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TaylorMade makes big claims about new TP5 and TP5x golf balls



It’s not often you hear a company directly address another company by name — after all, they’re competitors — especially when it’s a titan in the industry. But that’s exactly what TaylorMade did at the launch for its new TP5 and TP5x golf balls.

Titleist is the most played golf ball on the professional tour, and the No. 1 ball in golf. That’s no secret, and TaylorMade readily admits it. TaylorMade says, however, that it has been able to create a longer, lower-spinning tour ball than the leader in the industry due to its proprietary designs.

TaylorMade was willing to demonstrate those claims in front of an audience full of media members at its launch event, using former amateur standout and new TaylorMade staffer Jon Rahm. The test pitted Rahm’s current golf ball, the Titleist Pro V1x, against TaylorMade’s TP5x.

At the range at The Club at Ibis in West Palm Beach on Tuesday, Rahm tested both golf balls in windy conditions (blowing slightly into, and left-to-right), hitting off of the wispy Bermuda grass. After hitting 7-irons and 4-irons, Trackman numbers supported TaylorMade’s claims of higher ball speeds, lower spin and more distance — upward of 10 yards gained on multiple shots. In the wind, as you’d expect, a lower-spinning shot is preferable since it’s less affected by the conditions.

“It’s a higher ball flight, and isn’t spinning as much (as the the Pro V1x),” Rahm said of the TP5x golf balls. “It just goes farther.” Bear in mind, Rahm is a young staffer who’s paid by TaylorMade.

TaylorMade also claimed at the launch event that the balls are high-spinning around the green compared to their previous models, the Tour Preferred and Tour Preferred X, in addition to being longer and higher-launching.

“No (tour golf ball) is better than us inside 100 yards,” said Eric Loper, TaylorMade’s director of golf ball R&D.

So, in terms of technology and design, what’s different about these TP5 and TP5x golf balls that’s allowing these big claims?

While the previous line had a Tour Preferred X golf ball that was made with five layers, the new line now expands that 5-layer design into both the TP5 and TP5x golf balls. There’s also a new, larger “Tri-Fast” core, and a “Dual-Spin” cover that creates more spin with wedges, but less spin with lower-lofted clubs.


TaylorMade TP5x and TP5 (right) are both 5-piece golf balls.

According to TaylorMade’s initial tour player testing, the TP5 and TP5x will be higher launching with irons (1-2 degrees), lower spinning (500-1000 rpm with irons, 0-200 rpm with a driver) and longer (+7-10 yards with irons, +2-4 yards with a driver).

The cores of the golf balls are extremely low-compression (TP5x = 25, TP5 = 16), according to TaylorMade, with a stiffer outer core and an even stiffer mantle layer. The three layers combine to restrict spin and improve energy transfer, and less spin directly leads to higher launch, according to the company.


This faster core is coupled with a cover made from two pieces; a cast urethane, 322-dimpled seamless cover and a rigid thermoplastic inner cover. The firmer inner cover is said to force the softer, outer cover into the grooves of the wedges in order to create more friction, and thus more backspin around the greens.

The TP5x (90 compression) is said to launch higher and feel firmer than the softer TP5 golf ball (83 compression), which has a “mid-launch,” according to the company. Both golf balls will sell for $44.99 per dozen and will be in stores March 1, 2017.

Correction: The original article stated that the TP5 and TP5X could provide distance gains of 2-4 yards with irons and 7-10 yards with a driver. The story has been corrected to say that the balls could provide distance gains of 7-10 yards with irons and 2-4 yards with a driver. 

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He played on the Hawaii Pacific University Men's Golf team and earned a Masters degree in Communications. He also played college golf at Rutgers University, where he graduated with a Bachelor of Arts in Journalism.



  1. JonS

    Apr 29, 2017 at 10:58 pm

    Every year golf manufacturers make many claims with their golf balls, and rarely are they fair or head to head comparisons to support said claims. The Taylormade Golf TP5x golf ball is legitimate and produces interesting results. Simply grab a 7 iron and see for yourself. I found the ball went higher and further and was excellent in the wind. It felt slightly firmer than the ProV1x golf ball, but that’s something that can be easily sacrificed for the performance.

  2. Almdudler

    Dec 13, 2016 at 10:49 am

    Who really want to have lower spin with the irons? Professionals usually controls their spin great! And amateurs mostly have trouble holding greens.
    Almost all irons in the GI and SGI market are stronger lofts/high launch with less spin.

    I want my 4-7 iron to one hop and stop.. Not bounce and roll off the green. Why is nobody thinking of this?

