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Analyzing golfers’ “favorite” shots on Trackman

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In a previous article, I showed you how the face and path interact in order to produce curvature on a golf ball. In this article we will examine the numerical data from the Trackman while I hit a few of our “favorite” shots!

The only thing I want you to focus on here is the relationship between the face and the path. When the face and the path diverge, curvature is created. The new rules of ball flight tell us that the ball starts in the direction of the face and curves away from the path. You will see these factors demonstrated below.

In the shot diagrams below: the blue line represents the path, the red arrow represents the face angle at impact, the purple line is the curvature of the golf ball, and the straight right line is your target line.

One note: Please assume that I have hit the ball in the center of the blade on each shot; thus there is no vertical or horizontal gear effect acting upon the ball the might skew the spin axis number a touch.

The Push Draw

ThePushDraw

  • The path is 4.9 degrees from the inside
  • The face is 2.1 degrees to the right of the target
  • When the face is left of the path (-5.6 degrees) but right of the target (2.1 degrees) the ball will begin the right of the target and curve back towards the target
  • Draws are hit with an OPEN face so the ball begins to the right

The Pull Fade

ThePullFade

  • The path is -3.5 degrees from out to in
  • The face is -2.2 degrees left of the target
  • Whenever the face is right (1.2 degrees) of the path (-3.5 degrees) with the face being left of the target (-2.2 degrees) the ball will begin left of the target and curve back to the right
  • Fades are hit with a CLOSED face so the ball begins to the left of the target

The Push

ThePush

  • Sometimes when hitting a fade people will “hold on” to the face too much through impact and this causes the ball to begin too far right of the target and curve further away from it
  • To numerically see this, you can see that the face is 11.8 degrees to the right of the target which is 13 degrees right of the path…the bigger the face to path relationship the bigger the curve in a perfect world
  • When the face is right of the target the ball will begin too far to the right…to begin the ball left of the target you would need a face that is left of the target but right of the path

The Pull

ThePull

  • As we all know, committing to hitting a draw is tough under pressure thus allowing the club to naturally release left of the path can be an issue
  • It is impossible to time the “release” of the club in the 1/10,000 of a second during impact; however, the over-emphasis of releasing the club can move the face too far left of the target and path
  • The path is from the inside at 4.5 degrees while the face is -8.5 degrees left of the target which is -13.0 degrees left of the path…thus the ball starts way left and hooks even further left
  • The key to learn here is that the face “releases” left of the path but NOT left of the target

The Double Cross Left

TheDoubleCrossLeft

  • Sometimes when hitting a fade you can get a touch handsy and pull the ball, “double-crossing” as it’s called.  When this happens the ball begins left of your target and never moves back to the right
  • As you can see the path is -9.8 degrees from out to in but instead of the face angle being RIGHT of the path, it is currently -3.6 degrees left of the path creating a pull hook
  • As stated the ball begins in the direction of the face and curves away from the path and if you turn the face left of the path then the ball will never come back

The Over the Top Slice

OverTheTopSlice

  • I’ve saved the best and most common of our favorite shots for last…the over the top slice!!!!
  • Here you can see that the path is -9.4 degrees from out to in yet the face is 1.3 degrees right of the target which gives us a 10.8 degree difference between the face and the path
  • Whenever the face is right of the path with a centered hit the ball will fall to from left to right
  • Anytime you swing left your mind knows that the target is right of your path thus you will tend to “hold on” to the blade in efforts to move the ball back towards the target…this puts the face right of the target and well right of the path and this will cause the big slice we all hate

Hopefully with these few sample shots you now understand now HOW these shots are created with centered impacts. As always, when we add in gear effect from toe and heel hits it can render the face to path numbers irrelevant as they can actually counteract one another. This is the reason why using face spray to audit your impact location can help you better chart your impact point, face, path, and spin axis number in the end.

