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Cleveland Gives New TFi 2135 Satin Putters A Face Lift

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Cleveland has launched its new TFi 2135 Satin putters that combine model-specific face milling with its familiar raised sightline to help golfers achieve better speed and alignment.

The original TFi 2135 putters used a raised sightline that was 21.35 millimeters off the ground, which is also the height of the equator of a golf ball. According to Cleveland, the technology helps golfers better align their putters, see their line more easily, and address the ball in the center of the putter more consistently. Here’s a video to explain how it works.

That “2135” technology is back again, but with a whole new look. Compared to the original TFi 2135 putters, the most noticeable difference is a new satin finish that has a greater contrast with the sightline. The milling on the face is where these putters have really changed, however, and why they’re built for better speed control.

MilledFace

As you can see in the image above, the milling lines are condensed near the center of the putter faces and spread out progressively as they move toward the toe and the heel. That’s to help the ball come off a bit faster when it’s struck off-center. Since fewer milling marks will create less friction, the ball will bounce off the face faster where the milling marks are more spread out.

But that’s not all.

Each separate head model — since they have a different moment of inertia (MOI, a measure of forgiveness) and a different center of gravity (CG) — has specially designed face milling. More specifically, the higher MOI models (re: mallets) have a more gradual variation of mill marks, while the lower MOI models (re: blades) have a more rapid variation. For golfers, this simply means more forgiveness on off-center strikes with each of the putters, hopefully leading to better consistency, speed control, and fewer three putts.

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For the familiar soft feel of the TFi 2135 putters, Cleveland uses a TPU (thermoplastic urethane) insert to dampen vibrations at impact. This combines with three-times deeper milling on the face to create a softer feel then the original TFi 2135 putters and previous iterations of Cleveland putters.

Cleveland’s new TFi 2135 putters will be in stores September 15 in six different head models. The mallet and blade putters will sell for $149.99, and the counter-balanced putters (8.0 and Elevado CB) will sell for $179.99. The putters come stock with either a Lamkin TFi 2135 blue grip or a Cleveland Oversized grip. Cleveland Oversized Counterbalanced grips are also available for a $10 upcharge.

Discussion: See what GolfWRX members are saying about the 2135 Satin putters

TFi 2135 Satin 1.0

  • Head Type: Blade
  • Hosel Type: Plumber’s Neck
  • Length: 33, 34 and 35 inches
  • Lie Angle: 70 degrees
  • Loft: 3 degrees
  • Head Weight: 345 grams
  • Grip Weight: 85 grams
  • Dexterity: RH/LH

TFi 2135 Satin 8.0

  • Head Type: CB Blade
  • Hosel Type: Single Bend Heel
  • Length: 35 and 38 inches
  • Lie Angle: 70 degrees
  • Loft: 3 degrees
  • Head Weight: 405 grams
  • Grip Weight: 148 grams
  • Dexterity: RH Only

TFi 2135 Satin Elevado 

  • Head Type: Mallet
  • Hosel Type: Single Bend Heel
  • Length: 33, 34 and 35 inches
  • Lie Angle: 70 degrees
  • Loft: 3 degrees
  • Head Weight: 370 grams
  • Grip Weight: 85 grams
  • Dexterity: RH Only

TFi 2135 Satin Rho

  • Head Type: Mallet
  • Hosel Type: Single Bend Heel
  • Length: 33, 34 and 35 inches
  • Lie Angle: 70 degrees
  • Loft: 3 degrees
  • Head Weight: 370 grams
  • Grip Weight: 85 grams
  • Dexterity: RH Only

TFi 2135 Satin Cero

  • Head Type: Mallet
  • Hosel Type: Single Bend Heel
  • Length: 33, 34 and 35 inches
  • Lie Angle: 70 degrees
  • Loft: 3 degrees
  • Head Weight: 370 grams
  • Grip Weight: 85 grams
  • Dexterity: RH Only

TFi 2135 Satin Elevado CB

  • Head Type: CB Mallet
  • Hosel Type: Single Bend Heel
  • Length: 35 and 38 inches
  • Lie Angle: 70 degrees
  • Loft: 3 degrees
  • Head Weight: 405 grams
  • Grip Weight: 148 grams
  • Dexterity: RH Only

Discussion: See what GolfWRX members are saying about the 2135 Satin putters

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19 Comments

19 Comments

  1. Mat

    Aug 31, 2017 at 6:09 am

    Ping is going to sue over this one…

  2. Chris C.

    Aug 29, 2017 at 5:28 pm

    In a world increasingly populated with $400.00 putters, I think that it is great that this line of putters will be selling for less than half that amount. I look forward to testing the Rho. I only wish that it had come with either a plumbers neck or flow neck. Alas! there are some limitations when one is charging less than half the other guys.

  3. Cleveland

    Aug 29, 2017 at 2:52 am

    BEST PUTTERS EVA.

  4. DB

    Aug 28, 2017 at 3:41 pm

    These are great putters for the money, and these look even better than the original.

    • ooffaa

      Aug 28, 2017 at 5:35 pm

      Oh ya…. “the looks”…. that’s what really matters …. are you a child?

      • DB

        Aug 28, 2017 at 7:42 pm

        You seem like a stable person.

        • GG

          Aug 28, 2017 at 9:10 pm

          And you obviously work for Cleveland. Keep on lying.

          • DB

            Aug 29, 2017 at 12:29 am

            Wrong.

            I’m a guy who rolled one at a GG and liked it. But yes, I’ve noticed that anyone here who likes these putters has been accused of working for Cleveland. That’s nice.

            • alan b

              Aug 30, 2017 at 2:03 am

              Your original comment was about the price and the looks as reasons to buy it. Now you claiming you “rolled one” and you liked it. Sounds like a “doobie” putter… lol

  5. Jiminy

    Aug 28, 2017 at 2:04 pm

    same old, same old stuff… at high prices.

  6. Boss

    Aug 28, 2017 at 11:02 am

    They look sexy

    • ooffaa

      Aug 28, 2017 at 5:36 pm

      you are gender confused

      • Oppai

        Aug 30, 2017 at 1:52 am

        You would know, from experience, of course

        • alan b

          Aug 30, 2017 at 2:04 am

          Anybody who calls golf clubs ‘sexy’ is confused and needs help but not for golf.

  7. birdy

    Aug 28, 2017 at 9:54 am

    Not even close….these putters are far and away the best putters for the money. ignore price and these compete with every high dollar putter. great feel, looks, and performance. now just wish more retail stores carry them.

    • ooffaa

      Aug 28, 2017 at 5:37 pm

      thank you Cleveland Golf

      • tom

        Sep 2, 2017 at 12:16 am

        Ridiculous comments like this are why I rarely come to this site anymore.

        • Realist

          Oct 20, 2017 at 1:04 pm

          Keyboard warriors are destroying the very fibers of this country. Forum quality is diminishing as a result.

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Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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