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WRX Custom Putter Showcase: Pick the Winner!

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You have just stumbled into putter heaven, a land where no one cares about making putts. There’s only one thing that truly matters here: how awesome looking is the club?

We sent out a challenge to some of the industry’s top boutique putter makers and told them to dream big. No rules, just design the coolest custom putter anyone has ever seen before. Easy enough, right?

The Participants

So we’re putting the vote to you, the reader, to decide which company churned out the best design. To help you out, we’ll provide the project name, the designer, the technology and what went into designing each putter. Of course, there are also a ton of of photos.

Make sure to vote — the poll is at the bottom of this page — and leave your thoughts about each putter in the comment section at the end of this story. Enjoy your experience in a land where three-putts don’t matter and looking good reigns supreme.

Machine Golf

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Project Name: Delta Proto-1
Custom Designer: David Billings

“You can change the toe hang by up to 15 degrees,” Billings said. “That’s the first time that’s been offered on a putter.”

Tech Info: This putter remains true to its name; it’s a MACHINE. It has all the bells, whistles and gadgets you’d expect from something with such a name. The Delta Proto-1 offers three interchangeable grips (two leather, one aluminum), six weights and two back flanges, which like the head and neck are made from flame-torched Stainless Steel Damascus with a Damascus Titanium logo medallion and has Delta Mod Adjusters that can be stacked to adjust the balance/toe hang.

Wait, did I just say that one of the grips was made from aluminum? Yes, one of the grips, called a Hog, is made from 6061 Aerospace Aluminum Alloy that offers a unique, round grip feel and helps with counterbalancing.

The putter also has a “skeletonized” neck and hosel, which come in the form of spine-like cut outs, and one of the back flanges has “bongo” cuts that look like bongo (or zebra) stripes. The finish on the putter was also produced with a torching process that makes this prototype feel right at home in the jungle.

Do golf courses actually allow this putter near their premises? Just add a “dab of epoxy” and this baby is USGA conforming, Billings says.

Kingston Putters

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Project Name: The Chive
Custom Designer: Kyle Sears

“We wanted to showcase that we can do anything to a putter,” Sears said. “Any random logo or saying, we can do.”

Tech Info: The Chive and WRX unite at last. “Keep Calm and Chive On” is The Chive’s calling card, and you’ve undoubtedly seen someone on the street or in a bar with a Chive T-shirt or sweatshirt. Surely there’s some GolfWRXers who are also part of Chive Nation?

And it’s for charity. A certain percentage of profits from each “Keep Calm and Chive On” putter will go to ChiveCharities.

The putter was milled from a solid block of soft carbon steel, but this is different from Kingston’s other designs in that there’s no nickel or satin finish. Sears, the custom designer from Kingston, decided to leave the putter with a raw look, which will produce a nostalgic, patina rust over time. Since it’s raw with no finish, remnants from the milling process are left all over the club head: a crude but flattering look.

This a one-off, but knowing Chive Nation and GolfWRX, the demand will be high.

Byron Golf Design

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Project Name: Roll Abides
Custom Designer: Byron Morgan

“I’ve never seen anything that looks like this putter in my life,” Morgan said.

Tech Info: We haven’t either. The Roll Abides was handmade by Byron Morgan himself. For this custom design, he used carbon steel in the back and aluminum in the front to make the back part of the putter two-third’s heavier than the front.

The cut out behind the putters’ face allowed Morgan to eliminate weight near the face, without a see-through cut seen from other putters on the market. He described the club head’s profile as more conventional looking than other oversized mallet putters, with more technology to produce a higher MOI. The weight proportions give the putter maximum forgiveness.

With a “Tight Tuna Mill” on the face, the face-milling has high points that grab the golf ball, which gets the ball rolling quicker on the ground.

Surfing was a large part of Morgan’s childhood, which inspired the look of the custom headcover design. The woman’s silhouette is called, “Sally the Surfer,” who was named after his wife, Sally.