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Tom F. Stickney II, is a specialist in Biomechanics for Golf, Physiology, and 3d Motion Analysis. He has a degree in Exercise and Fitness and has been a Director of Instruction for almost 30 years at resorts and clubs such as- The Four Seasons Punta Mita, BIGHORN Golf Club, The Club at Cordillera, The Promontory Club, and the Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort. His past and present instructional awards include the following: Golf Magazine Top 100 Teacher, Golf Digest Top 50 International Instructor, Golf Tips Top 25 Instructor, Best in State (Florida, Colorado, and California,) Top 20 Teachers Under 40, Best Young Teachers and many more. Tom is a Trackman University Master/Partner, a distinction held by less than 25 people in the world. Tom is TPI Certified- Level 1, Golf Level 2, Level 2- Power, and Level 2- Fitness and believes that you cannot reach your maximum potential as a player with out some focus on your physiology. You can reach him at [email protected] and he welcomes any questions you may have.

19 Comments

19 Comments

  1. Rich

    Aug 27, 2014 at 12:27 am

    I don’t understand what you mean by a draw is hit with an open face. As to my knowledge the way to hit a push draw is to have the face between the original target and path. But the more the path is right the more closed the face is? Just curious as to what you mean by an open face.

    • chase

      Aug 28, 2014 at 9:48 am

      its open to the target line yet closed to the club path if that helps

  2. Brian

    Aug 22, 2014 at 12:37 am

    Would love to see the numbers for the “snap hook” and “pull hook”

    • tom stickney

      Aug 22, 2014 at 10:28 am

      Snaphook would be path way left of target…face further left of path. The pull hook is shown above under the term “pull.”

  3. Pingback: Analyzing golfers’ “favorite” shots on Trackman | Spacetimeandi.com

  4. Jeff

    Aug 18, 2014 at 8:09 pm

    I was wonder if you were working on shots for a tournament what would you do in your practice to make them predictable and reliable. Would you hit a push draw and then a pull fade changing the path more than the club face for curvature of the ball or would you hit a push fade and draw so that both club paths were more similar and it was the club face angle that is changing more? I need to get tournament ready in two months for the next season in Palm Springs and I get different answers depending on which local pro I talk to.

    • Tom Stickney

      Aug 18, 2014 at 8:40 pm

      I’d practice my stock shot until it moved too much the hit the opposite one for a bit. Come see me in pd this winter. I’m at bighorn. Back in late October

  5. hidraw

    Aug 18, 2014 at 8:06 pm

    The push draw is my go to….and pretty much my only. Hard part about this is it creates a fairly shallow angle of attack and my miss is normally thin….good news is that thin is straight and helps keep my scores in line with a lower handicap golfer. However, there is nothing better than a solid strike with a nice divot in front of the ball. Any advice to address? Thanks!

  6. ILMHoosier

    Aug 18, 2014 at 3:15 pm

    Very nice article Tom. Just out of curiosity what club were you hitting?

    • Tom Stickney

      Aug 18, 2014 at 3:58 pm

      6 iron I believe. Early am, swinging easy

  7. Dakota

    Aug 18, 2014 at 12:37 pm

    I have worked at Dick’s for around the last year seeing the numbers on the launch monitor has really helped to understand a lot about the golf swing.

    • Tom Stickney

      Aug 18, 2014 at 3:59 pm

      Numbers help as long as you focus on the feeling you have to achieve them.

  8. Philip

    Aug 18, 2014 at 12:17 pm

    I like the descriptions with the numbers. This seems to be something I can wrap my head around. Until now I kinda knew what I was trying to do, but not with the confidence to pull it off.

    Much appreciated.

    • Tom Stickney

      Aug 18, 2014 at 2:19 pm

      Thx. I thought it would be cool to show both as well.

  9. NaborsX

    Aug 18, 2014 at 12:00 pm

    Great info. Nice to see the swing feel in actual numbers. It’s always hard to get someone to understand the whole “swing right to go left” mentality.

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Instruction

Clement: Laid-off or perfect fade? Across-the-line or perfect draw?

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Some call the image on the left laid off, but if you are hitting a fade, this could be a perfect backswing for it! Same for across the line for a draw! Stop racking your brain with perceived mistakes and simply match backswing to shot shape!

