Connect with us

Equipment

Titleist is releasing new “AVX” premium golf balls, made for more distance

Published

on

GolfWRX has learned that Titleist is testing new “AVX” golf balls — made with premium performance urethane covers and designed for more distance and a softer feel — in three different markets. The new three-piece golf balls will hit the shelves of golf shops and retail stores for the same price as Titleist’s Pro V1 and Pro V1x golf balls on October 6 in only Florida, California and Arizona to evaluate the demand for such a product.

Discussion: See what GolfWRX members are saying about Titleist’s AVX golf balls here

cfe771fa986761015447b2c436114d7c

The golf balls will be available in both white and high optic yellow based on the photos of the packaging and golf balls.

8118120b6c84536445bb29f50acf0963

According to language written on Titleist’s AVX packaging, the golf balls will have a new, “high speed,” low-compression core that’s designed for a softer feel and more distance. There is also a “high flex casing layer” to enhance speed and control spin. The “GRN41 urethane cover” is said to deliver scoring control, a soft feel and durability.

fd53c71427040fa575ff7411543316a6

It’s clear from the photos we’ve obtained that the AVX golf balls feature a new dimple pattern, at least compared to the Pro V1 and Pro V1x golf balls. According to the packaging, it’s a “352 tetrahedral catenary dimple design” to make it more aerodynamic for flight consistency.

Discussion: See what GolfWRX members are saying about Titleist’s AVX golf balls here

Your Reaction?
  • 335
  • LEGIT33
  • WOW22
  • LOL21
  • IDHT12
  • FLOP39
  • OB24
  • SHANK188

We share your golf passion. You can follow GolfWRX on Twitter @GolfWRX, Facebook and Instagram.

71 Comments

71 Comments

  1. Tyler Brooke

    Oct 23, 2017 at 12:00 pm

    For Dummies Version: A ball that will go father then their prov and prov1X but is supposed to perform better around the greens and on the green.

    They also flight iron shots lower and come hot off the face.

  2. Bert

    Oct 20, 2017 at 8:09 pm

    Played the ball today for the first time. Felt good off club face and checked well on full shots into the greens. Distance was OK, not sure I picked up any with my 85 MPH swing speed. What I didn’t like about the ball was how it played for short pitch shots. I usually play a gap wedge, if possible, within 60-30 yards and it will bounce once, twice and then bite hard. This ball felt good but would bounce once, twice and then let go and roll. It tried to get it to bite off tight lie, but usually let go and rolled out more than I like. I switched to the B-330 RXS and got the check I wanted. I hit a few side by side and noticed the difference in bite characteristics. I could get used to it, but not sure. I did like the reaction off my driver, like I mentioned, not sure it was any longer, but flight was good for me. I’ll play them for a few more rounds and get a better feel.

  3. Jerry

    Oct 19, 2017 at 6:01 pm

    What is GRN41 Urethane??

    Not as spinny as their Elastomer Urethane in the ProV1?

    AVX – Amateur VX (ProV1X)

  4. Mat

    Oct 13, 2017 at 11:22 pm

    NXT + Urethane…

  5. Mad-Mex

    Sep 24, 2017 at 4:06 am

    Heard next year they will have a rubber wound balata covered premium golf ball,,,,,,

  6. Bobo

    Sep 23, 2017 at 3:46 pm

    The upgrade to the AVX is now in the minds and mill of the folks at Titleist.
    AVX now….. BWY coming soon!!! (CXZ next year).

  7. Mike Tomasi

    Sep 23, 2017 at 2:15 pm

    They should have just come out with a 70 compression pro v1 and called it the pro v1s. Just my marketing idea.

    • SK

      Sep 23, 2017 at 6:02 pm

      AVX now…. BWY soon…. CXZ coming next year…. otherwise no change

  8. retired04

    Sep 23, 2017 at 6:28 am

    Slower swing speed? Try the Srixon Q Star Tour and do your own comparison. I’m 70. 75-77 swing speed-took the time to hit dozens of full and short game shots actually comparing the Pro Vs to the Srixon ball and the Srixon ball was as good or better at $30 or less per dz.. Had to convince myself and I did.

  9. BO

    Sep 22, 2017 at 9:24 pm

    urethane…. non-urethane…..uranusthane?

  10. 2putttom

    Sep 22, 2017 at 4:12 pm

    lol .. these comments and responses remind me of public comment time at a city council meeting

    • abxgolf

      Sep 22, 2017 at 4:58 pm

      golf clubs and balls are gearhead heaven and let no man put that asunder

  11. James Strachan

    Sep 22, 2017 at 3:57 pm

    VICE are made in yellow.

    • abxgolf

      Sep 22, 2017 at 4:59 pm

      try finding one of those in autumn leaves lol

  12. Jack Nash

    Sep 22, 2017 at 3:48 pm

    Re-Branding
    Re-Engineering
    Re-Thinking
    Re-Imagining (the latest BS acronym)
    Re-Jigging
    Re-Treading

    All great ideas run thru the Constant Mill of failed actual new ideas.