SeeMore Putter Company

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Project Name: Tour Limited Private Reserve “Diving Board” Prototype
Custom Designer: Andre Shmoldas, VP of Design

“This putter is something new to the world that no one has ever seen before,” said Jim Grundberg, CEO of the SeeMore Putting Co. “You won’t see it in stock anytime soon. It’s a one-off, a tour limited.”

Tech info: SeeMore recently secured the patent for the “diving board,” as the company calls it. Of course, someone already has the patent for the one that sits near the deep end of your local pool, and both are currently non-USGA conforming.

SeeMore’s putter does conform, however, if you take off the detachable aluminum diving board. When it’s attached, it serves the same purpose as the company’s conforming Rifle Scope Technology (RST), which helps golfers make a perfect, arcing stroke time after time, but makes the technology available for putter designs with traditional offset.

The one-off stainless steel putter was heat-treated and torched to achieve its honey-like finish, and its Argyle face design, which was created using the company’s diamond cut milling process, giving it a Scottish vibe.

There’s only 25 of these putters in existence, and each has a different finish to make every one of them truly one of a kind.

Time to vote

Which putter is your favorite?

  • Machine: Delta Proto-1 (50%, 1,274 Votes)
  • SeeMore: Diving Board (21%, 523 Votes)
  • Byron Morgan: The Roll Abides (15%, 375 Votes)
  • Kingston: Keep Calm and Chive On (14%, 370 Votes)

Total Voters: 2,542

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See what GolfWRX members are saying about these putters as well as dozens of additional photos in our forum.

Note: Each of these putters will be returned to their designers. We would have (really) loved to hold onto them, but it would be wrong to keep them from their rightful owners. 

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34 Comments

34 Comments

  1. Doug Sevier

    Aug 31, 2014 at 11:08 pm

    I love the Kingston KCCO putter. Would love to see how it feels, and would definitely bag it!

  2. David Smith

    Aug 31, 2014 at 8:35 pm

    I feel like I just threw up in my mouth… these are hideous!

  3. Stan

    Aug 31, 2014 at 1:37 pm

    I’m a huge Morgan fan but the Machine is hands down the winner in my humble opinion. The mod selection is incredible even if it’s not my preferred shape. I drool nightly over their Damascus M9 putter minus the $4000 price tag. If any rich, childless couples are looking to adopt a 38 year old son your prayers have been answered.

  4. John

    Aug 30, 2014 at 6:58 pm

    None of the above!!!

  5. Sean

    Aug 29, 2014 at 7:22 pm

    The Delta Proto-1 is a really beautiful putter.

  6. j.a.

    Aug 29, 2014 at 4:58 pm

    No matter than my favourite head style is the Kingston, in this post my attention went immediately to the Machine and the Byron.

    The Machine blew me away. That’s an incredible design, truly a custom putter that can be customised at any time. Dave Billings is thinking out of the box with this piece that looks out of this galaxy. It would be super interesting to try it and find out how it performs. Not sure about those stripes though, I’d prefer a simpler finish.

    The Byron is elegant, unique an minimalistic up to the extent that it doesn’t say it’s a Byron. I like the idea of using two materials with the heavier at the back as it increases the MOI. I guess that putts come “automatically” with this design.

  7. No one method

    Aug 29, 2014 at 12:42 am

    Isn’t the contest about being creative? Doing something new that the maker doesn’t normally do?

    Byron wins hands down. A completly HAND made all new model with all the modern day bells and whistles in an easy package.
    Two nice Anser heads and another pretty steam punked machined machine with a million parts.

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 12:09 pm

      Hi No one method, as I’ve posted below, I hope you can see I didn’t just focus on the head with this entry, although the head does contain brand new technologies nobody had seen when we submitted it, including the alloy morph spacer (allowing you to change the shape and depth of the head), and the Delta Mods in the hosel (allowing you to change the loft, lie and toe hang / face flow). The shaft and grip technologies are also totally new – first seen in public here. I hope you’ll see the creativity and ingenuity in these systems and innovations. I do love the Byron too – it reminds me somewhat of my old HOG 1004 with the architecture being very similar but the lines more square.