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The Wedge Guy: The easiest-to-learn golf basic

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My golf learning began with this simple fact – if you don’t have a fundamentally sound hold on the golf club, it is practically impossible for your body to execute a fundamentally sound golf swing. I’m still a big believer that the golf swing is much easier to execute if you begin with the proper hold on the club.

As you might imagine, I come into contact with hundreds of golfers of all skill levels. And it is very rare to see a good player with a bad hold on the golf club. There are some exceptions, for sure, but they are very few and very far between, and they typically have beat so many balls with their poor grip that they’ve found a way to work around it.

The reality of biophysics is that the body moves only in certain ways – and the particulars of the way you hold the golf club can totally prevent a sound swing motion that allows the club to release properly through the impact zone. The wonderful thing is that anyone can learn how to put a fundamentally sound hold on the golf club, and you can practice it anywhere your hands are not otherwise engaged, like watching TV or just sitting and relaxing.

Whether you prefer an overlap, interlock or full-finger (not baseball!) grip on the club, the same fundamentals apply.  Here are the major grip faults I see most often, in the order of the frequency:

Mis-aligned hands

By this I mean that the palms of the two hands are not parallel to each other. Too many golfers have a weak left hand and strong right, or vice versa. The easiest way to learn how to hold the club with your palms aligned properly is to grip a plain wooden ruler or yardstick. It forces the hands to align properly and shows you how that feels. If you grip and re-grip a yardstick several times, then grip a club, you’ll see that the learning curve is almost immediate.

The position of the grip in the upper/left hand

I also observe many golfers who have the butt of the grip too far into the heel pad of the upper hand (the left hand for right-handed players). It’s amazing how much easier it is to release the club through the ball if even 1/4-1/2″ of the butt is beyond the left heel pad. Try this yourself to see what I mean.  Swing the club freely with just your left hand and notice the difference in its release from when you hold it at the end of the grip, versus gripping down even a half inch.

To help you really understand how this works, go to the range and hit shots with your five-iron gripped down a full inch to make the club the same length as your seven-iron. You will probably see an amazing shot shape difference, and likely not see as much distance loss as you would expect.

Too much lower (right) hand on the club

It seems like almost all golfers of 8-10 handicap or higher have the club too far into the palm of the lower hand, because that feels “good” if you are trying to control the path of the clubhead to the ball. But the golf swing is not an effort to hit at the ball – it is a swing of the club. The proper hold on the club has the grip underneath the pad at the base of the fingers. This will likely feel “weak” to you — like you cannot control the club like that. EXACTLY. You should not be trying to control the club with your lower/master hand.

Gripping too tightly

Nearly all golfers hold the club too tightly, which tenses up the forearms and prevents a proper release of the club through impact. In order for the club to move back and through properly, you must feel that the club is controlled by the last three fingers of the upper hand, and the middle two fingers of the lower hand. If you engage your thumbs and forefingers in “holding” the club, the result will almost always be a grip that is too tight. Try this for yourself. Hold the club in your upper hand only, and squeeze firmly with just the last three fingers, with the forefinger and thumb off the club entirely. You have good control, but your forearms are not tense. Then begin to squeeze down with your thumb and forefinger and observe the tensing of the entire forearm. This is the way we are made, so the key to preventing tenseness in the arms is to hold the club very lightly with the “pinchers” — the thumbs and forefingers.

So, those are what I believe are the four fundamentals of a good grip. Anyone can learn them in their home or office very quickly. There is no easier way to improve your ball striking consistency and add distance than giving more attention to the way you hold the golf club.

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Instruction

Clement: Stop ripping off your swing with this drill!

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Not the dreaded headcover under the armpit drill! As if your body is defective and can’t function by itself! Have you seen how incredible the human machine is with all the incredible feats of agility all kinds of athletes are accomplishing? You think your body is so defective (the good Lord is laughing his head off at you) that it needs a headcover tucked under the armpit so you can swing like T-Rex?

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