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2019 TaylorMadeTP5 and TP5x golf balls feature High-Flex Material

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Announced today, TaylorMade is set to update its premium tour balls, the TaylorMade TP5 and TaylorMade TP5x, next month.

At the core behind both golf balls is TaylorMade’s new High-Flex Material (HFM). The new material, which TaylorMade has described as its “fastest material” ever, is a tightly wound spring, which is designed to create more rebound energy when compressed for added ball speed.

The tightly wound spring characteristic of HFM also aims to increase the force on the driver face, to further improve the speed of the golf ball as soon as it leaves the driver head.

2019 TP5 cutaway.

The HFM is integrated into TaylorMade’s new Speed-Layer System, which is comprised of four increasingly stiff layers, creating a Speed-Layer System that enables a soft core to be wrapped by increasingly rigid materials, allowing each outer layer to become progressively faster with the aim of controlling spin rates without affecting speed or distance.

Speaking on the new releases from TaylorMade, and its brand new HFM material, Director of Golf Ball R&D, Eric Loper, stated

“With the new TP5 and TP5x golf balls, we knew there was an opportunity to make them even faster. Our research into the driver and ball interaction at the moment of impact along with the development of a new material (HFM) has given us the ability to more efficiently convert compression into speed, at any swing speed. The new Speed-Layer System (SLS) controls spin rates that is critical for driver, iron and wedge performance.”

The new balls from TaylorMade both feature a Tri-Fast Core consisting of an extra-large, low-compression inner core (16 compression in TP5 & 25 compression in TP5x) and a progressively stiffer outer core and mantle. The combination of these cores is designed to create lower drag and increased carry for all level of swing speeds.

2019 TP5x cutaway.

As well as this, the 2019 TP5 and TP5x golf balls contain a Dual-Spin-Cover which holds an ultra-soft cast urethane cover and a 30% more rigid inner cover, which aims to provide excellent control on greenside shots through the rigid inner cover forcing the soft urethane cover into wedge grooves. The new Soft-Tough cast urethane cover has also been introduced to provide greater overall durability.

According to TaylorMade, the TP5 ball has a softer feel, launches lower on iron shots and is targeted at golfers who desire more spin around the green, while the TP5x contains a firmer feel and is designed for players wishing to generate higher launching iron shots.

The 2019 TP5 and TP5x will both be available at retail on February 15, 2019. The cost of both golf balls is $44.99 per dozen.

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14 Comments

14 Comments

  1. NoDonkeys

    Jul 1, 2019 at 10:45 pm

    Matt Kuchar sucks donkey.

  2. Art Williams

    Jan 4, 2019 at 8:18 pm

    Over the last few weeks it’s obvious 2019 is the year of fast, faster and fastest. The espionage among and between the big golf companies must be fast and furious as they bring out similar products in similar colors with similar marketing schemes. Must be a lot spies employed by them, especially Callaway and Taylor Made. I noticed they both were very fast to exceed the $500 ceiling.

  3. WB

    Jan 4, 2019 at 2:12 am

    I gained 14 yards on the driver when I went from Tour Preferred X to TP5X. If the new TP5X gets only 3 yards more I’m in.

  4. David

    Jan 3, 2019 at 11:14 am

    These must be pretty bad since they didn’t jack the price 30%. TM must know they don’t perform well enough to deserve the same price increases as the rest of their line.

    • Frank

      Jan 3, 2019 at 4:41 pm

      Must be David. Keep dropping nearly $60 on that “superior” ProV1

      • KM01

        Jan 4, 2019 at 7:50 am

        At the end of the day Pro V is superior. I still think TM are having their balls made by someone else so the probability is that some of them probably don’t even have 5 layers, when you look at how bad the rest of their quality control is. I tried TP5 last time around and it doesn’t spin enough through the bag.
        It’s obvious what they’re going for in their marketing blurb. Distance off the driver. That’s always the first thing they say in everything they say.
        Thing is, I’m still only going to be hitting max 14 drives in a round. So the majority of my shots I need more control. You don’t get that with something that doesn’t spin.

        • Daniel Forbes

          Jan 5, 2019 at 4:36 am

          Realistically if you are hitting max 14 drives per round, then u probably dont hit it well enough for spin to be an issue. I hit 14 drivers almost every time i play. Obviously playing a distance ball will prob hurt me… but Playing a proV isn’t going to improve my score at all. Unfortunately taylormade realised they could charge a lot more and did so. So the range of balls available that all qork the same is huge for amatuers now

          • KM01

            Jan 5, 2019 at 3:30 pm

            This comment makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. How could hitting at most 14 drives in a round mean that you don’t hit it well enough to worry about spin? You do realise that most golf courses would have 4 par 3’s meaning, realistically you would only ever have to hit driver at very most 14 times, and on shorter par 4’s you’d hit irons! I’ve played 2 British amateur championships, and have had quite a good amateur career…
            There’s no such thing as a distance ball and a spin ball anymore. This isn’t the days of persimmon woods and balata balls.
            Spin does not just come in to play on shots green side. It’s on every shot you hit. Every golfer needs a certain amount of spin to keep their ball airborne, depending on their launch characteristics.
            Please have a proper ball fitting. You might just learn something…

  5. Thomas A

    Jan 3, 2019 at 10:48 am

    So they are TP5-ier?

  6. bill

    Jan 3, 2019 at 10:20 am

    having to click read more is really annoying. just show the full article

    • Gil

      Jan 4, 2019 at 7:21 pm

      Who do you claim is making their balls? Why do you question TM’s quality control?

      • KM01

        Jan 6, 2019 at 5:04 am

        That’s a fact. Look it up. There is only one company who actually manufacture their own golf balls. Everyone else buys in.
        Have you not seen TM’s product the past few years? The rubber in the speed slots on irons has been falling out, iron faces caving in, and some of the loft and lies) swing weights that I’ve had delivered to my shop have been so far out its unbelievable. A couple of years ago, I had an M2 4 iron arrive which was to be standard loft/lie and it was 17*. Quality control is worse than terrible.

    • Daniel

      Jan 5, 2019 at 4:27 am

      That is dumbest thing ive ever ive ever read.. u have to scroll down anyway so i dont think clicking 1 button will kill u..

  7. Thunder Bear

    Jan 3, 2019 at 10:12 am

    Of all things releasing this year, I’m most excited about the golf balls coming out. Seems like every company is on the same release schedule with golf balls so I plan to take them all out and do a battle royale to find the best ball. I’ve played the TP5x for a couple years and really excited to see if their claims are actually true.

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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