  8. Drew

    Aug 28, 2014 at 10:14 pm

    I am a Scotty Cameron collector and that Machine putter is fantastic. I love it when something with lots of modern features and interchangeable parts comes together so beautifully. I think a lot of people, especially golfers, don’t try newer equipment because it looks odd or too different and with looks and feel being so important in golf it IS something that matters. Great work and that is definitely something I would LOVE to give a roll.

    Second place to me goes to the Kingston. I am partial to the more traditional looking putters and even I get burnt out on seeing the same Anser style putters and looks. But when you pull it off this beautifully and make a great statement about the level of craftsmanship, people will notice. GREAT work, love the decision to keep it raw and let the milling shine, its beautiful, why cover it up with a finish? Great work.

    The See More is really well done too. It isn’t as striking to me but the removable diving board it cool. I was so glad when I read it was removable. I would definitely give it a roll.

    The Byron is the most ambitious and I think it looks pretty cool. It just seems to be slightly off? I thought that maybe a few small changes would make it more appealing. Knowing his craftsmanship I am sure it would roll it beautifully and I love the theme, but a few more touches and changes would be great.

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 12:04 pm

      Thanks Drew! Really appreciate it especially coming from a Scotty collector. Just wish he and some of the other makers had joined us in this fun project. Maybe next one!

  9. J.Jimenez

    Aug 28, 2014 at 10:03 pm

    Let be truly honest here:

    If originality is what this contest is about, Byron

    If we are looking for the best PING Anser based design, MACHINE .

    Winner, Byron

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 12:02 pm

      Thanks J. Respect your vote and opinion. I hope the new technologies in the neck, spacer and grip and shaft do qualify as being original – at least that’s what we tried to accomplish with this entry. I love all the other entries and could have voted for any of them too.

  10. Ed Robertson

    Aug 28, 2014 at 8:34 pm

    Machine is stunning. WOW! And, after putting with their putters for over a year now, nothing compares in feel and craftsmanship. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE!!!!!!!!!!!!

  11. Smitty

    Aug 28, 2014 at 7:13 pm

    Have to ask cuz it stands out to me, is that a steelfiber in the machine??

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 11:58 am

      Hi Smitty, yes, good eyes! That’s a Steelfiber proprietary putter flex shaft made for us by Aerotech. With a few modifications at the butt-end done in our in-house machine shop. 🙂

  12. slide13

    Aug 28, 2014 at 4:51 pm

    That Machine putter is sweet, really nice! I love Byron putters, play with a DH89 and wouldn’t trade it for anything, but the one above is just not my style and not as cool as the Machine. Hard to not vote Byron because I love his work, but with those 4 putters above, the Machine is where it’s at!

  13. Merty Huckle

    Aug 28, 2014 at 4:47 pm

    I feel like I’ve seen all the putters before except the idea Byron created. We have a Machine that looks like a Machine, and two Ping Ansers.

    Something new was the idea, right?

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 11:56 am

      Hi Merty, I hope you may have noticed the new Delta Mod Adjusters, the new Alloy Morph Spacer, and the new Delta Adjustable and Interchangeable grip and shaft technologies? All of these are brand new!

  14. Bob Halvorsen

    Aug 28, 2014 at 4:41 pm

    Their is a putter maker from Melbourne,Australia..Mr. Kari Lajosi..his putters blow all these makers away.

    • j.a.

      Aug 29, 2014 at 4:22 pm

      Oh yes! You are so right. Kari Lajosi deserved a spot here.

  15. West

    Aug 28, 2014 at 4:18 pm

    That dog on the Machine is pretty awesome!

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 11:50 am

      Thanks West – that’s our former family dog and mascot Birdie – she shagged balls for me when I was prototyping the very first HOG putter 20 years ago so she had to go into our logo. We engrave her on all heads now made in house in our machine shop here in Plano Texas (we moved from Dallas eight years ago). Birdie is now in doggie Heaven keeping everyone there happy and in stitches. Hopefully we are honoring her memory well.