    • Prime21

      Dec 18, 2016 at 11:07 am

      That is what you WANT ur 4-7 to do, but they don’t. Amateur players face the same issues with their golf ball as they do with their irons, high launch, high spin. If you bring both issues down equally, a problem is created. Through technology, TM has given the average player the ability to offset these issues with clubs/balls that launch high with less spin. Now the player has the ability to stop a ball on a green with a proper land angle NOT an over abundance of spin. Tour players have always been concerned with launch charateristics, especially in the wind (think Tiger at the 2000 US Open). If one cannot arrive with less effective loft than when they started, their ball is going to balloon, period. Technological advancements mean players will get similar results without having to manipulate their shots (ball back, shaft forward, less loft) guving them the ability to make more of a “stock” swing, instead of a “flighted” one.
      Taylor Made has thought of this, but it’s obvious that YOU haven’t put much effort into YOUR thought process. Before you decide to post again, please make some effort to understand the science behind that which you are attempting to speak intelligently about. Otherwise, we will get another ignorant “hate” post that makes ZERO sense & this site has already reached maximum capacity with these types of posts. I hope your skull and roll iron shots improve for the 2017 season!

      • Ben

        Mar 14, 2017 at 5:42 pm

        You nailed it. While there is a lot of BS marketing, I’m getting pretty tired of the haters. I’ve recently switched to the TP5 bc it feels great off the putter and performed better in the wind. We’re literally splitting hairs, but I hit 5 balls on multiple holes into the wind (Chrome Soft X, Pro V1/1x, TP5/5x) and the TPs consistently performed slightly better. Combine that with not shearing as easily as the Pro Vs and it’s become a no brainer. Now if only the TPs came in Tour Yellow.

  3. Smizzly

    Dec 9, 2016 at 2:31 pm

    “TaylorMade makes big claims”

    Truly shocking.

    Srixon and Bstone make much better balls than Callaway, Tmade and Titleist.

  4. Dave

    Dec 9, 2016 at 7:17 am

    blah blah blah blah

  5. justin

    Dec 8, 2016 at 1:14 pm

    Callaway super soft the ones that look like soccer balls, that’s what I play and I honestly have never hit a better ball

    • Joe Galbreth

      Dec 8, 2016 at 7:54 pm

      Ditto Justin….I really like the TruVis. Callaway is coming out with a newer Chrome Soft next spring. It also will have the TruVis design.

  6. Feel the Bern

    Dec 8, 2016 at 10:24 am

    heard this ball is 10% longer with the putter. Loft down!

  7. Greg

    Dec 8, 2016 at 4:46 am

    Lots of truly great balls out there. If you are looking for a cheaper alternative to ProV1, you should have no trouble doing so.
    I’m just numb to anything Taylormade tells me anymore. From drivers,to irons, to balls, they make some good stuff…I m just staging my own mini protest and just won’t buy any of it.

    • Brad

      Dec 8, 2016 at 2:04 pm

      I am 99% with you Greg. I despise TM for every product…. except their golf balls. I switched 2 years ago to the TPx, and can honestly say there is not a better ball on the market. Period. I would be shocked if you couldn’t notice at least a slight advantage. It’s rare that I find a person as “brand-centric” as myself, so even suggesting this for a TM product is saying something coming from me. Give em a try.

      • Aa

        Dec 8, 2016 at 7:22 pm

        We’re not all idiots like you, Brad, and are just happy, positive, forward-thinking innovative people who love Taylormade, and have done so since the 90s. TM have been miles ahead in tech and everybody else are still laying catch up. Why wouldn’t you play their metals? Because you’re an idiot.

        • Jalan

          Dec 17, 2016 at 4:08 pm

          Your Avatar is appropriate. You certainly act like a little child, as well.

  8. Jeffrey Purtell

    Dec 8, 2016 at 12:57 am

    Let me guess, these balls are more forgiving also.

    • Rj

      Dec 8, 2016 at 2:21 am

      Balls have been forgiving ever since Precept Lady

      • RJ's Man Card

        Dec 8, 2016 at 2:08 pm

        Personally, I wouldn’t know anything about that. We’ll just have to take your word for it, and trust your experience in using Ladies golf balls.

        • bh

          Dec 8, 2016 at 3:57 pm

          The Precept Lady ball was a great ball. The changed the name to Laddie so the cavemen could be ok with playing them.

        • Mort

          Dec 8, 2016 at 10:50 pm

          The Lady is what came before the ProVs, is what ProV was copied from

  9. Wayne J Bosley

    Dec 7, 2016 at 10:46 pm

    Well they had to come up with something different and “special” seeing they are made by Nassau Korea and the Kirkland is so close to the TP models in structure and performance ,,,,,

    • Henry

      Dec 9, 2016 at 8:28 am

      The K-Sig is a 4 piece, these are both 5 piece. Yeah, there are comparable balls out there, but the K-Sig isnt one of them.

      • Smitty

        Dec 12, 2016 at 8:27 am

        The K-Sig ball is made at the same factory as the TP balls. It’s the same ball as the current TP 4-piece ball. TM had to respond by adding another layer and some marketing hype.

  10. James

    Dec 7, 2016 at 9:05 pm

    What happens if you are hitting it with the new M1 or the new Proto irons? TM clubs on TM balls. Please tell me that it’s the greatest combination imaginable.

    Seriously though, I need to know the durability of the cover. I tear the cover with full wedge shots of the previous TP balls. I am really interested in the seamless cover!

