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When it comes to fine tuning a golf shaft and matching clubs within a set, frequency and CPM play a critical role in build quality and making sure what you were fit for is what gets built for you.

This video explains the purpose of a frequency machine, as well as how the information it gives us relates to both building and fitting your clubs.

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Ryan Barath is a club fitter and master club builder who has more than 15 years experience working with golfers of all skill levels, including PGA Tour professionals. He studied business and marketing at the Mohawk College in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada, and is the former Build Shop Manager & Social Media Coordinator for Modern Golf located in Toronto. He now works independently from his home shop in Hamilton and is a member of advisory panels to a select number of golf equipment manufacturers, including True Temper. You can find Ryan on Twitter and Instagram where he's always willing to chat golf, from course architecture to physics, and share his passion for club building, and wedge grinding.

8 Comments

8 Comments

  1. Benny

    Feb 22, 2018 at 7:28 pm

    great article Ryan. I was under the impression that “flowing” shafts was only good for steel and the overlap of metal, or crease. Where graphite shaft now a days are made so well there is no crease. Either way great article and once again jamokes on here get so critical. As if its the Ten Commandments being written in stone. Seriously its just a golf article..

  2. Jim Mapother

    Feb 21, 2018 at 3:05 pm

    Ryan- if you start with the 6 iron cpm when you build a set do the rest of the irons have the same frequency as the 6 or do they change and if they change by how much?

  3. FifteenClubs

    Feb 19, 2018 at 4:49 pm

    Ryan – I get why consistent swingweight and frequency matching are important but what are your thoughts on finding the spine and more specifically FLOing irons and driver? Just magic fairy dust or worth the time and effort? Opinions seems to be all over the board on this.

    • Ryan Barath

      Feb 19, 2018 at 7:17 pm

      This is and will continue to be a tough question to address.

      From a physics standpoint it makes sense when you consider that the club is checked on a horizontal plane. BUT and here’e the counter point – the club travels on multiple plains and is also subject to centrifugal forces and rotation. I’m not really on either side to be honest, but will say I play all clubs with shafts logo down.

      • skip

        Feb 20, 2018 at 1:24 pm

        agreed. there’s just too many variables in the game to have a definitive end-all answer. Probably more magic fairy dust, but if it provides you a psychological advantage of piece of mind, then I guess it’s worth it to you.

      • Bananana

        Feb 20, 2018 at 5:43 pm

        “centrifugal forces”? Could you please enumerate these centrifugal forces? Oh, and what “rotation” are you referring to… flex? torque? Science demands answers if you use scientific jargon.

  4. NolanMBA

    Feb 19, 2018 at 3:34 pm

    I dont know if this is relevant to my little problem but I have a PW that came in my Callaway Apex Pro set and I cant hit that club for the life of me. But I can hit the 8 & 9 iron and call the carry yardage +/- 2 yds on a launch monitor. It just doesnt made sense to me.

    • Ryan Barath

      Feb 19, 2018 at 7:12 pm

      Thats a tough one, have you been to a fitter to possibly address the potential issue?

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WATCH: How to hit your driver more consistently

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In this video, I share two great drills that will help you improve your driving today.

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3 keys for getting out of bunkers with soft sand

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One of the most infuriating things in golf is to land in a bunker that has too much sand, or sand with the consistency of a truckload of talcum power. Now, I am not picking on the Superintendents; they do have to add new sand from time-to-time, so no hate mail please! It’s my fault for hitting it in the bunker in the first place, and bunkers are supposed to be hazards; I know that.

The one thing we will assume for this article is that even though we are in soft sand, we will have a good lie, not a plugged or semi-plugged one. We are in a bunker that just has a bunch of sand, or it’s soft and fluffy sand. Everyone asks me what the secret is to handling these types of conditions and I’m here to help you get better.

1) Get a wedge with the correct bounce

Let’s consider that you play the same golf course every weekend, or that you mostly play on courses that have the same type of playing conditions mostly. When you have this luxury, you should have wedges that fit the conditions you tend to play. So, if you have a low bounce wedge with a sharp flange and you’re playing from bunkers with lots of sand, then you are putting yourself at a disadvantage.

Why alter your swing if the wedge you have can help you? Use a high bounce wedge (9-12 degrees of bounce) for soft sand, and a low bounce wedge (6-8 degrees) for firm sand.

2) Control your Angle of Attack 

As with most things in golf, there are always things that you must pay attention to in order for you to have the odds in your favor. Simple things such as paying attention to the lie you have can help you save shots in the rough. In bunkers, you cannot test the surface, however, you can use your feet to feel the density of the sand. Pay attention to what you feel in the balls of your feet. If you feel a ton of sand below you, then you know you will have to alter your angle of attack if you want any chance to get out of the bunker successfully.

So what do I mean by this?

The setting of your wrists has a very dynamic effect on how much the wedge digs in or skids through the sand (assuming you have an open face). When there is a surplus of sand, you will find that a steeper attack caused by the maximum cocking of your wrists makes it much easier for the wedge to work too vertical and dig too deep. When you dig too deep, you will lose control of the ball as there is too much sand between the blade and the ball — it will not spin as much and won’t have the distance control you normally have.

The secret to playing from softer sand is a longer and wider bunker swing with much less wrist-set than you would use on your stock bunker shot. This action stops the club from digging too deep and makes it easier for you to keep moving through the ball and achieving the distance you need.

3) Keep your pivot moving

It’s nearly impossible to keep the rotation of your shoulders going when you take too much sand at impact, and the ball comes up short in that situation every time. When you take less sand, you will have a much easier time keeping your pivot moving. This is the final key to good soft-sand bunker play.

You have made your longer and more shallow backswing and are returning to the ball not quite as steeply as you normally do which is good… now the only thing left to do is keep your rear shoulder rotating through impact and beyond. This action helps you to make a fuller finish, and one that does not lose too much speed when the club impacts the sand. If you dig too deep, you cannot keep the rear shoulder moving and your shots will consistently come up short.

So if you are in a bunker with new sand, or an abundance of sand, remember to change your bounce, adjust your angle of attack, and keep your pivot moving to have a fighting chance.

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WATCH: How to stop “flipping” through impact

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Are you flipping through impact? In this video, I share a great drill that will help you put better pressure on the golf ball at impact. By delivering the sweet spot correctly, you’ll create a better flight and get more distance from your shots immediately.

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