  16. blink3665

    Aug 28, 2014 at 4:06 pm

    They are all fantastic putters. My vote goes to the Machine. The finish and look of that thing is gorgeous!

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 11:47 am

      Thanks Blink, so glad you like the finish on the Stainless Damascus – I actually used three different techniques – working to make the flanges match the head and hosel, but also tie in the colors from the Aerotech steelfiber shaft and the Aluminum HOG Grip.

  17. Zmangolf

    Aug 28, 2014 at 3:51 pm

    The Byron is the must see putter here..As usual..Byron is the winner!!!

  18. TR1PTIK

    Aug 28, 2014 at 3:46 pm

    The Machine Delta Proto-1 is definitely the most impressive of the bunch, but the Kingston and SeeMore putters have a great look as well. I especially like the fact that the “diving board” on the SeeMore is detachable so you have something to practice with, but a nice clean looking putter to game. The Roll Abides mallet putter by Byron just doesn’t do anything for me.

  19. Chad

    Aug 28, 2014 at 3:45 pm

    That Machine putter is insane.

  20. Albert Sewill

    Aug 28, 2014 at 3:31 pm

    BestGrips Silver Carbon Fiber Pistol Putter Grip with the Machine Delta-1 Proto. What what!

    • Dave Billings

      Aug 29, 2014 at 11:44 am

      @Albert Sewill, thanks for the awesome grip! Very proud to show it off with our new Delta interchangeable and adjustable grip and shaft technology!

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Equipment

What GolfWRXers are saying about the best “5-woods under $125”

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@golfexchangeapp

In our forums, our members have been discussing 5-woods, with WRXer ‘gary3aces’ looking for a 5-wood for between $100 and $125. He’s looking to replace his current “M2 5 wood with something a little easier to hit”, and our members have been discussing the best options in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • C6 Snowboarder: “Take a look at a used Callaway Heavenwood in the Epic Flash model = pretty Friggen sweet. It is Heaven!”
  • Golf64: “Bang for the buck, hard to beat Cobra, but find Ping one of the easiest to hit off the deck. Since you are limited in the funds dept., maybe an older model Ping 5W would do the trick?!”
  • tilasan1: “G400 7 wood turned down or just use it as is.”
  • jbandalo: “Fusion fairways. Highly underrated, cheap, easy to hit and go for miles.”
  • RyanBarathWRX: “PING G fairway would be hard to beat and easily in price range:
  • Nelson.br.1515: “Another vote for the Callaway Big Bertha Fusion. Great stick!”

Entire Thread: Best 5-woods under $125″

 

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What GolfWRXers are saying about “blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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In our forums, WRXer ‘ballywho27’ has asked for thoughts on combining his current Ping i500 irons with the brand’s Blueprint irons. ‘Ballywho27’ is considering going “i500 in 3-4 iron and blueprint 5-W” and has asked for fellow member’s thoughts on the idea – who have been sharing their takes in our forum.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • jblough99: “I had a combo set for a minute, 3-5 I500 and 6-PW Blueprint. I could not get used to the transition, HUGE difference in looks at address. If I had it to do over I would just go 4-PW Blueprint and maybe a 3 I500 with graphite shaft as a driving, iron.”
  • animalgolfs: “iBlade{5i} – BP{6i-pw}. That’s my combo.”
  • Chunky: “I have i500 4-5 and Blueprints 6-PW. As mentioned above, there is a significantly different look at address. More importantly for me, the i500s are 1/2 to 1 club longer than the BPs (they fly much higher, too). Make sure you account for that added i500 distance when blending lofts or you’ll have a large gap.”
  • howeber: “I’ve done that exact set — 3 and 4 i500 and 5-PW Blueprint. It’s perfect for me since the 3 and 4 are more like a traditional 2 and 3.5. 4 is usually the longest iron I carry, so I like a little extra oomph out of it. At the end of the day though, when I finally tested them vs my MP4s, the Blueprints performed identically, while the i500 launched a little higher (same specs same shafts). Mizzys are still in the bag.”