  11. TexasSnowman

    Dec 7, 2016 at 4:52 pm

    7-10 yds with the Driver…..Question: At any swing speed, Launch Angle, etc? TM makes a claim without any supporting information as usual. I would pay more than $45 dozen for extra 10 yards with the driver, but given the history of TM (17 yds!, etc) and USGA parameters for golf balls. I am very skeptical of their advertising, even with the staged event with Rahm.

  12. Josh

    Dec 7, 2016 at 3:59 pm

    Sorry TM. Kirkland signatures 2 doz for $30.

  13. John meikle

    Dec 7, 2016 at 2:45 pm

    Those extra 2 yards will make sure I reach the rough and those pesky fairway bunkers…

    • Guia

      Dec 7, 2016 at 6:46 pm

      Why do you think the difference is 2 yards, or were you being funny?

      • Guia

        Dec 7, 2016 at 6:48 pm

        Oh, I re-read, and irons are 2 – 4 yards. Your right that is minimum, but 7 – 10 off of the driver is quite a bit.

        • rymail00

          Dec 7, 2016 at 7:36 pm

          Granted it is a gain, but small with the irons but like you said that’s a lot with the driver.

          What I find shocking if true is that it can knock off 200rpm on irons and 500-1000 rpm with woods. That’s a HUUUGE claim…..and kinda hard to believe. I wonder if those numbers got put in backwards and should be 500-1000 for irons and 200 for woods?

          • Guia

            Dec 7, 2016 at 11:02 pm

            I think that the stats would mean more if they used Iron Byron.

            • Steve S

              Dec 8, 2016 at 2:05 pm

              Exactly! Best ball test ever done was by consumer reports 7 or 8 years ago. Used the Iron B. hitting driver and 8 iron. Measured distance and accuracy. Showed that the expensive balls were good but not worth the money. Their best buy was the Titliest DT Solo, about the cheapest ball in the test.

  14. Jim

    Dec 7, 2016 at 2:28 pm

    ProV’s are the most over rated over priced balls of all time. Forget Trackman. Test honestly yourself. Go to the 150 yd dot, and hit 2 of your proV with whatever you hit 150. Then drop a Bridgestone Rx, B330s, Callaway SR or Chrome and see.

    When I was a kid, you found TopFlites in the woods / fescue….rarley a Titleist, Maxfli or Slazenger Balata. Walk the edges now and ProV’s are everywhere. People that shouldn’t be playing them to begin with get tired of looking on every hole! By the 5th /6th they just drop another.

    not surprised anything performed better, and NO, I’m not a TM guy. I wouldn’t play anything from TM unless the paid
    me beaucoup, then I’m sure they’d find something in the Tour-Only box I’d dig

    • Jonno

      Dec 7, 2016 at 6:24 pm

      this guy gets it, prov1’s are the most over-rated piece of golf equipment ever made. If you really believe that any of the other golf companies couldn’t dissect a prov1 and analyse exactly what makes it the way it is – then you’re just crazy. What the other golf companies are trying to do is get the same marketing and brand loyalty that the prov1 garners – the product has been overtaken by larger budgeted competitors years ago, but they still sell the most! Titleist also pay more golf professionals than any other brand yet only other brands get called out for “he only plays X because he’s paid by X”.
      Titleist and the prov1 should be a business case study in marketing world wide.

    • Rj

      Dec 7, 2016 at 7:13 pm

      Yes. Thank you for letting us know that you’re an idiot

    • Progolfer

      Dec 8, 2016 at 11:58 am

      Ever since Callaway sued Titleist for their ProV1 design infringements, the ball hasn’t been anywhere near as good as it used to be. It’s shorter off the tee with more spin, and spins less around the greens. A lot of people don’t know this, but professionals are allowed to use the original ProV1’s with modern stampings on them– it doesn’t violate the lawsuit. There’s a reason so many pro’s play the “current” ProV1. My recommendation is if you find an older one in good shape, keep it!

      • Brian

        Dec 8, 2016 at 3:30 pm

        Not sure about Callaway, but I know Titleist pays Bridgestone a royalty for ever ProV1 sold due to patent infringements. Would be suprised if they stole tech from Callaway also.

  15. chinchbugs

    Dec 7, 2016 at 1:39 pm

    I can’t wait to get those +2 yards with the irons!

    • Double Mocha Man

      Dec 8, 2016 at 12:10 pm

      … but you need to combine those 2 yards with the new irons that get you 6 extra yards and your new swing that gets you 8 extra yards… and presto chango, you’re 16 yards longer with your 9-iron!

      • chinchbugs

        Dec 8, 2016 at 2:31 pm

        Never thought of it that way…add that to the +17 I’ll be getting with the driver and I am up to +33 yards. That par 4 just went from mid iron in the wedge! Take my money TM!
        (J/K I wouldn’t be so foolish to give TM any of my money)

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”




In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″


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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”



In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters



It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.


I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.




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