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PING Anser Driver, Fairway Wood and Hybrid: Story, Videos, and Pictures



For the complete write up on GolfWRX’s trip to PING HQ, click here.

…As we entered the conference room, in front of us was an array of clubs. With a full set leaning against the wall and examples cut in half (showing the inner workings) on the table.  I immediately went for the driver, the Anser. All I could think of was PING, the foremost OEM yet to offer an adjustable driver, has now gone adjustable.

Of course a popular question is why has PING taken so long to bring an adjustable head to market. The answer is simple – John Solheim, PING’s Chairman and CEO – wasn’t ready to do so until the engineers could get to a point where there was no performance loss. You see, when you modify the head to allow for interchangeable shafts and tweaking of loft, lie, and face angle, there is additional weight allocated to the heel/hosel area that is no longer available for use in the rest of the head. PING is now at a point where that is not an issue.

The Anser driver, which performs tremendously well, is a real looker. The Anser fills a void between the popular G20 and i20, giving the best of both worlds. It has been optimized to give the best of all types of performance – forgiveness, distance, workability – in a manner that trumps anything out there. While the words cannon, beast, rocket launcher, etc. often get thrown around whenever a new driver comes to market, the Anser is truly deserving of these titles. The Anser will be available in 8.5, 9.5, 10.5, and 12 degrees of loft. There are four standard shaft options, PING’s TFC proprietary, Aldila RIP Phenom, Fujikura Blur, and Mitsubishi Rayon ‘ahina – all shafts are the real deal, with none of the ‘Made For’ nonsense that ruffles many feathers here. No upcharge either! The adjustability gives players the ability to change loft (which is main point of the adjustability) +/- .5 degrees of loft. This allows launch conditions to be optimized for wet or firm conditions when a player may want to carry the ball a little farther or have the ability for the ball to run a little more once on the ground. With these stock options, every level of player can find something that fits their swing. To top it off, PING has introduced a 360º round grip, their first non-ribbed grip in forever, for a consistent set up no matter how the club is tweaked. Clean headcover too!

After going through the fitting process, I got put into an 8.5º head with an ‘ahina 70x shaft (very similar to my current setup, just bumping up from 60x to 70x). Keep posted to this thread to see how it’s treating me. Now I’m not quite ‘Bubba Long’, but I get it out there a good ways (not everyone on the internet lies). This driver is the real deal. I know my game quite well and am pretty analytical when it comes to launch monitor numbers, and these are the best launch conditions I’ve ever had. See below for a picture of my launch monitor numbers (click the picture as the numbers are larger when the photo is expanded).

In the fairway wood, PING uses the same adjustability as in the driver. Again this new Anser fairway bridges the gap between G20 and i20, giving a launch and trajectory many players will enjoy. Great club that I thoroughly enjoyed hitting as it reminds me of my i20 3 wood that I like a lot. It has slightly less forgiveness than G20 but retains the penetrating trajectory of i20

In the hybrid, it acts as it should, a hybrid between fairway wood and iron – that said, it is not adjustable. It’s a great club that, again, reminds me of my i20. Solid, solid, solid.

I only had limited range time and did not have any other drivers, fairways, or hybrids to compare. With numbers like I was getting, everyone who has given thought to this club really, really needs to give it a whirl! I hope you enjoyed my write up and please fire away any comments or questions you may have.

I hope that was enough text for y’all. That said, I will let the videos and pictures do the rest of the talking!


[youtube id=”28xecGji2pQ” width=”600″ height=”350″]

[youtube id=”F9kEEABhosI” width=”600″ height=”350″]

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Ben is the Sales and Marketing Manager for GolfWRX and is based out of Silicon Valley, California. Outside of golf his hobbies include cars, technology, and music.



  1. sam

    Oct 6, 2012 at 3:14 am

    i might be buying the ping hybrid and i have the burner superfast 2.0 so the new ones and i am carrying the superfast hybrids now 140 and the ping answer average carry was 148 and im only thirteen and hoping it will help with my golf

  2. Chris

    Sep 25, 2012 at 10:15 pm

    I tried the new Ping Anser driver at golf galaxy the 10.5 degree with three of the new shafts all being stiff which I used. I then tried my Ping G20 10.5 and found that I could hit the G20 a little further than the new Ping Anser. You want me to spend $400 for what? I don’t get anymore yardage actually less. One sell they didn’t make and I was very excited about getting the newest Ping Club. Buyer beware and compare with your current club. Unless there is a difference why buy it.

  3. adam

    Aug 27, 2012 at 11:34 pm

    I am testing out hybrids, with all the talk about the adams xtd I thought that would be the best bet. I was wrong, i get exactly the same numbers with this hybrid, and it looks better and feels better! Awesome hybrid, SOLD

  4. Adam

    Aug 19, 2012 at 12:49 am

    .5* of adjustability is not even worth looking at. Call me when it’s 2*.

    • JEFF

      Feb 8, 2013 at 12:38 am


  5. Dave

    Aug 18, 2012 at 12:05 pm

    They’re in stores, Bought mine yesterday.

  6. Me2

    Jul 31, 2012 at 11:38 pm

    Awesome numbers dude!

  7. Timfrk

    Jul 26, 2012 at 9:37 am

    as Francis answered I am stunned that a mom can profit $8197 in one month on the computer. did you look at this web site (Click on menu Home more information)

  8. kevin

    Jul 25, 2012 at 7:16 pm

    When do they go on sale? Is there a new ping Anser Bag as well?

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What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”




In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″


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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”



In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters



It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.


I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.




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