Entire Thread: “Blending Ping i500 irons with Blueprints”

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GolfWRX Vault: Avoid these 5 club building disasters

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It’s never too late to go back to basics, especially when it comes to club building.

Even with modern new club release cycles the do’s and don’ts of building clubs haven’t changed much in the last few decades except for clubs with adapter sleeves and greater amounts of multi-materials incorporated into the design.

With that in mind its time to revisit an article from the GolfWRX Vault from June 2016.

——————

I’ve been fitting and building golf clubs for more than 15 years, and in that time I’ve seen a lot of really poor workmanship—stuff that would make most GolfWRXers cringe. But like anyone who ever did anything new, I didn’t start being naturally good at putting together clubs. It took a lot of time, ruined components, and trial and error to get where I am today.

I believe my attention to detail now stems from the fact that my dad was a machinist by trade, and anytime we ever worked on something together his attitude was to take your time and do it right the first time. My dad’s approach always had an impact on me, because I feel that if you do something right — even when it takes a bit longer — the job is not only more satisfying but also makes things work better and last longer.

The goal with this article is to help WRXers avoid the most common mistakes and assumptions in club building that lead to broken or ruined clubs, as well as real danger.

Over-prepping a graphite shaft

The shaft on the left has been prepped properly. The one of the right, which has noticeable taper, shows signs that layers of graphite have been removed.

This happens far more than it should, and can ruin an expensive new shaft purchase. To prepare a shaft properly for installation, you only need to remove enough of the paint to make sure that the epoxy adheres to the graphite. This is also true for the inside of the hosel.

Be careful to remove residual epoxy, dirt or rust (common with forged carbon steel club heads that have been sitting around for a while), or some type or solvent like the one used to put on grips, as it can cause of bond to break down very quickly. A proper reaming tool, a wire brush and some compressed air (either a small can or a large air compressor) can make cleaning simple, and prevent a golf club from falling apart.

UPDATE: Over prepping specifically applies to shafts that are designed to go into parallel heads and is especially important for 335 shafts with less material at the tip going into drivers and fairway woods. For information on how to properly taper a shaft to go into a tapered head, check out the video below:

Overheating a Shaft When Pulling it

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated.

This is what happens to a graphite shaft when overheated, and the resin holding the graphite sheets together breaks down. It’s not always as noticeable, but if the shaft starts to fray it means the bonds have been compromised and it’s more likely to fail. 

Overheating a shaft when pulling it is another common mistake that can result in ruining a golf shaft. It also highly increases the chance of breakage. There are quite a few methods I’ve learned over the years to remove a shaft from a club head, from heat guns to large propane torches, but personally I find that using a small butane torch with a regulator for graphite offers the best results. It allows a club builder to easily control and focus the heat only where it’s needed. Bigger torches are fine for iron heads, as long as you don’t damage any plastic badges in the cavity or materials in slots around the head.

One of the best advances in club technology has been the invention and mass adoption of adjustable hosels. They not only help golfers adjust the loft, lie and face angle of club heads, but have also greatly decreased the need to pull shafts. So as long as a golfer is staying with the same metal wood manufacturer, they can usually test several different clubs heads with the same shaft, or vice versa — several different shafts with the same clubhead.

That being said, one of the most important tools that any hobbyist club builder should have or have access to is a high-quality shaft puller. It’s a necessary tool for anyone who wants to do repairs and helps prevent damage to a shaft while pulling it. The more linear pressure that can be applied to the clubhead, and the less heat used to break down the epoxy, the better. It makes sure both the shaft and the head are reusable in the future. For steel shafts, you can use a bit more heat, and twisting isn’t a problem. Again, with increased heat, be careful not to damage any of the badging, or permanently discolor an iron head.

Botching a Grip Installation

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

Using calipers and two-sided tape, you can replicate the taper of shafts to makes every grip feel exactly the same size in your set.

