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Tiger Woods TrackMan Numbers from Quail Hollow

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Check these babies out.  They’re in metric so here’s the conversion:

53 m/s=118 mph club speed
78.5 m/s=175 mph ball speed

CLICK HERE TO READ WHAT OTHERS ARE SAYING IN THE FORUMS.

 

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Rob is a golf junkie that has been involved with GolfWRX since its inception in 2005. From designing headcovers, to creating logos to authoring articles to social media management to sales and marketing, Rob has done it all. Born and bred in NJ. Favorite golfers: Phil, Freddie. Favorite club: Driver.

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Equipment

Forum Thread of the Day: “New set of irons on a budget of $500-$700?”

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Today’s Forum Thread of the Day comes from GarhawlR who is on the hunt for a new set of irons and is looking for suggestions on how to get the best bang for his buck with a budget of between $500 and $700. Our members disclose their advice for how to go about filling your bag if you’re on a budget.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • rgk5: “Pre-owned Srixon 585 or Wilson Staff W6 will fit the budget. Maltby irons are okay but will have virtually no resale value down the road.”
  • PushDrawFlush: “$500-700 is plenty to find new-to-me forged irons. I’d keep an eye out for some Srixon z745/765 if you want something similar to your MP25s but a little chunkier/more forgiving.”
  • T.B: “Sub 70 and hogans. Maltby makes great clubs. You have a lot of options at that price range. Take your time, and you’ll find something you really want.”
  • revenant: “You should be able to do this without much trouble. My MP-4s (3-PW) were $280 from global golf with minimal face wear (good grooves and no rust/wear spots).”

Entire Thread: “New set of irons on a budget of $500-$700”

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Equipment

Forum Thread of the Day: “How do you go about choosing a 3-wood?”

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Today’s Forum Thread of the Day comes from kcd38 who opens the discussion regarding WRXers approach to choosing a 3-wood. Our members discuss what they want from a 3-wood and how their driver often plays a pivotal role in deciding what they need and want from their 3-metal.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • HappyGilmore22: “I bought a 3-wood based on whichever low spin combo I could get the best value out of because I’ve tested ten 3-woods and can’t decide between any of them. Went with TS3 and stock shaft in an 80-gram weight class with x-flex, added bonus they fit for the proper swing weight I like. The M5 was my favorite, but with the correct shaft and specs it would have run me over $700, and I wasn’t about to be paying that for a 3-wood that I rarely hit when my $300 one is just as good.
  • Yuck: “3-woods are tough to get one you like under all conditions. I have had 3 of them over the last 40+ years. A Macgregor persimmon from the late 70s till early 90’s. A TM burner bubble tour spoon from the early 90, till 2004. And a TEE CB 2, still in my bag for the last 15 years.”
  • RichieHunt: “I go to a fitter that has a lot of club head options. I find it difficult to get a good 3-wood because they are not easy to hit well and they usually either go long, but suck to hit off the deck, or they hit off the deck well, but don’t go as long as I would like. So that’s why I try to get as many head options as I can to find the best one for me. Then I go to Fujikura and get fitted for a shaft. I also find that 3-wood heads wear down much more quickly than driver heads. So you finally get a head you like and after a short while it’s not performing like it once did, and the new model heads come in.”
  • AG12: “I’ve found for me that when trying to find the right amount of spin and height I got with a mid-low launch/low spin shaft in the brand’s more forgiving head if they have two (M4 over M3, TS2 over TS3, Flash over Sub Zero) and it seems to be a good recipe for launch, forgiveness and stopping power.”

Entire Thread: “How do you go about choosing a 3-wood?” 

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Equipment

Forum Thread of the Day: “Set gap wedge vs specialist gap wedge”

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Today’s Forum Thread of the Day comes from clemsontiger1 who asks fellow members what they feel are the advantages and disadvantages of playing a “gap wedge that matches your iron set vs a Vokey type wedge”. Our members share their thoughts on the subject, with many drawing from experience.

Here are a few posts from the thread, but make sure to check out the entire discussion and have your say at the link below.

  • kcd38: “I had a Vokey type gap wedge up until I got my i210’s. I really only used my 51-degree Vokey for full swings anyway, so the i210 U wedge gives me more forgiveness and consistency from 120 yards. I have also loved using it around the green to chip to back/uphill pin locations. The only drawback I can see is being able to rip shots back on the green, but the U wedge gives me plenty of spin to control the ball and hold greens.”
  • Albatross85: “Played a Vokey 50* for last five years and always felt like I got punished on slight mis-strikes. I recently switched to a Set GW at 50* and kept the same shaft that I play in my irons, and it’s been amazing how much more confident I am with it. Actually made an ace with it a few weeks back!”
  • Celbros: “I much prefer a set Gap Wedge. It is strictly a full-swing club for me for what it’s worth.”
  • jokerusn: “I go all the way to PW with my Vokey wedges. I like to hit 1/2, 3/4, knockdowns, pitches, sand shots, etc. with all of them and the PW in my set has a really wide sole compared to the rest of the set. I like the extra spin I get from the Vokey wedges around the green.”

Entire Thread: “Set Gap Wedge vs Specialist gap wedge”

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