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Blurred Lines: Mizuno launches JPX-900 Tour irons

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Mizuno, which has set the golden standard for players irons over the years, is blurring the lines between a blade iron and a forged cavity back with its new JPX-900 Tour irons. The new irons pass the eye-test for a blade, but they’re pumped up with performance features usually reserved for Mizuno’s bulkier JPX irons.

A Mizuno JPX-900 Tour 6 iron at address.

A Mizuno JPX-900 Tour 6 iron at address.

Like Mizuno’s MP iron models, which are designed for the most discerning and skilled golfers, the JPX-900 Tour irons are made from Mizuno’s Grain Flow forged 1025E Mild Carbon Steel to give golfers the familiar soft, solid feel for which Mizuno is known.

“We wanted to make the best Grain Flow Forged iron ever,” says David Llewellyn, Mizuno’s Director of R&D.

What’s different about the JPX-900 Tour irons is the more aggressive styling, which is part form, part function. The addition of Mizuno’s angular “Power Frame” to the cavity increases moment of inertia (MOI), which makes the irons more forgiving. Yet according to Llewellyn, the refined cavity-back irons should be an easy transition for its staff players, Chris Wood and Luke Donald, who currently use the company’s MP-5 blade irons.

JPX900_Tour_CloseUp 1

Mizuno’s MP-64 irons, a forged cavity-back that many in the Mizuno community believe to be the best-feeling Mizuno iron in recent memory, was used as the benchmark for the acoustics of the JPX-900 Tour irons. By using the company’s HIT (Harmonic Impact Technology) system, which measures and quantifies sound frequencies, Mizuno was able to mimic the acoustics of the MP-64 irons while improving on their construction.

Specs

MizunoJPX900Tourironspecs

In terms of looks, the JPX-900 Tour irons are smaller than the MP-25 irons released in 2015, with a lower toe height and a “more modern design” than the MP-25 irons, Llewellyn says. Another note of distinction: the soles of the JPX-900 Tour irons which are thinnest ever used on a JPX model, and feature the same sole geometries Mizuno has been giving its MP irons for several generations. This design will create more versatility than ever from a JPX offering, something better players will surely appreciate.

JPX900_Tour_3Clubs+Shafts

The stock shaft for the JPX-900 Tour irons is True Temper’s Dynamic Gold AMT, which uses an ascending weight design to improve performance of each iron. In the X100 flex, for example, the 3-iron shaft weighs roughly 115 grams, while the pitching wedge shafts weighs about 130 grams. The lighter long-iron shafts help golfers hit higher-flying long-iron shots, making it easier to hit and hold greens, while the heavier short iron shafts provide added stability for greater precision.

JPX900_Tour+GolfPride

Mizuno’s JPX-900 Tour irons, available Sept. 16, will sell for $1,199.99 in either steel or graphite. There is no upcharge for custom shafts or grips.

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He played on the Hawaii Pacific University Men's Golf team and earned a Masters degree in Communications. He also played college golf at Rutgers University, where he graduated with a Bachelor of Arts in Journalism.

49 Comments

49 Comments

  1. Ufourix

    Aug 22, 2016 at 7:34 am

    Will they be offered in Left Handed??

  2. TWShoot67

    Aug 16, 2016 at 3:52 pm

    I use to play Mizuno blades for the longest time 14’s, 29’s and even the 33’s. Didn’t like the 32’s, but these look like they might be that perfect go between blade and cb. If they feel like my old time dizzy blades with a little extra punch Mizuno may have me back. But for now I’m sticking with my King Cobra pro mb/cb’s. Definitely can’t wait to demo. Love the minimal offset, one thing I din’t like about the 29’s in the scoring clubs was the huge amount of offset thus the Tiger combo of 29’s in long irons and 14’s in scoring clubs.

  3. tonks

    Aug 15, 2016 at 7:26 am

    I am using Mizuno TP9s with DG S400 shafts for the last four years (designed in 1986). I bought them from someone who had only used them four times from new (they were still in the original Mizuno box!). I find them well balanced and accurate and they look fantastic. The loft of the 7 iron is 37 degrees. Does anyone have any thoughts as to how they compare with MPs and JPXs should I want to change to a modern club?

  4. Tim

    Aug 12, 2016 at 7:50 pm

    Does anyone else see the Ping s55 when you look at these irons? The toe portion of the cavity is identical as well as the general shape of the cavity. Overall design goal is exactly what the s55 achieved: smaller, players cavity back iron. Good news for all the fans of Ping’s S line who have being asking Ping to forge their clubs.

    • KK

      Aug 13, 2016 at 9:47 pm

      Just the high toe weighting. Everything else is very different, including the unseen tech.

    • Double Mocha Man

      Mar 17, 2017 at 11:04 am

      Does anyone else see the Titleist AP1 and AP2 irons when they look at the back of these clubs?