This one seems simple, but when really getting down to professional level detail, it is quite important. We ALL have a preference and different opinion of what feels good in a golf grip, as well as different sensitivities. For example, we all have the ability to figure out what apple is bigger, even if blindfolded because over time we all develop brain function to understand shapes and sizes. This also applies to grips. If you use the same grips on your 13 clubs, you could potentially have 4-5 different final sizes depending on how many different types of shafts you use, because many shafts have different butt diameters.

Some shafts have larger butt diameters, while others taper faster than others. That’s why it’s very important to own a quality set of vernier calipers, and know how to properly use them. It’s also the same for putters, since many putter shafts are smaller in diameter. I have lost count of how many times I’ve had people bring me, putters, where the bottom half of the grip is twisting and turning because the installer never paid attention to the interior diameter of the grip, the exterior diameter of the shaft, and how it changed from top to bottom.

Using epoxy that’s doomed to fail

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

An example of epoxy that although not completely set, is no longer safe for assembling clubs.

I’m a bit of a physics nerd and garage engineer, so this is one of those topics that goes beyond just the physical aspects of club building and into the realm of chemistry.

Here comes my nerd-out moment: In the simplest of explanations for a 0.335-inch driver hosel with an insertion depth of 1.25 inches, the amount of calculated surface area the epoxy can bond between the shaft and the head using the internal dimensions of the head is 1.49 square inches. That’s not a whole lot of area when you consider the centrifugal force being applied to a driver head traveling at 100 mph, and then the forces of torque that also come into play when a shot is struck.

In a PERFECT world, almost zero torque is applied to a shaft when a shot is hit on the center of gravity (CG) of the club head, perfectly aligned with the center mass of the ball, while traveling in the intended direction. This is vectors 101 of physics. Unfortunately, almost every single shot is NOT hit like that, and this is where the epoxy bond is put under the most amount of stress. Lap shear strength of epoxy goes beyond me, but it proves that building a golf club is not just cut and glue after all.

Note: For those of you curious, the most popular epoxies are rated for 4500 psi. 

As far are actually working with epoxy, first things first. Always check to see if the epoxy has a best-before date (yep, just like milk). Also, never store epoxy in direct sunlight. If you are using epoxy from a tube in a dispensing gun, you are using what is an almost foolproof method. Plunge out the necessary amount, mix for about a minute (mix! don’t whip), and remember, the less air that gets into the epoxy the better. If air gets in and the epoxy cures with bubbles in it, then you end up with a club that will often “creak.”

For those using two parts in larger bottles, the best way to ensure proper ratios is to pay attention to the weight ratio rather than volume. This isn’t arts and crafts; it’s chemistry, so by using the weight to calculate the ratio you will get the right amount of each part every time, and help decrease the risk of failure down the road. If you have mixed a larger batch and plan on building quite a few clubs at a time, you really have to pay attention to the consistency and viscosity as time goes on. You don’t want to glue a club head with epoxy that has started to set.

Turning an Extension into a Shank

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

The difference between a good shaft extension (bottom) and a bad one.

This is one of those subjects I don’t even like to talk about. I very much dislike using extensions when building clubs, especially clubs with graphite shafts. Going back to my “do-it-right-the-first-time” mentality, extensions are a Band-Aid fix to a problem that requires surgery. They also counter-balance the club, and by their very nature create a weak point because of the small wall thickness at the butt end of a shaft. The only clubs I don’t mind extending on a regular basis are putters since they are never put under the same level of stress as a club being swung at full speed. I also never extend a club more than 1 inch, because I have been witness to horror stories of clubs that have been overextended that not only break but rip through the grip and cut people’s hands very badly.

If you are going to extend a club, it’s important to make sure the fit is very snug and doesn’t cause the extension to lean in any direction. It’s also best to have the epoxied extension cure with the club on its side to avoid an excess epoxy from running down the shaft and breaking off and causing a rattle.

 

 

 

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