    3 piece balls go far Correct.
    3 piece balls can have a soft cover.
    3 piece balls will never have enuff spin greenside.

    • abxgolf

      Sep 22, 2017 at 4:57 pm

      rush down to yer nearest big box golf mecca store and buy a dozen or two is you loose lotsa balls.

  13. DrB

    Sep 22, 2017 at 1:33 pm

    It is their way of catching up to Bridgestone, Callaway, Wilson (!), and perhaps others without having to eat crow and change their narrative of the last few years. Titleist has always maintained that either ProV1 or ProV1x is the best ball for your game regardless of your swing speed. (Their other balls exist for those players for whom price is a consideration.) Other companies have brought out tour-quality balls optimized for sub-100mph swings and have found great success with customers. So, Titleist had a problem: they could ignore the success of the likes of the Chrome Soft, B330RX, et al, and continue to lose market share, or come up with a new ball optimized for the sub-100mph swing that has a urethane cover, great distance, tour-quality short game performance, but not contradicting their previous proclamations that ProV1(x) is still best for everyone. Enter the AVX

  14. asugrad1988

    Sep 22, 2017 at 12:36 pm

    It sounds like the Bridgestone E5 golf ball. 3 piece ball with a urethane cover. About $20 a dozen.

    • Jack Nash

      Sep 22, 2017 at 3:49 pm

      Add the name Titleist and double the cost. Re-Branding.

    • Mat

      Oct 13, 2017 at 11:20 pm

      And probably not as good as the e5.

  15. MamasBoy

    Sep 21, 2017 at 10:55 pm

    Mo’ distance….. Lo spin…… Hi shot….. Hit da pin

  16. Speedy

    Sep 21, 2017 at 8:51 pm

    No thanks, another of their overpriced balls.

  17. MamasBoy

    Sep 21, 2017 at 5:00 pm

    “made for more distance”??
    I need more distance so I’m gonna switch to AVX and they will match my PXG’s
    AVX + PXG = APXXVG ….. woooh

  18. Rich

    Sep 21, 2017 at 10:55 am

    Flat dimples , looks like the Wilson Staff C golf ball of a few years ago. It seems Wilson Duo had it right after all, Callaway has copied it in the soft, TaylorMade has tried to copy the idea of softer and now another attempt by Titleist to copy the DUO ball. Titleist has again put a ball out that is in the upper ranks in price thinking they will buy it just because of the name…. Titleist over priced and under delivered on most of their goods. They are like the car companies of the mid seventy era.

    • Brian

      Sep 22, 2017 at 7:43 pm

      Golf is a game of ‘status’ and the boys with the newest toys play together. You will never find a foursome of buddies with one playing 5 y.o. clubs. If you wanna play, you gotta pay.

  19. Acew7iron

    Sep 21, 2017 at 8:44 am

    Their answer to the Kirkland ball?

    • Brian

      Sep 21, 2017 at 4:28 pm

      Except it’s still over 3x the price of a Kirkland…

      • Bert

        Oct 4, 2017 at 5:30 pm

        Whatever happened to the Kirkland ball? Is it finally on the shelves again; and if yes, is it really the same specifications as the one that stirred everyone up?

  20. Tanner

    Sep 21, 2017 at 7:47 am

    Perhaps their answer for calls for a yellow pro v ?

    • carl spackler

      Sep 21, 2017 at 8:25 am

      but, but they said they couldn’t make a ball with a urethane cover yellow due to the nature of urethane

  21. stevemac

    Sep 20, 2017 at 10:09 pm

    Yeah we do play golf in Texas year round!!!!!!!! Sure hope I am going to get my test balls here. How do you leave out Texas?

  22. Rich Douglas

    Sep 20, 2017 at 9:32 pm

    Too little information. Are these some cool, new breakthrough? Or are they just re-packaged Titleist Velocity balls? Something in between? Something else?

  23. TigerArmy

    Sep 20, 2017 at 5:16 pm

    Where the hell do these fit in between the ProV1s and the NXTs???
    Looks a lot like the Bridgestone strategy where they try to sell sub par tour balls RX / RXS as premium balls to hackers.

  24. AllanA

    Sep 20, 2017 at 5:01 pm

    AVX … AVX … AVX??? ….. Oh, I get it ….. A (Pro)V(1)X …. LOLOL

  25. Guia

    Sep 20, 2017 at 4:30 pm

    I will give it a try. Personally though, I use any number of brand balls and have seen very little difference.

    • AllanA

      Sep 20, 2017 at 4:58 pm

      Oh, no… there must be a difference… look at all the claims and promises… it must be better because it’s the newest.

    • larrybud

      Sep 21, 2017 at 10:01 am

      There is certainly a difference between urethane and non-urethane balls as far as spin goes, especially on approach shots.

      Distance? Eh, all within your margin of error.

  26. Davey Dave

    Sep 20, 2017 at 4:17 pm

    Looks like a good target for an after-hours water hazard diving expedition. Seriously, I’d like to try them to see if they change my second shot.

  27. golfraven

    Sep 20, 2017 at 4:10 pm

    Looks loke a NXT to me. Same packaging but different name?