  5. Dane

    Aug 12, 2016 at 3:56 pm

    To bad Mizuno doesn’t offer the Dynamic Gold Tour Issue shafts in custom. That’s my favorite iron shaft. These irons would be awesome paired with those shafts. Most of the club manufacturers carry that shaft but for some reason Mizuno does not.

    • L

      Aug 12, 2016 at 4:30 pm

      Not this again.
      There is no need for those shafts. Mizuno can build their clubs to precise spec with the standard ones. No need to spend the extra money for labels

      • Dane

        Aug 14, 2016 at 1:51 am

        It’s not just labels. The Tour Issue model has a tighter tolerance and are more consistent compared to the standard shafts. I can feel the difference between the two and others can agree with me. It’s the #1 shaft model on Tour. Titleist, TaylorMade, Callaway and Ping offer that shaft but not Mizuno. That’s unfortunate in my honest opinion.

        Also, Go to TrueTemper.com where they have a video explaining the differences between the two shafts. Your not paying more for a label, your paying more for a better, tighter tolerance and more consistent shaft.

        • Jim

          Aug 14, 2016 at 11:39 pm

          ….and everyone on tour was ALSO SST Pured….every shaft can be found to have a most stable plane to install in the head for optimum feel & performance.

          while it’s been illegal to manufacture a shaft specifically with a ‘spine’ to be inserted in a specific orientation, It’s not illegal to ‘find’ it in a shaft and reinstall it so it lies on a better axis…

          I’m diggin KBS now after being an original Brunswick Rifle defector from DG X100’s

        • Christopher

          Aug 15, 2016 at 11:05 am

          From what I remember originally they’re the same shaft, just cherry-picked. There wouldn’t be any difference in feel or performance between two shafts weighted the same, with the same playing characteristics. The only difference would be the label and the upcharge.

          An expert clubmaker could cherry pick the same exact Dynamic Gold shafts off the rack and there would be no difference, apart from the price. You’re only paying more for True Temper to sort the shafts correctly, which is arguably something they should do in the first place.

        • Scooter McGavin

          Aug 15, 2016 at 4:52 pm

          No, you can’t feel the difference.

          • Eric

            Aug 16, 2016 at 8:55 pm

            Some players won’t feel the difference between the standard shafts versus Tour Issue shafts but good players will. Plus the Tour Issue shafts look better with the Tour Issue shaft band.

            • Christopher

              Aug 17, 2016 at 4:10 pm

              They’re the same shaft, so they’re imagining a difference. The only difference is that each shaft will match your other shafts in your irons to a tighter margin, but you could cherry pick the standard Dynamic Gold shafts to achieve the same result. Imagine if you bought new pool balls for your 9-ball table, one or two balls are slightly heavier or lighter than the others, that would be your Dynamic Gold set, and the Tour Issue’s would all be same weight. They’re the same balls, they just have tighter quality control with the Tour Issues.

  6. MP-4

    Aug 12, 2016 at 1:17 pm

    “…should be an easy transition for its staff players.” Highly doubt LD would move from the MP-5 to a JPX iron. Going to be awhile before anything surpasses the MP-5. Looking forward to the JPX 900 driver though, which I think is the most interesting club of the new JPX line.

  7. bogeypro

    Aug 12, 2016 at 9:34 am

    What is your beef with Mizuno? Did they touch you inappropriately or something? They make great equipment. Don’t get mad at them if you can’t play it…

    • smizzletroll

      Aug 12, 2016 at 11:58 am

      no, they didn’t touch him, thats his beef. professional troll of golf message boards, ridiculously sad…

  8. KK

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:51 pm

    Beautiful but these don’t look very forgiving– basically an MB. Tour is a good name.

  9. Dat

    Aug 11, 2016 at 8:53 pm

    I think they look very different for Mizuno in a good way. Really looks like the engineers spent their time on this one. A true leap in the generation of their products. I don’t care what they call them as long as they perform.

  10. Double Mocha Man

    Aug 11, 2016 at 6:54 pm

    They look like a streamlined version of the Titleist AP-2 irons.

  11. Tom Duckworth

    Aug 11, 2016 at 5:11 pm

    I have never owned a set of Mizuno irons but have always wanted to . Just never got around to it. I have some Wilson FG Tour V2s with some Nippon shafts that I just can’t kick out of the bag. These look really nice I never liked the looks of the 800 series and didn’t think the MPs were right for me. The MP-64s are beautiful and I was thinking about getting a used set for fun and to try them out. Maybe I’ll have to look into these. This is the first series of JPX irons that look good to me funny I always thought MPs were some of the best looking irons out there and JPX the worst . Hope to see some reviews soon. Maybe Mizuno will want some WRX testers.

  12. Brian

    Aug 11, 2016 at 4:10 pm

    You should stick with your Callaways and their 29 degree 7 iron.

  13. Jay

    Aug 11, 2016 at 2:57 pm

    While the “no upcharge” is nice, if you prefer a more stock shaft – DG S300 – kind of have to feel you are getting hosed.

