3 that plays about 160 yards normally but has been brought back to 230 the PGA. This is one of the more interesting greens on the course; it’s wide on the right and falls away as it gets to the back and tapers to a smaller, more narrow section on the left. Bunkers flank the short left and right side of the green.

The fourth hole is vintage Bethpage Black and probably the most photographed on the course. A huge bunker flanks the left side of the fairway off the tee of the 517-yard par-5. Another, even more huge bunker looms at the end of the fairway cut into the from right to left. The tee shot is downhill but the rest of the hole is uphill. There is a second fairway to layup over the big bunker where you will have a partial view of the small, flattish green that falls away slightly and is protected by two more deep bunkers to the front and left. The fifth is a monster par 4 of almost 480 yards. A massive fairway bunker guards the right side of the fairway which is also the best angle to come into the small, elevated green guarded by two deep bunkers short and one over the green.

FARMINGDALE, NEW YORK – MAY 15: A general view of the fifth green is seen during a practice round prior to the 2019 PGA Championship at the Bethpage Black course on May 15, 2019 in Farmingdale, New York. (Photo by Stuart Franklin/Getty Images)

No. 6 gets back into the more open and less tree-lined part of the property. The tee shot is semi-blind and over a hill. The landing area is pinched by bunkers on both sides. The long hitter who can carry the hill should have a very short shot into the flattish, oval shaped green that’s open in front and protected by bunkers on both sides. No. 7 is a converted par 5 that plays as a par 4 for the PGA. At 524 yards, it’s very long and the tee shot requires a long poke over another large fairway bunker. The green is again pretty flat and protected by deep bunkers in front.

The eighth hole is unique for the Black as it’s the only hole with water in play. A 210-yard drop shot to a green with some slope from right to left and front to back and a ridge running on a diagonal angle through the middle of the green. The shot must carry the pond short of the green and there is a deep bunker left and a hillside right. Nine is a 460-yard hard dogleg left that drops down off the tee and back up to the green. Another very deep bunker guards the left side and can be carried by the longer hitter. The right side of the fairway is the safe play off the tee but leaves an awkward shot out of a gully up to the green. The green is heavily guarded in front again by deep bunkers.

As the players make the turn, they are confronted with another long, tight par 4 of just over 500 yards. Hitting the fairway is key here as the fairway is heavily guarded by bunkers and fescue. The green sits on the other side of a little gully and is guarded once again by a set of deep bunkers. The 11th hole is 435 yards and has probably the most interesting green on the course. It has a little false front and two distinct tiers with some nice internal movement. A really good green on any course it stands out on the Black amongst what is mostly a flatter set of greens. 12 forces the players to carry it 285 over a massive cross bunker on the 515-yard par 4. The green is back to the more typical flattish oval, and characteristically is guarded in the front on both sides by deep bunkers. 13 is a par 5 of over 600 yards. One of the least bunkered holes on the course, there are a few bunkers on the left and a great little cross bunker about 60 yards short of the green that obscures the view of the green and will make the players think twice about going for the green in two. 14 is the best chance for birdie on the course. A par 3 that plays only 160 yards over a valley to a narrow, long green.

After walking off the 14th green the players cross back over Round Swamp Road to the home stretch of the course. 15 is always the hardest hole on the course for me when I play the Black. The hole plays 460 yards. The tee shot is flat to a fairway that bends slightly right to left and has no bunkers. The second shot is massively uphill. Over a hillside set with bunkers and a small section of fairway to a green set into the top of the hill and guarded by the deepest bunkers on the course. A very hard hole to make par if you miss the fairway or miss the green. The 16th has a downhill tee shot that will test the player’s judgement of the wind if there is any present. The green is well guarded especially to the right and is small with a little slant to it. The 17th is an uphill brute of a 210-yard par 3. The green is 45 yards wide and is huge. However, it does not look big from the tee as it is set amongst a veritable minefield of bunkers waiting to swallow up any wayward shots. The players walk up a hill to the 18th tee and stare down at a fairway that gets severely pinched in the middle by the huge bunkers on both sides. The green is then back uphill, it’s medium sized with a slight kidney shape and two deep, artistically shaped bunkers set into the hillside short.

All of this adds up to a great test of championship golf.  The course is pretty straightforward. There is not a ton of strategy other than hit it long and straight and make as many putts as you can. The greens are mostly pretty flat so there should be a lot of chances for birdie for those that can reach the greens in regulation. That said, the course has a ton of character when it comes to the land movement and elevation changes as well as the massive, artistic bunkers. New Yorkers are VERY proud of the Black and for a very good reason. It’s a fantastic golf course. Golf needs more top courses like the Black that are accessible to everyone and challenging to even the best players in the world.

 

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