  28. Brian

    Sep 20, 2017 at 4:08 pm

    Until their balls are reasonably priced, the only Titleist’s I’ll play are those I find on the course.

  29. Judge Smeills

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:52 pm

    Still waiting for the release of new DT Solo and the Tour Prestige

  30. Irma

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:47 pm

    Titleist, starting to lose their ball market badly to Srixon, Bridgestone, TM, so they decide to copy and say why fight them, join them. Typical of a Korean-owned company looking to cash in, like always, with copies.

    • Thomas A

      Sep 20, 2017 at 4:24 pm

      Fila Korea sold Titleist. They are American, publicly owned now. If you read GolfWRX you’d know this.

      • CCGolfTx

        Sep 20, 2017 at 9:44 pm

        Acushnet owns Titleist but Fila Korea still owns Acushnet and owns the controlling percentage of the company.

      • Irma

        Sep 21, 2017 at 2:16 am

        No, it didn’t. You would know that if you lived in the outside world
        https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acushnet_Company

        • surewin73

          Sep 21, 2017 at 11:00 am

          From your Wikipedia page….

          The Acushnet Company is an American company and a subsidiary of Fila Korea, Ltd. that makes golf equipment and clothing.

          Acushnet is still owned by Fila Korea!

        • ibo

          Sep 22, 2017 at 10:43 am

          Irma it literally says The Acushnet Company is an American company and a subsidiary of Fila Korea, Ltd. that makes golf equipment and clothing. in the first line of the article. LOL

          • Irma

            Sep 23, 2017 at 6:35 pm

            Yeah. I was answering Thomas A’s retort that Fila Korea sold Titleist. It didn’t.
            You would know that if you understood how the reply listings worked here. Duh

  31. Double Mocha Man

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:35 pm

    Did they stop making the “Velocity”… it was their long ball?

  32. Golf64

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:13 pm

    So 4 balls in the same price category?! Only thing I like about this is it comes in yellow. No customer here at ProV1 prices!

  33. Scott

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:12 pm

    Hey why not right? Give it the old Billy Baron!

  34. cgasucks

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:12 pm

    A 3 piece Urethane covered ball at the same price as the Pro V1? There’s no incentive for the golfer to buy the AVX (maybe a dozen or two for curiosity’s sake) long term and might as well buy the tried and true Pro V1 for the same price.

  35. Teaj

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:08 pm

    im confused, someone needs to do a review with these, PROV1 and PROV1X

  36. Golfinnut

    Sep 20, 2017 at 3:08 pm

    with their quarterly golf sales down the toilet … why come out with a premium distance ball priced just like the V1? No one buys the ProV1 for just that reason. It’s just too damn expensive. No wonder it’s only in 3 states.

    • Golfandpuff

      Sep 20, 2017 at 3:59 pm

      Stats? Proof sales are down? Why don’t you get me the mfg cost per ball while you are at it? Thanks!

      • Brian

        Sep 20, 2017 at 4:12 pm

        A simple google search will tell you what is common knowledge on Titleist’s recent sales decline.

        • AllanA

          Sep 20, 2017 at 4:55 pm

          Golf equipment sales to the recreational golf market is down because the average golfer is aging and giving up the game. The demographics backs this up.
          So the golf OEMs are shifting their sales to the upscale market because that’s where the money is. It’s happening to drivers, irons, wedges, balls, everything.
          Most on these forums are not so rich that they don’t have to ask for the price of the equipment; they are mostly gearhead wannabes who fall in love with the newest and fanciest toys.

      • Cdub

        Sep 20, 2017 at 6:51 pm

        They are a public company. Read their last Q earnings release.

  37. AllanA

    Sep 20, 2017 at 2:25 pm

    Titlesist Promises:
    – More distance
    – Softer feeel
    – Enhanced speed
    – Control spin
    – Scoring control
    – Durability
    – More aerodynamic
    – Flight consistency
    – Optic color
    – Fancy dimples
    Premium performance at a premium price on par with ProV1-x.
    Sooo, if you want to be a good golfer you must spend more $$$$ on your equipment, shoes, accessories and clothes too. It only makes sense.

  38. new stuff!!

    Sep 20, 2017 at 2:25 pm

    what I don’t understand is why they don’t make the v1 or v1x in yellow.
    waiting for tp5 to come in yellow as well.
    until then… chrome soft it is

    • AllanA

      Sep 20, 2017 at 5:05 pm

      No ‘yaller’ ball for me…. maybe a pink Volvic…. maybe not …..

Leave a Reply

Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

Published

on

@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

Your Reaction?
  • 19
  • LEGIT3
  • WOW0
  • LOL0
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB0
  • SHANK2

Continue Reading

Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

Published

on

In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

Your Reaction?
  • 12
  • LEGIT0
  • WOW2
  • LOL1
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP1
  • OB1
  • SHANK1

Continue Reading

Equipment

GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

Published

on

It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

Your Reaction?
  • 31
  • LEGIT2
  • WOW0
  • LOL2
  • IDHT0
  • FLOP0
  • OB1
  • SHANK3

Continue Reading

WITB

Facebook

Trending