    • DJ

      Aug 11, 2016 at 5:24 pm

      Why would anyone take a chevy when the caddilac is the same price? They are not targeting the cheap end with these irons.

    • Jim

      Aug 14, 2016 at 11:30 pm

      Actually, it was a huge, smart move from Callaway…First year of Apex irons, they knew they were so good – and 1099 – $100 more than other big OEM’s ‘BEST’ they offered whichever shaft you needed for no upcharge. That helped make them a huge successs.
      When Rocketblades died a painful death after only 8 months and Speedblades (the next ‘greatest iron ever made’) came out with the same POS $9.00 shaft as Rocketblades for $899, getting into Apex (a FAR better head) w/KBS C-Tapers or Project X’s for 200 more wasn’t that big a stretch for shoppers.

      it’s a smart move for every OEM. Cripes – even Adams put CTapers in that funky black head a couple years ago, and they came to market for 699. It destroyed that dog Speedblade head…

      DG’s are reliable shafts – the standard we judge from – kinda like an IBM Mainframe – but if for no extra charge, you can
      definitely get a better feeling better performing stick.

      it always goes back to getting fit by an expert – with outdoor ball flight & proper launch monitor… Steel shaft tech has been blowin’ up big time in last 5 years. Take advantage of it!

  14. Bl

    Aug 11, 2016 at 12:51 pm

    Looks cool. Smaller than the MP-25? Even better.

  15. Chuck

    Aug 11, 2016 at 12:10 pm

    1. So no tungsten in the soles or the toes? Do they accomplish most of what is going on with the tungsten inserts in other brands, with just the shape of the perimeter weighting? I’d be fine with that. My gripe with the tungsten-weighted Titleists was that the head was just a shade too compact for my own tastes.

    2. Are these the strongest lofts that Mizuno has ever offered?

    3. I would want a lot more information on the sole grinds. Does Mizuno offer anything custom in that regard? Can you order a blunted leading edge?

    4. So is this the prelude to a new MP model?

    • Brian

      Aug 11, 2016 at 12:55 pm

      1. Mizuno has never used tungsten inserts in their irons and these do not depart from that standard.
      2. These have the same loft specs as the MP-25, MP-15, and MP-5; so no, these aren’t lofted strong.
      3. You would likely have to order custom sole grinds from Mizuno’s Yoro arm and should expect to pay a premium to do so.
      4. No idea

      • tl

        Aug 11, 2016 at 4:30 pm

        And, they are also still 1/4″ shorter than Titleist

        • kloyd0306

          Aug 12, 2016 at 8:57 pm

          Don’t you mean that Titleist are 1/4 inch longer than Mizuno?

          There is no industry standard for length. Who is to say that Titleist’s lengths are the correct length? Besides, stock lengths are only for stock clubs and if you are buying stock clubs from anyone, you may as well drive a car that does not have an adjustable seat, an adjustable steering wheel or adjustable mirrors.

          Mizuno measures length WITHOUT the grip. Titleist measures length WITH the grip. There is still a small difference but not a 1/4 inch when both are finished.

  16. Justin

    Aug 11, 2016 at 11:34 am

    If they are in fact smaller than the MP25s then I’ll be salivating over these. May have to work up a combo set with MP25 4 and 5 irons

  17. Dj

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:59 am

    Look like 716 ap2

    • Scooter McGavin

      Aug 11, 2016 at 1:38 pm

      Yeah, except that they don’t.

    • Brian

      Aug 11, 2016 at 4:08 pm

      They look like the club that the Ap2 aspires to be.

      • Dj

        Aug 11, 2016 at 5:50 pm

        Except ap2 will outsell by 20 times

        • Brian

          Aug 12, 2016 at 8:39 am

          I’m not a Mizuno shareholder, so their sales aren’t a concern of mine.

  18. rpm300

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:52 am

    They look nice, but as usual for Mizuno, they have way too muck offset in the short irons.

  19. Alex

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:23 am

    My gosh, those look incredible. However, am I the only person who thinks those grooves seem like they’re extending too far on the toe?

  20. sumsum

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:21 am

    I hear they will be offering Recoil now with no upcharge, might make this a mean set!

  21. Marty Moose

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:06 am

    Mizuno makes very nice clubs. If I were one of the current Nike staffers, I’d be talking to Mizuno. Even if that means a pay cut. Prob turn out to to be the same $ if they continue to wear Nike clothing.

  22. Nolanski

    Aug 11, 2016 at 10:01 am

    Pretty

  23. LabraeGolfer

    Aug 11, 2016 at 9:56 am

    Best selling irons of 2016-2017…. Well should be anyway at least for better players. They look fantastic and they are Mizuno’s so I know they will perform.

    • Mikec

      Aug 12, 2016 at 9:12 am

      So you are making a predication that these will lead iron sales??

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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